kolton Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 Hey guys. So yesterday I tore out my old 4.0 that was limping its way to heaven. Today I took the 97 and dropped it into my MJ. I've done a ton of research but like always, something was missed. I'm running the 97 block, head, intake, horizontal oil pump housing, and P/S pump bracket. Kickdown and throttle cables. I'm running the 87 distributor, alternator and a/c brackets. Starter, Flywheel, and exhaust manifold. Deleted the egr port and retained my O2 sensor. At this point I've got everything in and buttoned up except for the fuel rail. How did y'all set up your rail to go from a system with a return line to a system without one? And I'm not sure which injectors I should use? Any help is appreciated. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinajeep726 Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 Get a fuel rail from a '94-'95 XJ. It'll bolt on and line up just fine on the '97 intake manifold and has the FPR with return on the rail. It's what I did for my stroker setup in my '88 XJ. This is what I did to extend the steel fuel lines... Earl's fittings to -AN fittings with barbed ends from Summit Racing. Good for up to 50psi. See below... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kolton Posted September 16, 2013 Author Share Posted September 16, 2013 Thanks! I was hoping to finish tonight, but I guess a junkyard run is in the plans for this week... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yxmj Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 FYI as posted above the same year YJ rail will work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankTheDog Posted September 16, 2013 Share Posted September 16, 2013 91-95 XJ, ZJ and YJ have the same rail. 93-95 on the ZJ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kolton Posted September 16, 2013 Author Share Posted September 16, 2013 Even better! Thanks guys, that will make the trip a lot faster. It's about 40 miles to the nearest JY, so time becomes a real issue when your trying to fit the trip in after work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kolton Posted September 18, 2013 Author Share Posted September 18, 2013 Hey guys, having trouble getting a fuel rail from the junkyard. The only CORRECT fuel rails I have founders on complete motors that they won't part out... Is there any chance that I can just delete the fuel return line and use the rail from the 97? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 Believe I have a fuel rail will work. If you'll go $5.00 plus shipping let me know. I'll go check. Exactly what year(s) you need.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kolton Posted September 18, 2013 Author Share Posted September 18, 2013 91-95 XJ, ZJ and YJ. 93-95 on the ZJ. Should have the two fuel ports at the front of the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kolton Posted September 18, 2013 Author Share Posted September 18, 2013 Would I be able to bypass the line for now to get the new motor started and tested? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted September 18, 2013 Share Posted September 18, 2013 PM sent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kolton Posted September 18, 2013 Author Share Posted September 18, 2013 Pm replied Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kolton Posted October 4, 2013 Author Share Posted October 4, 2013 Well I got off the plane in good ol DFW Texas this evening. My wife was going to be working late so I decided to tear into the MJ again. Got the fuel lines made and got the motor all buttoned up and filled with fluids. Crossed my fingers and gave the motor a spin... Nada... Motor would turn, with the occasional promise. But no go. I do t have a fuel pressure gauge but when I press the valve on the rail I get fuel. A good stream/spray but not like one with a High pressure pump. Not enough for it to touch the hood with it open. At this point I called it quits because the wife got home and the Mosquitos ( haha, welcome home...) were terrible. Any clues as to where to start in the morning? I'd like to get it started at least while i am home. I leave back to Canada on Monday. Thanks~ Kolton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oyaji Posted October 4, 2013 Share Posted October 4, 2013 Regulator stuck (partly or mostly) in the open position would dump your fuel right back in the tank via the return line and cause a pressure drop in proportion to how much the valve is stuck open. Did you check the regulator? . Earlier you mentioned wanting to delete it. Can't do that, because the fuel pump puts out too much volume - without the regulator the pump would stall and burn itself up. Putting the regulator in the tank with the pump would solve that problem, but then you would still have no cooling of the fuel lines/rail near/at the engine, and vapor lock (from boiling gasoline) would result when trying to restart a hot engine... along with possible injector problems long-term because they have no by-passed fuel to use as a heat sink. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kolton Posted October 4, 2013 Author Share Posted October 4, 2013 While I was in CAN a buddy of mine dropped off the fuel parts I was needing (sorry JimOshel, I was sent out the morning after I messages you) I will check the regulator, but let me make sure I am not retarded first. The fuel port at the most front of the motor is the return, the one inboard is the input correct? I was going by the size of the port, largest should be the input? I've read that the regulator is not serviceable? So I would have to replace it I guess I did not bypass the return line, I cut the ends of the renix rubber lines and connected them to my shortened 91-95 HO lines. Looks stock from above the motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankTheDog Posted October 4, 2013 Share Posted October 4, 2013 Crimp the return line momentarily. You should see more pressure. If you do you have a regulator issue. If you don't you have a pump or plumbing issue. Did you do anything to the pump in the tank? If you did you may have not tightened a hose enough and it's by passing right at the tank. Also, your engine should fire even with as little as 20 psi are you sure it isn't a timing issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kolton Posted October 4, 2013 Author Share Posted October 4, 2013 Never touched the tank. At this point it is likely to be anything. May not even be related to fuel. I was just looking for possible places to start. As I stated before. I have decent fuel pressure out of the valve on the fuel rail. But a bad regulator is more than possible. Going to grab some ether and see if it will fire first before I start taking anything apart. I set TDC on both motors when sitting side by side, noted which way it sat and such way it turned when it came off, made it reverse the sequence when it was installed. Dropped right in on first stab, so I'm fairly confident on it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankTheDog Posted October 4, 2013 Share Posted October 4, 2013 My 92 was running halfway decent until 3,000 rpm then it started breaking up @ 22psi. When I changed out the pump I didn't tighten the feed hose correctly on the pump hanger. If its popping but not running I bet it's a timing issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kolton Posted October 5, 2013 Author Share Posted October 5, 2013 So it's not fuel related. Everything checks out fine. But I cannot get spark. I played with the CPS and still can't get anything. Not really sure where to start tomorrow. If I had the distributor on wrong I would still have spark. When I turn the key and turn the motor over I also get a relay clicking on the pass firewall. From the firewall forward, it is the third relay. When I did my motor swap. I drove the MJ into the shop. In plugged all of the sensors and pulled the motor. With both motors side by side I swapped the renix sensors, flywheel and TC over to the HO block and intake. Plugged the Renix exhaust manifold where the EGR was. Swapped over the distributor. And put the motor into the MJ. Plugged the sensors back in and modified the fuel lines, and hooks up my modified TPS. Put the battery in and crossed my fingers. I guess I didn't cross them hard enough. I do NOT have spark at the coil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kolton Posted October 5, 2013 Author Share Posted October 5, 2013 Went out back and stole the coil off my wife's cherokee. MJ runs! Thanks for the input guys. But it turns out that it was an easier problem than I figured it would be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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