Battery To Cab Wiring

[AeroNautical]

I need to run a direct feed from the battery into the cab. I know where to route it, my questions are what gauge wire should I use? Any particular sheathing? What inline fuse should I use? I was hoping at the cab side of things I'd have a stud with a nut to secure the connections down, what would be the best way to do this, or is there a better way you guys could recommend. This isn't something I want half assed, I want it correct, and safe. Initially, the only connections I'll have on it are my CB, fog lights and 12V plug. Maybe some pictures with your setups? Thanks. 

[coyote kid]

I used a old extension cord for a battery terminal I spliced the 3 inside wires together and it works fine even turning over the starter

[yxmj]

Never done it ......but

 

My son just picked up a XJ were the PO had more stero than truck.... :doh: .......one of those thumpers that you hear when they pull up at a stoplight... :rock on:

 

They had a run of 02 straight back from the battery to under the seat for there amp. So i would look at a stereo shop for wire and connectors and fuses......the only other thing I would add is a big relay?solenoid? that was hooked to the fuse box so that you could shut it down with the ignition and not kill the battery

[Eagle]

I need to run a direct feed from the battery into the cab. I know where to route it, my questions are what gauge wire should I use? Any particular sheathing? What inline fuse should I use? I was hoping at the cab side of things I'd have a stud with a nut to secure the connections down, what would be the best way to do this, or is there a better way you guys could recommend. This isn't something I want half assed, I want it correct, and safe. Initially, the only connections I'll have on it are my CB, fog lights and 12V plug. Maybe some pictures with your setups? Thanks. 

 

What wattage are the fog lights, and how many of them will there be? The CB isn't a heavy draw, but lights can be. And the draw on a power outlet will depend on what you plug into it. Since you don't know what the total draw is going to be, IMHO you need the heaviest wire you can get. I'd run no smaller than 10-gauge -- maybe even 8-gauge.

 

And why would you run the fog lights off a tap inside the cab? You're increasing the length of the wire run, which increases the voltage drop in the wiring. You'll still need a relay somewhere between the lights and the switch. It's much better to locate the relay under the hood, keep the heavy-duty wire runs as short as possible, and then run only the relay "trigger" wires to a switch inside the cabin.

[AeroNautical]

My mistake, they are handheld spotlights that run off 12v. You say run 10 gauge because of the variable draw from the 12v outlet, so that's what I'll run. What about the fuse and the connection on the cab side? Trying to get ideas to what would work best.

[Wrz]

i can take some pictures of my setup in a little while, i ran 4 gauge from my battery to the inside kick panel where i have a fuse box set up, makes it easier to add things on down the road, I currently have it powering my 2 fog lights, 2 gauges, electric fan, and my future heated seats

[Eagle]

My mistake, they are handheld spotlights that run off 12v. You say run 10 gauge because of the variable draw from the 12v outlet, so that's what I'll run. What about the fuse and the connection on the cab side? Trying to get ideas to what would work best.

 

Try a 20-amp fuse for starters.

[AeroNautical]

I went ahead and did what yxmj recommended, bought an amp wire kit. Came with 16ft of 8 gauge, a pre spliced 50 amp fuse (too high?), a generous amount of 8 gauge grounding wire, and all the crimp connections I need, all for cheaper than if I pieced it together at an auto parts store or wally world. Thanks for the help.

 

WRZ: Could you snap a picture of the fuse box you have in your cab? What I have now will work temporarily, but I need a more permanent means of power distribution. 

[Jeep Driver]

[AeroNautical]

Huh, that's nice and simple. Where did you get that fuse block?

[Eagle]

I went ahead and did what yxmj recommended, bought an amp wire kit. Came with 16ft of 8 gauge, a pre spliced 50 amp fuse (too high?), a generous amount of 8 gauge grounding wire, and all the crimp connections I need, all for cheaper than if I pieced it together at an auto parts store or wally world. Thanks for the help.

 

WRZ: Could you snap a picture of the fuse box you have in your cab? What I have now will work temporarily, but I need a more permanent means of power distribution. 

 

The general rule for house wiring is 15 amps for 14-gauge wire, 20 amps for 12-gauge wire, 30 amps for 10-gauge wire, and 40 amps for 8-gauge wire. Ampacity is ampacity, so I have always believed that this also applies to DC wiring. %0 amps sounds like a heavy fuse for anything. If you had enough "stuff" on that circuit to be drawing 48 amps, even if the fuse didn't blow I'd be concerned that other things might be happening. Can you reduce the fuse to 40 or 30 amps?

 

In general, fuses are to protect against both short circuits and overloads. A short circuit will blow any fuse (but you want the fuse to blow before it overheats the wires and melts the insulation). An overload, on the other hand, just heats everything up until the rating of the fuse is exceeded. It's usually not a good idea to run a fuse larger than what's needed for the total load on the circuit (plus maybe 10 percent as a safety factor).

[Jeep Driver]

OReilly for the block.

 

 

 

Look here- http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-GAUGE-WIRE-40-FT-AWG-20-FT-RED-20-BLACK-CABLE-SUPER-FLEXIBLE-PRIMARY-STRANDED-/281083799724

 

 

Can't beat that deal on wire for Amps and the like.

 

I'm looking to run primary wire back to hitch to run the wench I have on the trailer........may look to 4 gauge and also install a jumper jack at the rear.

[Jeep Driver]

I went ahead and did what yxmj recommended, bought an amp wire kit. Came with 16ft of 8 gauge, a pre spliced 50 amp fuse (too high?), a generous amount of 8 gauge grounding wire, and all the crimp connections I need, all for cheaper than if I pieced it together at an auto parts store or wally world. Thanks for the help.

 

WRZ: Could you snap a picture of the fuse box you have in your cab? What I have now will work temporarily, but I need a more permanent means of power distribution. 

 

 

Are you wiring an amp?

 

 

Years ago I bought a high end sound system for my Ranger and had it 'professionally' installed. The installer grounded the amp to the cab floor, three times over the years I lost ground and had to reground the amp.

I intend at some point to reinstall the amp and speakers in the MJ. I will run the 8g wire from the block pictured above, that is also why I installed the ground block next to it, the amp will have a direct ground.

 

Ground all your electronics and lights...etc..to the battery directly, do NOT use the body as a ground.

 

Also note that the longer the run the larger the gauge of wire needed do to current drop.

 

If you can, keep all relays near the source (battery) and keep you primaries as short as possible.........you can run 16g wire as triggers inside the cab and they can be as long as you need them.