Gauges, Sensor Locations

[daking]

I'm going to add Oil temp, Oil Pressure, water temp, AFR, trans temp, and some other gauges.

 

Questions, Where is the best place to pull oil pressure? Near the factory one would be best, but I can't find any spliters for that.

 

Water Temp, The engine is an HO from 92, and has a factory sensor up on the water neck. but, the old school temp sensor is still on the rear of the block. Can I replace that with a sensor from a gauge?

 

I've looked hard, and and I can't find a "Deep" alum. Transmission pan for the Automatics in these trucks, do they make them? Those usually have a temp sensor hole. And, on the subject of Automatic Transmissions, what is everyone using for aftermarket cooling, that fits with the condenser?  

 

Thanks

 

[Minuit]

The AW4 has an ATF pan, but I don't think it has any mounting for a gauge nor have I ever heard of an aftermarket pan with one. I've heard that aftermarket trans temp gauges read from the stock transmission cooler line.

 

No clue on the A/F ratio. I think hornbrod has an A/F gauge on his truck though so he'll probably be able to tell yo.

 

The water temp sender on the head is for the stock gauge/idiot light and the one on the thermostat housing is for the ECU. I don't see why you couldn't use the stock location for your gauge, but I don't know first hand.

 

Here's a CherokeeTalk thread about trans coolers: http://www.cherokeetalk.com/forum/f8/transmission-coolers-14285/ I've seen several CC members using the B&M cooler and it seems to work for them.

 

Hope I helped at least a little bit. :thumbsup:

[cruiser54]

T into the stock oil sender location for oil pressure, or just eliminate the idiot light sender I assume you have. Standard pipe threads there.

 

I would use the rear of the head for water temp. Again, standard threads there, to.

 

As for the pan, it's totally unnecessary as the AW4 is as hearty a trans as you'll ever find.

[airspeed]

I used a 90 elbow out of the block and a tee. This way I kept my factory light and added my gauge.

[HOrnbrod]

Regarding the A/F meter, you can either go with a narrow or wide band unit. The wide band is easier to read, but cost nearly 3X as much as the narrow band unit. Also, the wide band provides 0-5 VDC analog output that is useless for the Jeep HOs as the ECU operates on a 0-1 VDC signal. The AEM wide band A/F meter that I looked at does provide a 0-1 VDC "mimic" signal based on the 0-5 VDC it operates on that they claim is okat to use for the ECU, but then they recommend a separate 0-1 VDC O2 sensor be dedicated for the ECU. I've also read that this "mimic" signal isn't always correct and can cause rich or lean conditions. So if you use a wide band O2 unit, you will need to weld on an extra O2 bung on the header for the 0-1 VDC O2 sensor. I opted to use the narrow band meter, and it's easy to read once you get the hang of it. It will tell you all you want to know; rich/lean mixture and show loop transitions.