Alexia Posted May 13, 2013 Share Posted May 13, 2013 It appears you had to drill the top hole just to the right of the existing hole (next to the washer). Was this the case? I like the paint idea as well. Better looking welds too. Correct! I actually only have the bottom hole drilled on the driver's side right now and that holes the door shut. So if the person doing this can not weld and needs to take it somewhere to have it done then one bolt is sufficient to keep the door shut. My welds are visually crap since I get shaky when trying to weld. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheDirtyJeep401 Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 These the bad boys that need changed out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GirsMJ86 Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 These the bad boys that need changed out? That's them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHayduke Posted September 1, 2013 Share Posted September 1, 2013 Correct! I'm getting ready to try mine soon, I'll try to take some pictures for everyone. I'm going to see if it can be done leaving the factory striker plate in place to avoid drilling more holes in the body to fill. If it works I'll tack weld it so it does not rattle. I'll let you know how it goes... In test fitting the doors it appears you need to use the shims or door hinge spacers. Don't get rid of any of these before your doors are done! I sold a few from the XJ back doors and regret it. I put my MJ spacers in today, so I have the XJ spacers for any needed tuning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHayduke Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 Hello, I aligned my doors and installed the latches this weekend. I ended up using the MJ door shims as the doors don't line up without them. Save your thin XJ shims for fine tuning just in case. Adjusting the doors myself was interesting, especially moving them up. I ended up having to hold them open with a strap, push up from the bottom with a jack, and tap the bottom near the hinge side with a deadblow hammer to get them to move up. Here's a picture of my technical door alignment tools! For the latches I decided to try a different route than usual. I looked at a bunch of others pictures as to where the latch goes, held my latch up to the door, guessed and marked the holes. I can always go back and drill & remove the back plate if needed. just didn't want to make more holes to weld shut. I also did not drill and remove the old latch back plate but just moved it over to the outside. The passenger door latch worked ok this way. you can enlarge the holes if you need more adjustment. There is a retainer tab you'll drill through and then have to bend out of the way. On the drivers side, I tried to tear out the tab from the inside & did remove part of it. Then the backing plate can fall out. This is bad because then the door mount bolt plate will not sit well. I tried modifying one, but ended up putting the backing plate back in in the end. The Left nut plate below is the factory bend one. You also could try using nuts in the back. One of the bold heads looks lik the bolt is crooked but the door closes fine. The doors are now working ok but when pushing the outside button to open the doors, I have to depress it way in & sometimes push it twice. It seems tight or bound? It kind of pops when opening the latch. I tried adjusting the latch & even tried adding a shim but nothing seems to improve it? Any advice on what would help? I'm not a auto body guy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexia Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 The doors are now working ok but when pushing the outside button to open the doors, I have to depress it way in & sometimes push it twice. It seems tight or bound? It kind of pops when opening the latch. I tried adjusting the latch & even tried adding a shim but nothing seems to improve it? Any advice on what would help? I'm not a auto body guy.Replace the plastic linkage connectors with ones that keep the rod from wobbling and remove the handle from the door to lubricate the back side of the button assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 Do that, then also make sure the linkage rod has a full 90* bend at both the outside and inside actuators. Might even try 91* to apply more leverage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
702_MJ Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 Not trying to hijack, but since we are on the 97+ swap, how did you guys go about the wiring? Any tips on what wires go where, or how to set up the power locks, mirrors, etc? I just got the doors, power windows work on both sides, but its the rest that I'm still stuck on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GHayduke Posted October 9, 2013 Share Posted October 9, 2013 I used the XJ harness so everything then just plugs in for the most part. If you add optional equipment you then need to get creative. I'll likely end up adding a custom relay and power wired for the powered, heated seats I added. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
702_MJ Posted October 10, 2013 Share Posted October 10, 2013 I only got doors no harness, so ive wired everything so far myself. Been trying to follow JPmagazines write up on wiring, helped a bit so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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