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MJ leans to DS


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Before anyone tells me rustys sucks :D I Have learned my lesson a bit late :cry: The issue I have has been a head scratcher for a while and I am stumped so I figured I would ask anyone who has a rustys lift if they are havin the same issue.

 

I installed a 4.5" rustys lift and 4" rustys leafs on my LWB MJ

I had to add 1 1/4 extra lift spacers to the front end to hold up the heavier than hell warn winch bumper and winch.

The problem I am having is that the MJ sits 1" lower in the DS front than the pass side does and I't makeing my crazy :mad: . The jeep sat perfect with the old 200,000 mile suspension on it and when I fist lifted it it sat fine . But now a year or so later it still sits low on the DS

I tryed swaping in a diffreent set of rustys 4.5 coils and still it leans

 

is anyone else haveing an issue like this? I know that I have a 22 gal tank and I am mostly the only passenger in my heep so could just haveing a full gas tank and my weight cause the jeep to set low on one side?

 

:popcorn: TIA

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Well, not really. The weight of you and the fuel (full tank) would probably cause it to be an inch off - but if you get out and still notice it then the springs are just being evil.

 

 

 

Personally I'd hit the junkyard and grab 2 stock coil isolators and put them on the low side. Or, I'd leave it be. Mine leans about 1.5" because of my bent springs... And I can't be bothered to fix that!

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Well, not really. The weight of you and the fuel (full tank) would probably cause it to be an inch off - but if you get out and still notice it then the springs are just being evil.

 

 

 

Personally I'd hit the junkyard and grab 2 stock coil isolators and put them on the low side. Or, I'd leave it be. Mine leans about 1.5" because of my bent springs... And I can't be bothered to fix that!

 

Yup stays 1" low when I am not in it , and when I am it feels worse from the drivers seat.

I have two stock isolators and a 3/4 spacer per side on mine ( cheap additional lift ) I was thinking of takeing out the 3/4 spacer on the pass side to level it some. but in the grand scheme something is still not right

and just knowing that will make me crazier. :D

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perhaps you didn't take out the factory spacers when you installed the new ones?

 

or perhaps one of your coils is cracked?

 

or perhaps the coil bucket on the axle has collapsed/cracked/broke and you don't know it...i had that happen to me.

 

or maybe one of the springs was just softer metal than the other. that would also do it.

 

inspect your front end very thoroughly.

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perhaps you didn't take out the factory spacers when you installed the new ones?

 

or perhaps one of your coils is cracked?

 

or perhaps the coil bucket on the axle has collapsed/cracked/broke and you don't know it...i had that happen to me.

 

or maybe one of the springs was just softer metal than the other. that would also do it.

 

inspect your front end very thoroughly.

 

I have stared and measure the thing till I broke a tape measure

the only thing I can come up with is the springs. the spacers are right and the axle and frame points where the spring mounts are fine so are the control arms .

the truck has never been wrecked or offroaded .

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Your not crazy at all!! I have the SAME problem up front. I just have an extra .75 spacer under the drivers side coil.

 

My Rustys rear springs have begun to sag a bit. Not a major problem...yet. I have lost less than an inch and they did lift MORE than the advertized 4inches. I am flerting with the idea of adding the stock overload. It would still ride nice but compression would begin to get stiff.

 

CW

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Your not crazy at all!! I have the SAME problem up front. I just have an extra .75 spacer under the drivers side coil.

 

My Rustys rear springs have begun to sag a bit. Not a major problem...yet. I have lost less than an inch and they did lift MORE than the advertized 4inches. I am flerting with the idea of adding the stock overload. It would still ride nice but compression would begin to get stiff.

 

CW

 

Well looks like I'm not that crazy after all :D . RE coils here I come.

My rear springs have settled as well but because of the extra spacers up front I can't tell how much, But I wish I could make the rears a bit stiffer .

Maybe if the rear springs where a bit stiffer I could carry more than 200lbs with out the ole heep draggin he arse.

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Cabz, I would try swapping the coils left to right. I had an inch of difference in the rear of my 88 when I was bulding it and I swapped the leaf packs. Ended up not changin' a darn thing so I left it alone.

 

CW, I realize it's a different set-up, but I've never had any issues with the overloads affecting my uptravel (my shocks on the otherhand...). I can't say whether or not springwrap is causing your particular leafs to sag CW (they might just be settling), but 'wrap can cause leafs to sag and the overload will go a long way to help control 'wrap.

 

 

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Ok I went to my dad on this one to see if he had any answers as he used to lower all the trucks in his day (I guess they thought that was cool).

 

First factory springs have a 17% variance in the spring rate for acceptability (Wow!) that means a stock MJ spring at 150 lbs could be acceptable at anywhere from 138 thru 163 lbs.

 

Second when building cheap lifts for the street I doubt that any of the mfgr's use a standards that are much greater if at all on these products so you could see a huge variance. If you just can't find any other reasons find a spring shop that can check the rates my dad says most used to do this for ten or twenty bucks.

 

Third he asked if the truck had severe rust as this could cause chassis twist ( i.e. do the doors line up with fenders and open and close properly)?

 

Fourth set the truck on stands in the driveway and get it as close to level as possible then pull the shocks, springs and all of the spacers/isolators out of the front. Now you are ready to measure the distannce from the spring perch to the top of the spring support you may be suprised at what you find here. Anyway compare the two measurments if they are the difference your trying to make up you have your answer (sloppy build quality or twisted chassis you can compensate with more spacer or a knowledgable body shop with a very good frame guy can fix this easily and it is not cost prohibitive usually 275 to 400 bucks to pull just about anything that has been crushed in an accident and the good shop will provide you with before and after printout just like the alignment shop that you will visit next if the bodyshop can't do it.

Remember if the driveway is not flat make sure you level the axle to the chassis before taking measurments.

 

Good Luck and remember some variance at all four corners is normal within the factory tolerances.

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