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Another Headlight Issue - 89 Comanche


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I searched the forums, and tried everything.. no luck yet. Here's what's happening:

 

1989 Comanche Eliminator, 4.0, auto, short bed, converted to 4wd (using Cherokee parts!)

 

Turn on headlight switch: I get parking lights, tail lights, and dash lights.. but no headlights.

 

I unplugged the headlights, ran a lead from battery to lights to test them, lights are good (high and low beam).

 

I test the headlight switch - turns out to be bad. I swap out switch, test it to make sure it's good, and turn on the lights - same issue. Parking lights/tail lights/dash lights on, no headlights.

 

I pull the dimmer switch (off of column) and replace with a known good one (off my parts truck!) - same issue. I get Parking lights/tail lights/dash lights, but no headlights.

 

When I pull the dimmer in, I do have bright (flash-to-pass) lights.. but no headlights when I release the switch

 

Next steps - pull and clean the 10 pin connector behind the left headlight, and running a better ground from under the dash to the E-brake area

 

Any idea what else I should try? Craigslist is starting to look good..

 

 

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Took apart the 10-pin connector, it was a little corroded. Cleaned it up, checked it with my test light - there is power at 2 spots.

 

Re-assembled, no difference: Parking lights/dash lights/tail lights all work.. no headlights.

 

Ran a better ground - no difference

 

next step: can of gas and a zippo?

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What does that have to do with whether power is getting to the switch?

 

Did you read that he has head lamps when he hits "Flash-to-Pass"? That means he has power to the dimmer switch.

That requires READING before RESPONDING. No wonder he missed it.......

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What does that have to do with whether power is getting to the switch?

 

Did you read that he has head lamps when he hits "Flash-to-Pass"? That means he has power to the dimmer switch.

 

The both of you fail at diagram reading then. There is another contact inside the signal switch that bypasses the high beam switch. It's there in case the HB switch blows so you can see to get to the shoulder of the road.

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What does that have to do with whether power is getting to the switch?

 

Did you read that he has head lamps when he hits "Flash-to-Pass"? That means he has power to the dimmer switch.

 

The both of you fail at diagram reading then. There is another contact inside the signal switch that bypasses the high beam switch. It's there in case the HB switch blows so you can see to get to the shoulder of the road.

Right.............................

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The both of you fail at diagram reading then. There is another contact inside the signal switch that bypasses the high beam switch. It's there in case the HB switch blows so you can see to get to the shoulder of the road.

 

The signal switch?   :huh???: 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Disassembled and cleaned the C100 connector, and used an old dental pick to snug up the female ends. Still no luck. I hooked up a set of driving lights as a temporary fix.

 

Something interesting to note: When I was re-inserting the headlight pull into the switch, it sparked. Hmm. Makes me think it's a grounding issue..?

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Disassembled and cleaned the C100 connector, and used an old dental pick to snug up the female ends. Still no luck. I hooked up a set of driving lights as a temporary fix.

 

Something interesting to note: When I was re-inserting the headlight pull into the switch, it sparked. Hmm. Makes me think it's a grounding issue..?

 

Grounding? The only ground involved for the headlights is forward at the lights themselves -- the ground connection behind the driver's side headlight bucket. If the headlights work when you flash the high beams, then the lights have ground. Your problem is somewhere in the power supply circuit upstream of the headlights.

 

You can verify whether or not there's power to the headlights by removing one headlamp, turning on the headlights, and using a tester between the headlight socket and a known good ground to confirm whether or not you're getting power to the socket. Assuming you're not, then you start working back upstream along the power circuit until you find the point where there is power.

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