1988 Comanche - First Jeep.

[Megadan]

Hi guys and gals, my name is Dan.  Not my first rodeo with wrenching, but it is my first rodeo with Jeeps. I ended up buying mine, a 1988 4x4 4.0L long bed off of a friend just 3 weeks after he traded with the previous owner for his beat up old Crown Vic.  We both got the better end of the deal really, as I have been wanting to get a truck to haul around parts and such for my other project car and the various other times I always wish I had a truck anyway.  Since photobucket is down, I will have to stick with a description for now, but I will try to get some up later today.

The Good:  The body and chassis are solid and devoid of any rot.  The long block is in excellent health - Compression tested 152-146 across all 6 cylinders.  The wiring seems fairly intact, and the main positive leads, as well as all of the grounds have been upped in size.  Somebody swapped out for axles from a 3.55 equipped Truck, and installed a limited slip out back.  The steering is all in good shape, nice and tight.

 

The Bad: Remember that scene from Ghostbusters when Ray details the list of everything the Hearse needed?  Here is my version.  Front control arm bushings are shot, Track bar is bad, Does not fast idle on a cold start, and idle surges when warmed up.  Also likes to stutter and backfire at light throttle around 1900-2000rpm once it is warmed up. Exhaust manifold is cracked (no surprise there) and it is actually missing a couple of bolts on the manifolds as well. Rear main seal is leaky. Radiator is showing corrosion and signs of small leaks in 3 spots. The body is surface rusted in a lot of small places thanks to the previous-previous owner rattle canning it and then sanding it to get a fake patina effect, and thus sanding down almost every corner on the body down to bare metal.  The floor is surface rusted and worn down to metal by the same owner ripping out the carpet and not using any sort of floor mat.  It has a few wiring gremlins to chase down - reverse lights don't work, interior lights don't work, etc.  The parking brake also doesn't work, although I feel tension on the springs when the lever is depressed with my foot.  The drivers seat is broken, it doesn't want to recline forward at all, and it leans to the left.  The center console is only held in by the front mounting screws, so it only creates a lot of noise.  It's also unbearably and obnoxiously loud thanks to the manifold leak and the lack of a cat combined with the worlds smallest flowmaster muffler.  The hood doesn't stay level once i's closed - the rear left corner sits higher by 1/4" than the fender and cowl. I know I am forgetting things...

The Ugly:  BA-10 transmission's input shaft is on it's last leg, so it's going to go bye bye and instead be replaced with an AX-15.

 

On the upside, I have already sourced and ordered the Corssmember from a 1992 Comanche, and I am going to go look at an 89 Cherokee that a friend of a friend is scrapping to see if it has the AX-15, or if it is still one of the BA-10s.  If not, I know other good sources for the parts I need.  My basic plan is to get it road worthy and running well and then work on the body stuff after this winter. I will try to get up some pics later on today.

[onlyinajeep726]

First off, welcome to the forum!

 

If you're able to find '94+ AX-15, I'd recommend that if you're going to do a swap.  Slave cylinder on those are external so you don't have to drop the tranny when the slave fails. Just some food for thought.

[Megadan]

First off, welcome to the forum!

 

If you're able to find '94+ AX-15, I'd recommend that if you're going to do a swap.  Slave cylinder on those are external so you don't have to drop the tranny when the slave fails. Just some food for thought.

Thank you!  I actually would prefer to get a 94+ setup for the truck, but at this point my budget is somewhat tight so it is also a matter of take what I can get too.  If I can buy a whole 89 Cherokee for $300 with a complete working setup already on it, and just throw a few bucks at it for new input and output seals and a new slave cylinder then I am going to go that route.  I am not afraid of internal slave setups as I have owned more than one in other vehicles in the past.  They have never given me a problem in many years of service, but the lesson that you get what you pay for really rings true.  I am very picky on who I buy those types of parts from, and prefer to get new instead of rebuilt.  It's all a moot point until I go look at that Cherokee though, because it may well just have the BA-10 in it. 

 

Since photobucket is back up again, here are a few shots of the truck in all of it's ugly duckling glory.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Megadan]

Well, the Cherokee was a bust.  It had the le-trans in it too.  The guy did let me take the OEM turn signal housings and one good corner light with surround bezels for free though, so I didn't walk away empty handed.  Now I just need one more corner light to get rid of those cheap e-bay ones that have yellowed.

 

First noob question.  Any good information on speedo drive gears?  My speedo is reading low because of the 3.55 gears and stock tire diameter.   At 1600rpm in 4th gear I read 45mph, but GPS (and my friend following me) both said I was doing 39-40, which makes sense since the truck was geared down.

I do have another noob question, and I have tried searching for it with little actual results.  Is there a diagram or good write-up somewhere on how to do the headlight wiring harness/relay setup to get more voltage to the bulbs?  I understand the concept well as I did it to my crown vic a couple of years ago, but the way that car was setup I only had to use one headlight plug to run the relays.  I know that IPF makes a harness to do it, and it's not too expensive, but I am not afraid of wiring, and I can get those parts really cheap, so I figure why not do it myself.  Thanks for any input you might have.

[Megadan]

Well, I figured out the drive gears finally with a little more searching. I have to switch to a 34 tooth unit.  I have also somewhat figured out my own diagram for the headlight relay setup as well.  Since I just ordered half of Rock Autos inventory, and a few other goodies form summit I have to play the waiting game now.

Another question that I am having the most trouble with getting answered. Is there a polyurethane transmission mount that can be used on my truck with the AX-15 and the AX-15 crossmember I am getting in mentioned above?  I would have assumed any XJ mount would work, but every fitment chart says to the contrary, even for an AX15 equipped Comanche.  I don't get it.

[onlyinajeep726]

Well, I figured out the drive gears finally with a little more searching. I have to switch to a 34 tooth unit.  I have also somewhat figured out my own diagram for the headlight relay setup as well.  Since I just ordered half of Rock Autos inventory, and a few other goodies form summit I have to play the waiting game now.

 

Another question that I am having the most trouble with getting answered. Is there a polyurethane transmission mount that can be used on my truck with the AX-15 and the AX-15 crossmember I am getting in mentioned above?  I would have assumed any XJ mount would work, but every fitment chart says to the contrary, even for an AX15 equipped Comanche.  I don't get it.

 

Daystar makes one I believe and it shouldn't matter if its for an XJ or MJ... An AX15 is an AX15.  Most of those aftermarket sites usually overlook our MJ models...

 

http://www.quadratec.com/products/76058_831.htm

http://www.amazon.com/Daystar-KJ01010BK-Transmission-Mount-Engine/dp/B003EOX83K

[Megadan]

 

Well, I figured out the drive gears finally with a little more searching. I have to switch to a 34 tooth unit.  I have also somewhat figured out my own diagram for the headlight relay setup as well.  Since I just ordered half of Rock Autos inventory, and a few other goodies form summit I have to play the waiting game now.

 

Another question that I am having the most trouble with getting answered. Is there a polyurethane transmission mount that can be used on my truck with the AX-15 and the AX-15 crossmember I am getting in mentioned above?  I would have assumed any XJ mount would work, but every fitment chart says to the contrary, even for an AX15 equipped Comanche.  I don't get it.

 

Daystar makes one I believe and it shouldn't matter if its for an XJ or MJ... An AX15 is an AX15.  Most of those aftermarket sites usually overlook our MJ models...

 

http://www.quadratec.com/products/76058_831.htm

http://www.amazon.com/Daystar-KJ01010BK-Transmission-Mount-Engine/dp/B003EOX83K

I figured that's what it was, but I wanted some verification.  Thank you.   What confuses me is the way they are listed and some information I found.  Guys with early 90s XJ's with the 4.0 AX-15 4x4 running this mount, but it being listed as a 2.5L Automatic.  So either Daystar is confused itself, or I am... http://www.amazon.com/Daystar-KJ01007BK-Transmission-Automatic-Engine/dp/B003EP13X6/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

 

The UPS and USPS guys are going to love or hate me by the end of next week after they have been to my house every single day lol

[Megadan]

Empty Post

[knever3]

Looks great, nice job!

[Megadan]

Thanks.  Anybody happen to know if there is a good page/pdf/etc of the Vacuum and EGR systems?  Somebody converted this to the newer valvecover and has done some other work.  I need to verify that their EGR block off was done properly, as well as figure out this rouge vacuum hose that goes through the firewall with the HVAC system.  I am finding more and more half-assed jobs as I dig into this thing, and I want to sort it all out while I am fiddling around under the hood.  Like the aftermarket tach that is hose clamped to my steering column, with the backlight wired directly into the underhood fuse block off of the ignition circuit.  :doh: 

[hick92]

Halfassed jobs are the joys of owning a pre owned Jeep

[onlyinajeep726]

That vacuum elbow you're holding goes to the heater hose control diaphragm.  It opens/closes the hoses that runs to your heater core so you can have heat.  If the line is disconnected (like yours) the diaphragm stays open and allows coolant to flow through the heater core all the time.  Nothing wrong with that (late model XJ's don't even have the valve).  I can take a picture if need be.

[Megadan]

That vacuum elbow you're holding goes to the heater hose control diaphragm.  It opens/closes the hoses that runs to your heater core so you can have heat.  If the line is disconnected (like yours) the diaphragm stays open and allows coolant to flow through the heater core all the time.  Nothing wrong with that (late model XJ's don't even have the valve).  I can take a picture if need be.

Would it affect the effectiveness of the Air conditioning system?  If yes, I would like to figure it out.  I know on my Crown Vic, if it's valve stays open, the AC system never blows fully cold.

 

On a different note, since my new trans should be arriving sometime next week, I hope at least, Is there a good source for the studs that mate the transfer case to the transmission? 3 of them were sized up with the nuts, and the others are really corroded and not worth using.  I could easily just go get some studs or threaded rod of the same thread type, but I have always liked factory style studs with a shoulder/shank in the middle if I can get them.  I plan on replacing all of the hardware with new stuff as I go through this thing, and most of it is fairly simple and straight forward to figure out or find, but I couldn't find any info on those studs in particular.

 

Thanks for the help guys.  I have done a lot of searching and digging to find a lot of the info that I need, but I still come up short sometimes.  I guess on the upside, I finally get to use all of my torx sockets and drives as well as my rarely used standard wrenches and sockets now lol.  

[hick92]

Standard my mj always angers me cause the bolts are all metric and all I have is standard and I always half to buy the right size

[Megadan]

Well, now that I have room in the other half of my garage, I can get this stupid transmission taken care of.  Weekend Project!  BTW, yes I know the shifter has to come off.  I just put it on there to keep crap from going into the transmission until I can get it up under the truck, and I couldn't find my roll of duct tape.  With a lot of the fab work I am doing for my Isuzu, there is a lot of metal dust and shavings lingering about, even with proper cleanup (also the reason I laid an old shirt over my welding table in that pic).

 

Trying to defrost my truck so it doesn't drip on me tomorrow when I start working on it. Once my new exhaust header shows up I can put my engine bay back together. Aside from the long block and AC compressor, I have damn near replaced everything else.  Map Sensor nipple was cracked at the base - I finished it off when I was removing the hose end. Alternator had a bad bearing, PS pump had a leak on the shaft seal.  Water pump was leaking through the weep hole.  T-stat housing was cracked. Radiator had a few small pinholes, and a crack at the inlet tube. I threw on all new hoses for good measure to kind of just round out my entirely new cooling system...  I just need to finish up some of the wiring stuff as well, but once that new trans is in I am pretty much at the tail end of the reliability restoration.  Throwing on a new CLT Temp sensor and CAS while I am at it to just round it all off.  All new fuel injectors are going in as well.  When I pulled the plugs I could see signs of inconsistent fueling in each cylinder, as well as the clear spray pattern from the injectors being way off, especially on 2 cylinders, causing them to be super lean.  That and for $96 for all 6 injectors (love some sales) I couldn't refuse.  I also replaced the valve cover gasket, because it was leaking from pretty much ever direction imaginable.  Makes it hard to tell if I have other leaks.  Luckily when I pulled the head I could see that the motor has at least had regular oil changes.  Very little build up to be found.

[onlyinajeep726]

Would it affect the effectiveness of the Air conditioning system?  If yes, I would like to figure it out.  I know on my Crown Vic, if it's valve stays open, the AC system never blows fully cold.

 

Not that I know of. The HVAC box has baffles that open and close depending on if you want heat or A/C.  With that said, if you're operating the A/C, the heater core is blocked off and air flow is redirected to only blow across the A/C core and vice versa.

[Megadan]

So while disconnecting the rear U-joint shackles, which weren't even finger tight I noticed I have two broken leafs. Just ordered new leaf springs for the wallet bending price of $366 .  At least they had a little discount that nearly covered the shipping.  Might as well throw new rear shocks on too.  

I also discovered that only 3 of the 4 bolts that hold on the transmission crossmember were in place, the other got broken off, but as I understand it, I have to move the new one rearward anyway.  I also get to go deaf tonight as I grind and cut off the 4 cat flange bolts that are so corroded you can't get any sort of wrench to work.  Otherwise, it's all going rather well.  Trans should be out tonight after I get home from work.

[dave92cherokee]

 

Would it affect the effectiveness of the Air conditioning system?  If yes, I would like to figure it out.  I know on my Crown Vic, if it's valve stays open, the AC system never blows fully cold.

 

Not that I know of. The HVAC box has baffles that open and close depending on if you want heat or A/C.  With that said, if you're operating the A/C, the heater core is blocked off and air flow is redirected to only blow across the A/C core and vice versa.

I'm not sure about the 97+ but i know on the HO models which are the same as the renix, the hvac ductwork behind the dash isn't setup like that. The baffles inside only direct the air to the proper vent. When working on the quad cab i replaced the heater core and a/c and they both sit directly beside each other. So if the heater core has heated coolant running through it then the cold air from the a/c will warm up as it passes through the heater core.

[Megadan]

Well, I keep going and keep finding more stuff to replace.  I have to pull the cylinder head and try to rescue the two outer most exhaust bolt holes. Once I got the exhaust manifold off I saw that the rear one is broken off flush, and the front one is already drilled out and looks like it was once tapped for a helicoil.  There is a local machine company that does head rebuild exchange stuff and has a couple of 2686 casting heads on a shelf and the guy said he would cut me a deal just to get one out the door.  I am assuming they have been sitting there for a while lol.  $200 out the door with no core exchange - so I think I am going to just go with a rebuilt head anyway.

I managed to get the old pilot bearing out with my slide hammer style bearing puller.  It only cost me a couple of blood blisters.  Got the new bushing pressed in for the AX-15.  The only thing I have left to do is tap the holes in the frame for the new crossmember position and my new mount should arrive Monday.
I am  converting to a cable actuation on the CAD system while I am at it.  The only other wiring left to do is for my electric fan conversion, and to do the sensor ground wire mod/improvement to the ECU harness.

Now that I have replaced nearly half of the truck, it should be reliable for a little while...

[collkid]

Halfassed jobs are the joys of owning a pre owned Jeep

 

 

Correction. Joy of owning any pre-owned modified car.

[Megadan]

Except the only actual modifications anybody else has done to this truck was adding a tachometer to it.  I am suspicious that a previous owner swapped out from a bench to buckets and console, but the console is all busted up because it was left unsupported.

[Megadan]

With 4 classes and a new job I have been kinda short on time.  I did get a little more done on the Jeep this last week or so.  I didn't take pics of a lot of the work, but I do have a few to share.  I stripped down my new X-member and painted it (and my new windshield trim from the wreckers).  Got the holes tapped for it under the chassis, and the flywheel and new clutch installed and torqued to spec.  I also ended up replacing the cylinder head after I made a couple of discoveries.  One, it was cracked in a couple places, the head gasket was also showing signs of letting go, and somebody tried to drill out the front exhaust stud from, what I am assuming, when they broke it off in the head.  They did such a great job drilling it that they actually went THROUGH the head bolt.  I am glad I was able to extract that sucker without it breaking off in the block.  BTW, I found a great way to deal with that rear drivers side head bolt, although I admittedly don't know how well it would work with the transmission isntalled, but if you tilt that engine forward a bit you get just enough room to slide the bolt in and torque it down.

New head installed with a test fit of the Pacesetter.  Yes, I know the quality isn't always the greatest, but my test fit so far everything has lined up perfectly, and nothing hits anywhere, so I got one of the good ones.

 

Can you tell which of my old fuel injectors were screwed up?  Those valves are even whiter in person than in the picture.  cyl 6 is an oily pig from a missing valve seal.  The old head gasket was starting to go in a couple of spots as well.  Engine does have 131k miles on it, but it does have good compression.  Probably better now with the new cylinder head on there.  The top end had a bit of sludge buildup on it, but nothing too bad.  I have definitely seen worse.  The rockers cleaned up fine with some B-12, a tooth brush, and rags, so it wasn't baked on too badly.

 

 

Once the transmission gets put in I am going to replace the front motor mounts with my polyurethane ones to go with the poly trans mount. I also ordered, and need to install, a Posi-lok setup.  I was going to just shim it, but I like the idea of being able to disengage the axle.  I went ahead and got the iron shift fork while I was at it since it was pretty cheap.  I need to get around to installing the new rear leafs and shocks as well.  I just got these in two days ago.


Oh, and speaking of the trans and clutch stuff, if anybody wants a Sachs internal slave/TO setup for cheap I have one sitting here.  Since I am doing the external system I have this one from my clutch kit that I won't be using for anything.  Say $20 shipped and it's yours, or make me an offer.

 

[Megadan]

Well, I got the trans installed with my new clutch and flywheel, but I ended up confused.  I tapped the holes in the frame and went to put the crossmember in and realized that the mount and trans won't line up.  They would in the forward holes, so I experimented and discovered that, while it will work, it sits too high.  The 92 Comanche Crossmember I have also doesn't line up right with some of the forward hole positions.  I started to do a little digging and discovered that I needed the trans mount bracket.  Yay, more money spent....

Anyway, I finally managed to find a place to order one through, because there are no XJ/MJ manuals in any of the yards around here in the right year range.  Once that shows up I can finish mounting it up, but for now the trans and transfer case are just resting easy on a 2x4 on said crossmember for now.  I was glad I found one, but it's going to take up to 2 weeks to get to me, so I guess I can start buttoning everything else up until then.  I can't wait to be done with this truck so I can actually drive it and enjoy my hard work.

[collkid]

Full restoration seems to be in need.

[Megadan]

Actually, it's pretty solid.  Body restoration work would be extremely minimal.  Almost all of the driveline has been replaced or had major work done in the last 10,000 miles (the gears and limited slip done by last owner) and all of the crap I am doing.  The short block is the only thing that hasn't been touched, and it's in excellent shape, especially for only have a hair over 100k on it.