My '88 Mj Streetable Autocross / Road Racer Build

[yellaheep]

No opinions on the steering set up huh?

 

 

 

Got the new tires on.  245/50/16 BFG G-Force Sport Comp-2.

 

Needed a new battery too after it's 2 year slumber in storage.

 

Alignment tomorrow.

 

Gotta replace a leaking t-stat housing gasket, a temperamental TPS that is causing hesitation and surging on acceleration from idle, install the cold air intake I have for it, then see what all else it's gonna need to be a reliable driver.  I'll work on actual race mods sometime after it's driving good and reliably. 

 

[DirtyComanche]

I have zero relevant experience in street applications.  And as a disclaimer I'm on some net-nanny'd internet connection so about 50% of images are blocked, leaving me in the dark a lot of the time.

 

But I would not buy stock replacement steering components.  My first thought was to buy the aluminum steering kit that was offered by TNT(?),  which is still listed on their website under another brand for $740.  Apparently my first thought was a bad one, since that price is totally unacceptable and it converts to an inverted T setup which is not what you want. 

 

I do think you're on the right track with the WJ knuckle, but you're going to have to do your own figuring to tell if everything will clear in a happy fashion.

 

I'm guessing 1/2" heims and some 1x.188 or 1x/.250 DOM tubing and inserts would work fine for what you want to do.  I'd try to find heims with a lined race as they should not wear as quick.  Granted, I do not know what is common for steering on street applications, so my material choice might be a bit excessive, the factory tie rod is really small/thin junk.

 

Since you're going to heims anyways, I would also use them for the track bar.  If you do to the WJ knuckle the factory MJ/XJ setup isn't right anyways.  If you're willing to weld stuff to your unibody, I would just weld a new bracket on using all appropriate welding practices.  If you are not, I would build a similar bracket to the factory one that bolts on, but I would suggest making it a bit larger and tying it into the factory tow hook hole.  Also, if you move it forwards a bit (direction of the tow hook hole that you should also pick up on) it will alleviate some of the issues with clearance on the diff.  I would recommend making the axle end as high as possible given clearance limitations and while keeping it somewhere that the geometry will be correct in regards to bumpsteer, move the unibody end as high as possible for this to work.  The higher the track bar the higher the roll center is, which produces stability as it effectively fights the vehicle wanting to roll, with the disclaimer that the higher the roll center the more sudden it unloads in the event you pull a tire and start to roll over.  Then bend the tubing so it fit, as it is unlikely to clear the oil pan otherwise.  I'd use the same material and heims as the steering.

[yellaheep]

And sold! Suspension returned to stock and it's now the new owner's daily driver while he builds a rock rig XJ.

 

It's replacement: 2001 Dakota 4x4 quad cab. 1 owner, 5.9, auto, 3" body lift, brand new 31's, MagnaFlow cat back, Jet chip, cold air intake, throttle body spacer, recent brakes, rear air bags, Kenwood stereo system, rebuilt trans with modded valve body, meticulous service history. Near perfect interior, Super straight body, bad paint, 238k miles, salvage title due to a light hit to the left front lca bracket. All for $2,000.

 

[DirtyComanche]

That's disappointing.  I liked the concept.  If my LWB hadn't been crushed by a tree I would really consider building it into a street truck.

[johnj92131]

Well, it should be a better tow vehicle than the Comanche for a heavy load.  Kind of the same reason I would consider a Toyota Tundra as a tow vehicle.  Guess as long as the a/c works fine, black is not all that bad a color.