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Posted

nooooo you can't do that. its not that hard to pull the axles once you take the cover off, BUT they do make C clip eliminator kits from ford racing for them.

 

welding steel tubes to the CAST housing will be quite difficult....

Posted
nooooo you can't do that. its not that hard to pull the axles once you take the cover off, BUT they do make C clip eliminator kits from ford racing for them.

 

welding steel tubes to the CAST housing will be quite difficult....

 

it's been done many times, it's a cast steel not a cast iron.

The factory just used some stamped plugs to keep the tubes from twisting.

 

it needs to be welded. Many have done it no problems with just a MIG.

Posted

I thought they're cast nodular iron.

 

 

Actually, I'm really sure they are.

 

 

 

Either way you CAN weld it with a MIG. That doesn't mean you SHOULD. At least not using your typical mild steel wire.

Posted

Preheat, use nickel rod, cool slowly, good to go.

 

you have to weld the tubes to the center section on these diffs. I've seen two personally and seen dozens of pictures of spun tubes. Big tires and decent traction will break those little factory welds in no time.

 

It's an easy and quick process. :cheers:

Posted

actually they weren't welded to begin with.

Ford in their infinite wisdom just used some plugs they punched into the tube.

 

Oh well, welding it isn't a big deal, and it's still a hella stout axle.

Posted

yea i figured id only run 35s or 36s so i don't think id have to weld em.. but i guess it would help to be sure they don't spit a shaft if ever i do break one

Posted

Here is the deal on welding the tubes to the axle, I have personally done 3 with no failures.

 

You need to really clean it first

 

I like to pull the ring gear out (makes it easier to lincoln lock that as wel)

 

Then i take my propane torch out and pre heat the center chunk, you can buy preheat crayons at a welding supply store to ensure you hit the correct temp you want about 300

 

Then I make small 1-2" passes moving 180* degrees away from the last weld, until welded all the way around. Then I do a complete cover pass. Repeat for the other side

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