Gamblin Mans Comanche

[agamble]

I picked this little gem back in March of 13'. Sorry no good before pictures.

 

Its a 1989 Pioneer, 4.0L, Peugeot (P.O.S.) 4x4, 3" lift, 31" tires, 3.07 gear ratio, leather seats, custom sunroof, and the cooling system had been transfered to open system. I took a gamble it bought sight unseen off the internet from a guy in Vegas, it was love at first sight, or so I thought. Then reality hits, I quickly realized what was once love at first sight was in all actuality the making of any relationship. Alot of blood, sweat, and tears have been shed in the months since that March meeting.

 

But lets back up a bit. As stated it was purchased in Vegas, I made the short flight from the Salt Lake Valley to Sin City U.S.A. I could not wait to meet my internet love, first looks were not as impressive as the internet pictures led one to belive, and got worse from there on out. First thing that was noticable was the driver front fender was smashed in, then the rear bumper was crumpled like a taco shell. I peek in the cab and it got worse, no headliner, radio, shift knob, center console, shift boot, or tansmission boot, (Yeah I was looking at the parking through the transmission hole). B-pillar lights didn't work, horn didn't work. I think easily fixed, lets drive it now. I roll the window down go for a test drive.  Loud ticking from the tranny as it drives, hardest shift from 1st to 2nd I've ever felt, but the engine purred quite nice for being so tired and old. Gett back from the test drive the window doesn't crank back up. I sit and stew it over for a good 20 minutes. Here is the bind, buy it like I planned or walk away buy a plane ticket to get home, gamble my heart out with remaining money. I did what any sensible jeep lover would do, I bought it (at this point yeah I over paid).

[agamble]

I hung out in Vegas for a couple days and enjoyed cruising the strip in my new purchase, it was a rough, smelly ride, but it was mine. After enjoying the weekend I began the 8 hour drive back home. To this point it was all city driving below 45 mph, the 3.07 stock gearing was doing pretty good for pushing 31" tires, freeway speeds climbing into the mountains of Utah different story. Slowest sluggish drive ever. I had it redlined in 4th sometimes 3rd just to keep up with the loaded semis on the hill climbs. At this point I'm still feeling pretty good about my purchase. As I climb in elevation its gets colder, I go to turn on my heater, nothing but the icy cold march air of Utah coming in. no biggy I'll fix it. Halfway in my drive I notice that my temp gauge is slowly climbing, I pul over and sit for an hour to cool off, pop the hood look really close, notice the coolant is low. I grab the given to me by the PO coolant bottle and pour out nothing but clear water. I look close at coolent in the reservoir and notice its mostly water too. Great, I hope in drive 10 miles watch the temp gauge peg 260 instantly, a muffled explosion sound follows, lots of white smoke, and almost all engnie power goes. I am flooring it in 2nd gear to stay above 10 mph and get to the next turn off. I creep it into the gas station and it dies. No amount of cussing, coaxing, pleading with get it to turn over. (Yeah I definantly over paid). I second most worst phone call ever, you know the one right behind calling from prison, the I'm stranded in B.F.E. and need you to come get me. I wait the 4hours for my buddy to bring his truck and trailer, and cart me , my truck, and broken ego home.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I instantly began the tear down of the engine and cab (I literally rolled it off the trailer and tore into) only to find the head gasket blew (which I suspected), an engine bay of crappy spliced wires, and anything and everything that could be done wrong on a car done to this one, I began the work. (The reason for no before pics) But I also find that the head was cracked, and poorly repaired, and who ever had been in there before had just messed everything up. So Already out the money off the truck, and needing a new head, and basically new internals for the damn motor, going stroker was not happening. Just a simple fresh start build for me. So after months of rebuilding an engine, redoing alot of jimmy rigged wireing, rebuilding an interior, and doing alot of cosmetic work, all while trying to finish my college degree, and work full time. I give you the black pearl. Cheesy yes, but I loved pirates, the jeeps black, it was a constant irritation, and alot of work to get this point.

[Keyav8r]

Where did you get the seats? What are they?

[ftpiercecracker1]

Killer name and very fitting. Its a thing of beauty Gamble.  :thumbsup:

[agamble]

Where did you get the seats? What are they?

They came with the jeep when I bought it. I don't know what they came from, only that they cam from a pic-n-pull. They have the painted date on the bracket.

 

Killer name and very fitting. Its a thing of beauty Gamble.  :thumbsup:

Thanks for the compliment, and glad someone else finds the name fitting as well. :)

[UglyAmerican00]

I love it! very inspiring! I just bought a 88 Comanche Pioneer 4x4 and it runs nice, no heavy rust, but it still can be worked on. It sounds like you have experience in rebuilding motors, but still inspires me to get dirty and show no fear. I think it looks great! 

 

P.S. I feel the name you gave it "unknowingly" fit it just fine- The Gamble

[agamble]

I love it! very inspiring! I just bought a 88 Comanche Pioneer 4x4 and it runs nice, no heavy rust, but it still can be worked on. It sounds like you have experience in rebuilding motors, but still inspires me to get dirty and show no fear. I think it looks great! 

 

P.S. I feel the name you gave it "unknowingly" fit it just fine- The Gamble

Thanks!

 

Still has a lot of work, right now I am working on electrical issues with my auxiliary fan. And in the very near future I need to replace the broken leaf spring I have.

[agamble]

The other day I was wondering through the JY and came a cross what could be considered close to a fabled unicorn in these parts, a comanche. In the last few years that I have been frequenting JY here I have found a total of 3 comanches, usually they've been picked to the bone. This time my fortunes had turned it was untouched, it had only been there at most a day. Interior wise nothing was really of use as it was burgundy and my interior is gray. What's more amazing is it had a comanche short bed leer camper on it. The only problems with it were it was gray and the rear window was bent but hey both are easily fixed. So it was coming home with me for sure. I was there by my self so I grabbed a guy in the yard and offered him 5 bucks to help me carry it to my truck and put it on.

So $62 later, $50 for the camper, $12 for a couple cans a spray paint, and 2 hours of my time and I ended up with this

 

 

And this is the biggest problem that it has as of right now

 

I also grabbed all the emblems, both tail lights as they were in great condition, and all four fenders to replace my old cracked worn ones. I am planning on going back a getting the fuel sending unit from it if its still there in the next week. 

[agamble]

I had completely forgot about this thread, didn't realize it had been over a year. Where to start is the main question. Everything with this truck has been one step forward, two steps back. In the year and a half of ownership it has sat in pieces waiting for repairs for just shy of 12 months. Most of the down time is to collect my pennies and get new parts, I am of the mentality of do it right once.

 

July of 2013: I noticed the old saggy leaf on the passenger side when ever I turned or the weight shifted made a clunk or popping sound. Looked underneath and found the leaf broken in half. I ordered some hell creek 3.5" springs to replace them, some 3.5" coils, and new procomp es9000 for all for sides. I even purchased shock tower eliminator a for the front.

 

August 2013: Relocate jobs to NM, suspension upgrade on hold. In NM monsoons notice when ever it rains it rains inside my truck. So first things first I get a new windshield with the 97+ rubber stripping, the old chrome was peeling and looked bad. Once that's sorted out I begin the suspension swap. I pull the turdy-five out to swap rear springs, as I go to put it back in the axle tube spins in my hand. Well I can't have that, so I purchase a ford 8.8 with LSD, 3.73 gears at the local picn'pull.

 

October 2013: After saving and buying all the parts (single income, twins = little spending money) I replace all the 8.8 parts except gears and carrier. Welded on new spring perches, I stayed spring under, shock mounting tabs, and add Cherokee shackles to compensate for lost lift withe the thicker axle tubes and spring perches; it's up and running. Great to be driving it.

 

November 2013: Decide to get a working gas gauge. Pulled the fuel sending unit and it's toast, so I sent it off to be rebuilt/refurbished. Figure might as well make the fuel system fresh and new while it's down. I replace the fuel injected with Bosch 4 holed, new fuel filter, new fuel delivery line ( had to have custom built, yeah they don't make them for an 89' anymore) fuel pressure regulator. Wait until December until for the sending unit to come back, install it, it's up and driving.

 

March 2014: The Peugeot is on its last legs, I begin sourcing parts for an AX-15 swap. Spend months looking for an AX15 in the JY can't find one prior to this (dime a dozen I thought, nope if it had one when I came along it had been striped out of the jeep). Source one on the World Wide Web, while I am waiting for it, the Peugeot dies. Tranny swap is in full effect. I grab a newer np231 from the JY and rebuilt it completely, source and locate all the parts to swap in an external slave. This was much harder than the few write ups let on.

[agamble]

May/June 2014: Finally have all the parts for tranny swap. Ran out of money before I could rebuild the AX15 like I wanted, but am really wanting to drive so I go against my better judgment and put the AX15 in anyways, with all new clutch system and hosing. I spent more time trying find correct bolt threads and sizes than I would like to admit, but it's all new and purdy. I get it up and running only to find out that the syncros in the AX15 are bad. I am back at square one. I figure I'll drive it until it dies.

 

July 2014: I notice my oil leak is getting worse, I know I just replaced all the gaskets when I rebuilt can't be leaking already. Look over the engine and realize I completely forgot to change out the oil filter adapter o-rings. I figure now is a good time to put on a 93+ adapter to allow for a wider, larger, better selection of oil filters. And it makes it easier to change motor mounts in the future. I have also been having blow by issues, so I figured if I am changing oil and o-rings, might as well put a 99' steel valve cover with baffles instead of the towers. In that goes with all new vacuum tubing as well.

 

August 2014: AX15 is toast, lasted a lot shorter than I thought. Parked it but decided to upgrade the control arms. Found a WJ being parted out and put those. ( which I could drive it to see if there is a marked improvement liked it's been claimed) I also decided since I am doing suspension pArts, I grabbed a ZJ V8 sway bar, some quick discos and new bushings to go along.

 

Up till now I have also been collecting parts to redo my interior as it's missing some things and was put together poorly by the PO. I finally had everything so I stripped the interior, washed the trim pieces, sanded the minimal rust off the floor boards, spray rust inhibitor, then laid EZ-cool insulation down, replaced the old stock speakers, added new (to me) carpet, and new to me seats from a 2 door Cherokee.

 

And finally the paint was bad on the roof, tail, gate, and hood. So until I can afford a real paint job I have been working on the poor man rate can job. I have been going panel by panel, removing trim and repairing/replacing it as I work along the jeep. It may not be professional but I want it to still look good. I paint the orange peel to blend. It's been coming out pretty good.

 

I know this thread is worthless without pics. I didn't take pics of the mods I did because I forgot about this thread. But I will post some after pics later after I take some.

[agamble]

I found this link to a previous owners build thread.

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=36935&p=361175#p361175

However I didn't buy the jeep off of him.

 

AX-15 Manual Transmission – (4x4, 98’ Jeep Cherokee) 

 

 Transmission was rebuilt at 175,563 miles on the odometer. Due to the lack of proper tools, I had it professionally rebuilt.

 

 

 

 

 

  Do NOT follow the transmission fluid recommendations in the owner's manual, it is a misprint.  The factory service manual (FSM) does have the correct information in it. Chrysler has moved along to the newer fluids as they were introduced even though the AX-15 stayed the same. The Mopar number references a 10W-30 synthetic motor oil. However a lot of people recommend using Redline MT-90, Redline MTL fluid, (The GL-3/4 rating of this fluid means it does not have the harmful additives [sulfur compounds] that cause synchronizer wear as experienced when running GL-5 rated fluids.)  You can find it on-line.  It is highly unlikely you will find Redline at the usual auto parts store (AutoZone, Checker, PepBoys, etc.)

  Transmission fluid; I use Mobil 1 full synthetic 10W-30. I average ~5K miles per year which means I change out oil once per year.

 

Clutch – (External Slave, 98’ Jeep Cherokee)

  Due to the differences between the Renix era and newer OBDI/OBDII computer systems, when installing the clutch system the Renix era fly wheel and CPS sensor must be used with the newer transmission.

When Chrysler changed from the internal slave setup to the external slave, the transmission input shaft diameter was changed meaning if you are using an external slave AX-15 in an older 4.0L a new pilot bearing may be in order.

BA10/5 and internal slave AX-15s have a pilot bearing with an ID of 0.5934 inches, OD of 1.055 inches, and depth of 0.719 inches (OE part number 53009181).

  External slave AX-15s have a pilot bearing with an ID of 0.7518 inches, OD of 1.8161 inches, and depth of 0.719 inches (OE part number 33004041).

  A 73’ CJ, 350 V8 pilot bearing is recommended when using an external AX-15 in an older 4.0L. It has an ID of 0.751 inches, OD of 1.056 inches, and depth of 0.88 inches (National part number PB77HD or Dorman part number 14674).

  The 73’ CJ pilot had too large an OD to fit into the back of the engine, I found that the external AX-15 pilot bearing fit into the space, so I am running that one. 

[agamble]

Empty Post

[benjy_26]

Nice progress! Since the paint is a hammered finish, did it come out smooth, or textured?

[agamble]

Nice progress! Since the paint is a hammered finish, did it come out smooth, or textured?

Thank you, it's a night and day difference between when I purchased it and now. It is smooth to the touch, yet appears to have a slight texture to it when looking at it.

[agamble]

Since I have upgraded my transmission and transfer case the 4wd is not really of any use to me since I eliminated the CAD system at the transfer case. I was thinking of doing the CAD elimination following the write up on here or even purchasing something like this: 

 

http://4x4posi-lok.com/app_jeep.html

 

However when I was surfing classifieds on craigslist I found something that I couldn't pass up. The guy had bought a HP30 from a 98 xj as an upgrade for his wrangler, but before swapping it in he needed money. So for $180 I got the axle housing (he had already welded on a rusty's axle truss, painted yellow to match his jeep, lower control arm skids, and braced the lower c's) axles with the larger 760 u-joints, brand new motive 4.10 gears, master install kit, axle tube seals, and new bushing for the driver side.

 

 

 

 

[agamble]

Braking System – (Brake Booster and Master Cylinder, 00’ Jeep Grand Cherokee) 

 

From 84’-94’, Comanches and Cherokees came with a single-diaphragm brake booster. This worked OK for stock applications, but once larger tires and a lift are added in its inadequacy is quickly shown. Later Cherokees and Grand Cherokees use a dual-diaphragm booster, which increase pressure in the brake lines, applying more pressure to the brakes, resulting in faster stops. There are multiple ways to do this swap, I went with 00’ WJ booster, it’s rumored to give a bit better braking.

 

There are multiple ways to do this swap and I'm not going to go into detail as there are sufficient write ups to be found, I picked the one I liked best and followed that: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=924285 

 

It’s recommended to use a ¼” spacer to keep the push rod lengths similar. After measuring the distances between the 89’ and the 00’, I used the spacer. The Grand Cherokee MC uses a bubble flare at the connection, so new 3/16 brake lines with bubble flares at the MC and double flares at the proportioning valve are needed.

 

Use DOT-3 brake fluid, stick with the brand names. The important thing is to always use fresh fluid from a sealed container. Buy the smaller containers for this very reason.  Brake fluid will suck moisture out of the air and this contaminates the fluid.  Using it from a fresh container will help ensure you always have clean fluid.

 

Side by side (I had already cut the old push rod to use as my template)

 

bleeding the master

 

Booster in its new home

 

Decals -

 I placed an order with Spencer at jeepsticker.com to get some new stickers (JEEP  and 4.0 litre for the tailgate, 4x4 to replace the cab ones, and comanche to go along the front fender), great guy to work with, highly recommend him.

 

[agamble]

AMC 252 4.0L Engine – (89’ Jeep Comanche)

Original Engine was rebuilt at 172,389 miles.

To eliminate the common problem of blow-by created by the towers located under the aluminum valve cover, a new steel valve cover (99’ Cherokee) with baffles was used. A new style valve cover gasket with replacement grommets needs to be used.

 

 

To allow for an easier time locating and a more ample selection of oil filters, an oil filter adapter with SAE threads (95’ Cherokee) was placed on the engine block.

 

 

 

Engine oil; I run Mobil 1 full synthetic 10W-30.  I average ~5K miles per year which means I see about 2 oil changes per year.  The extra $$ spent on full synthetic engine oil is worth it.   

[agamble]

Electrical – (Battery Cables and Lights)

 

After coming out after work and having a no start a few times, only to have to tighten the battery clamps, I decided an electrical upgrade was in order. I did some research on battery cable replacements and knew that the 6 guage stock cable wasn't going to cut it. I've read of several people going with 2 gauge, and others with 4 gauge. The general consensus was 2 gauge was best suited for heavy demand, and 4 gauge was a good upgrade for stock applications. I am all stock with no after-market accessories, so 4 gauge was sufficient for me. The setup I ran is below:

 

Positive battery terminal = B+;   Negative battery terminal = B-

 

Battery clamps are brass wing nut terminals.

 

Battery Cable                                                           Cable Length                                   Cable Termination

B+ to starter motor                                                          40"                                             3/8" on both ends

B+ to starter motor relay/distribution                              12"                                             3/8" on both ends

B- to engine block                                                           40"                                             3/8" on both ends

B- to inner fender                                                            12"                                             3/8" on one end, 1/4" on other

Engine block to firewall                                                   12"                                             1/2" on one end, 3/8" on other

 

Old cables, notice the small grounding cable for the block to firewall.

Final setup (feel free to ask for more pics if needed)

 

When I bought the truck the previous owner had installed a cheap projector headlight setup, most horrible thing I've ever seen. The blue lights were awful for night driving, you could barely see anything. And when you were caught in on coming traffic the glare of the lights were blinding. And to top it all of the wiring was messed up somewhere as the headlights wouldn't turn off unless you shut the truck off. Obviously they had to go. I first upgraded the head light harness.

 

You can make your own http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoHeadlightLoom.htm

 

Or go the route I chose, and run the LMC harness. You can pick them up for $29.99 here http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/csd/full.aspx?Page=48 part number 36-3580. It says it fits a chevy blazer but it's the same as the eautoworks harness.

 

Second upgraded to H4 housings. There are several options to go with when upgrading the housings. Remember to take into consideration state laws as some housings are DOT approved and others are not. I looked into several options:

DOT
Rampage http://www.quadratec.com/products/97009_501.htm
IPF http://www.quadratec.com/products/97017_1600.htm
Delta http://www.quadratec.com/products/97009_121.htm
Hella http://www.quadratec.com/products/97009_02.htm

Non DOT

Autopals (look on ebay for Autopal 200mm H4 housing)
Hella http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=744
Cibie http://www.clearcorners.com/products/cibie/

 

I went with Autopals as there is no vehicle inspections where I am at, so no need to worry. Oddly enough when I purchased them there were said to be DOT approved.

 

Third get some good bulbs. I used the bulbs 60/55W that came with the housings. Plenty bright with out blinding oncoming traffic. but you can use what ever you find appeals to you.

 

For installation of the harness and housings see this excellent write up: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/my-h4-upgrade-114440/

For my installation, I used self taping screws to ground the head lights right into the radiator supports behind the head lights buckets. The picture is dim but gives a btter ideas of where I placed my grounds.

Another install pic

[BlackBeast]

Very nice and I love the paint job..and color I might do that with my 89. Great looking mj!

[agamble]

Very nice and I love the paint job..and color I might do that with my 89. Great looking mj!

 

I tested out the color on the tailgate first and was surpised at how grey it came. Then when I saw it in the sunlight, I was hooked and finished the the whole truck. I read through yours and love the bobbed bed.

[BlackBeast]

Yes color is awesome. Thanks I didn't get much build photos as I wasn't really on the Internet much but I hope to get more future build status as I add to both my comanches. Yea the bobbed bed was a project in itself lol but it turned out great! Good luck and look forward to your future posts!

[agamble]

Heating – (Heater Control Valve Elimination)

 

At one point I was losing coolant like crazy, after a new water pump, thermostat housing, accompanying gaskets, and a thin coat of RTV gasket maker the coolant leak slowed significantly. However I was still finding that I was losing some coolant from a slow leak. The other day I found that my heater control valve was leaking....

 

I was looking into replacing it, however the replacements are known to start leaking rather quickly as well. I know that after 97' chrysler did away with the heater control valve on the cherokees and most forums were recommending to eliminate it all together on the 96' and newer when they started leaking; I opted to elimiate it all together. Four less spots to leak coolant from. Elimiation was very easy; take out old heater hoses and heater control valve, replace with longer hoses (5/8" from thermostat to upper heater core outlet. 3/4" hose from water pump to lower heater core outlet), and cap the vacuum line.

 

 

 

There is some debate on whether eliminating the heater control valve and having coolant always flowing through the core will increase in cab temperatures. From what is out there it appears to be personal opinion. I will find out this summer when it gets warm, I figure if its to hot I can cut the hoses and splice in a new heater control valve.

[BlackBeast]

My opinion Is it will be hotter. But it may not bother ya that much..I bypassed it,, for the whole time I owned a xj and it didn't bother me much but noticed a diff..tge valves do have a tendency to leak and can be a pain I replaced 1 and it leaked 2 wks later.... Good right up!

[gogmorgo]

My valve was bypassed when I got my MJ, so while I can't comment on before/after, I can tell you that if I don't run the fan at all, I start smelling that warm plastic smell after a while. Otherwise I have no "warm cab" issues... But then I do have a/c...

[agamble]

Exhaust – (Exhaust Manifold)

 

Since the time I purchased my comanche it has had an exhaust tick, the tell tale sign of a cracked exhaust manifold. This last month I have had a high idle (2000 rpm) with a whine once the engine has reached operating temperature. All research has lead to the conclusion that it is a manifold gasket leak, simple solution would be to tighten the bolts and see if the problem goes away. However this development coupled with the tick has made me decide to completely replace the exhaust manifold as well as gasket. I purchased and recieved a dorman exhaust manifold, cleaned it off and sprayed it with some silica ceramic coating, I used off the shelf VHT. I've read good things about this stuff, if using it make sure to get the flammable 1300 - 2000 degrees F.

 

 

I hit it with 3 coats, letting it dry for ~10 minutes in between each coat.

 

 

After the final coat it needs to sit for 24 hours before you cure it. Still deciding whether to cure it on the jeep its self or use the oven.