gogmorgo Posted March 26, 2013 Share Posted March 26, 2013 So it's happened to me a few times now tonight, when I tried accelerating away from a stop light, my truck sputtered, like it was stalling out and catching again, very much like when a standard bucks when you let the clutch in too soon. Then when I got into my parking lot, I tried pushing over a bit of snow left by the plows in front of the spot, and it flat out died. Started up again fine, then died when I tried to do it again. I took a bit of a run at it and got over, but I'm a little concerned about getting out again. Or just driving. Possibly relevant, my truck spent about an hour and a half parked with the front wheels on a snow pile and the rear bumper on the ground (because Jeep) . The engine was off the whole time. Could I have leaked something into somewhere it shouldn't be? 91 4.0 4x4 auto. Stock so far as I know. Happened in all t/c positions, although seemed worse in 4lo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted March 26, 2013 Share Posted March 26, 2013 Sounds like you need to do a fuel pressure test. Couldn't hurt in the meantime to see if the connectors are tight on the fuel pump ballast resistor on the left inner fender. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted March 29, 2013 Author Share Posted March 29, 2013 Haven't had time to do a pressure check yet, but I checked the connectors on the ballast resistor. They weren't corroded but were a little dirty, so I cleaned them up a bit. Still tight, though. When I started it back up again, the engine was rattling pretty bad, so I shut it off and checked the codes. Got a 12 and a 54 (and a 55). After consulting Hornbrod's post (http://comancheclub.com/topic/28111-reading-obdi-91-and-92-mj-fault-codes/?hl=codes) I've decided to ignore the 12 (even though to my knowledge the battery was never disconnected) and change the sync sensor if that's not too much of a chore. Should I still check my fuel pressure? I need to use my mj within the hour. Is it safe to be driving it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 Safe, yes. Code 54 is what? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87manche1 Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 Code list http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/diagnostic-code-list-78108/ 54 is the stepper motor on the side of the throttle body i think Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 Haven't had time to do a pressure check yet, but I checked the connectors on the ballast resistor. They weren't corroded but were a little dirty, so I cleaned them up a bit. Still tight, though. When I started it back up again, the engine was rattling pretty bad, so I shut it off and checked the codes. Got a 12 and a 54 (and a 55). After consulting Hornbrod's post (http://comancheclub.com/topic/28111-reading-obdi-91-and-92-mj-fault-codes/?hl=codes) I've decided to ignore the 12 (even though to my knowledge the battery was never disconnected) and change the sync sensor if that's not too much of a chore. Should I still check my fuel pressure? I need to use my mj within the hour. Is it safe to be driving it? Why would you ingore it? If you know it hasnt been disconected then that could mean something. "Code 54-Camshaft or (distributor sync.) reference circuit-No camshaft position sensor signal detected during engine rotation." OR "54 Distributor sync pickup. Change sync sensor in distributor." Lol not sure which one is correct but they both seem like could be your problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted March 30, 2013 Author Share Posted March 30, 2013 So I just took the bus, didn't drive it. I keep forgetting that's an option for me... I chose to ignore the code 12 because I realized my battery hold-down strap (bungee cord) broke the other day, so I'm pretty sure that's why that code came up. Guess I should have mentioned that. I fired it up to take some video of the sound it was making, but it didn't really make it except for a few times coming off throttle. Seemed to be running normally when I was standing next to it, but after reviewing the video, it's still making the clatter, just not as loud as before. This is a relatively cold start, hasn't run for about eight hours but it was sitting in the sun. First turn of the key. There's also a bit of a rattle when coming off throttle, but that might just be what's left of my exhaust trying to fall off. The rumble at the beginning after it starts is just the camera bouncing. As far as diagnosing which it might actually be, is there a better procedure than swapping parts? I'd rather be reasonably certain that what I'm doing will solve it before putting money I don't have into it. Actually, what this page says makes it look like the two are one and the same part... feel like Zack's laughing at me...In my defense, with the end of semester crunch upon me, I've had very little time or energy to put into solving the issue. Likely won't be able to do much until the end of classes in a few weeks, although it doesn't look to be too much work to swap it out. Might even be able to get away with doing it in the parking lot... Am I risking serious engine damage driving around if it's bad? I feel like such a noob right now... Otherwise I'll be doing a lot of walking... anywhere I have to go doesn't save me any time by taking the bus... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92tanMJ Posted March 30, 2013 Share Posted March 30, 2013 Nah brotha I'm not laughing at you, I'm not anymore experenced that you or have been advice. I know a more about the 97+'s but not so much the 97-'s, let alone mj's. If you have a reason to not look at code 12 then I understand then but just cause isnt a good enough reason. lol Seems to be that its "54Distributor sync pickup.Change sync sensor in distributor." My advice is do as the code says and change it. The only damage I could see happening is if it was running really lean while you were driving it. But then again I only like one step above noob. hahaha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted March 31, 2013 Author Share Posted March 31, 2013 Yeah, I'll see about getting a new sync thing/camshaft sensor/ stator/whatever else it might be called on Monday. Usually I'm a step or two above noob as well, but this week has been a week from hell... between the cruch of the end of semester and everything being due all at once, and then spending time showing off a couple of our FSAE cars at a show this weekend lots of prep and making the cars that look like crap because we beat it out of them presentable, as well as over 20 hours standing at the display talking about them over the last couple days has left me dead... I just got back at 2 am after leaving for the show at 7am... hitching up and unhitching trailers in the dark and relative cold, And throwing inconveniences like this into the week hasn't been helping stress levels... But at least the show's over so things should return to pseudo-normal... I had to take out my MJ today, and had it up on the highway. Seems to be running fairly normally, not stalling out or anything. Idling nicely, even, although she's a bit on the warm side. Then I checked my coolant and discovered I didn't have much... oh, the things to sort out... that I just can't deal with right now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 Just for giggles, unplug the dizzy connector, clean it out with electical cleaner, tweak the pins.receptacles, and plug it back in. Is the connector oil soaked? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted March 31, 2013 Author Share Posted March 31, 2013 will do. There is a fair amount of oil coating the engine bay, so it wouldn't surprise me. I'll pick some cleaner up later today when I get some more antifreeze, and report back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 I just had to do this on my 91; had the same code causing random engine cutouts. It's a PITA to change the sync sensor on the 91 distributor. You have to pull it out, take it all apart, punch the drive gear pin out, remove the gear and shaft to remove the sync sensor. On the newer HO distributors (94 and up) you can change the sync sensor w/o removing the distributor; it's all there right under the rotor. The newer one swaps right in too. I put a new 94 distributor in and took my time rebuilding the old one as a spare. It might be the easier way to go for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted March 31, 2013 Author Share Posted March 31, 2013 Oh... I've done that before, swapped a pickup coil on a GM HEI... not fun at all. If cleaning the connector doesn't work, I may go that route, pull one from a jy, since I'll have to retime it anyway. Just did a bit of googling to refresh myself on what all was involved in swapping the dizzy, as I've only done it once and it was a few years ago, and it was an sbc at that. Your thread from January when you mentioned this came up. And I was even more shocked to discover that I posted on it... several times. I'm going to walk the couple miles down to the parts store if it's even open on Easter Sunday, and get some quotes. We've actually got some nice weather today for a change. I've got the best spot in the parking lot and don't want to loose it ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted March 31, 2013 Author Share Posted March 31, 2013 Actually, before I put much more time into this, is the '94+ dizzy a bolt-on and plug in swap, or does it take a bit more work than that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 It's pure plug and play. Here's a link on the various 4.0 distributors: http://www.xjtalk.com/showthread.php?t=9111 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted March 31, 2013 Author Share Posted March 31, 2013 Awesome, thanks. I checked mine on a long shot it was upgraded when the engine was rebuilt, but no such luck, still the 91-93. But now I know. Also, connector for the sync sensor was pretty clean, but I'll get some cleaner and shoot it anyhow. Out of curiosity, what are thoughts on pulling a dizzy from the JY? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted March 31, 2013 Author Share Posted March 31, 2013 Well, after getting some quotes from a couple places that were open today, I've ordered a dizzy for a '95 4.0 XJ and the mounting gasket, shipped for significantly less than anywhere else I could find one. Honestly, the entire thing is only a few bucks more than the sync generator, anyhow. Here's to hoping I didn't just throw out some money on a piece of junk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted April 11, 2013 Author Share Posted April 11, 2013 Well, the new dizzy's in, and it seems to have solved the problem. I'm not quite sure I like the way she's running, but it's nothing too bad. Hopefully it clears up when she gets the map sorted back out. At any rate, there's no more stumbling, and power seems to have gone up quite a bit. Turns out new distributors come with a gasket, too, which looks a lot better than the fel-pro I got. I was also surprised that the cap and rotor have brass contacts and not aluminum, considering I only spent $42 on the distributor. Or at least they look like brass. They could easily just be plated... World Power Systems DST 4696. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 Glad to hear it's running well again. It should smooth out in a few miles after the ECU relearns it's new inputs. Did you have your battery disconnected when you changed the dizzy? If so, he code 54 should be gone and hopefully stay gone. Mine did. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted April 11, 2013 Author Share Posted April 11, 2013 Oh, no, I didn't disconnect the battery. Should I do that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 When you think you have cured the fault code, it's best to disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes to clear the code(s), then check it about 50 miles later to make sure it doesn't reappear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted April 11, 2013 Author Share Posted April 11, 2013 Yeah, makes sense. Will do. Also, is a little bit of backfire when coming off throttle normal during the relearn? I couldn't get everything to line up exactly the same way with the new dizzy, so that's why I'm concerned. I don't think the rotor's more than 2 or 3 degrees from where it was, though, and it looks like the housing rotated by about the same. With going from the hold down clamp to the fork off the housing that the bolt slots into, there was only one way to put the new one in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 Check to see if the plug wires are in the correct location and rotation first. As careful as I marked everything putting the new dizzy in, I was off one tooth. It wouldn't start. Had to yank it back out and rotate it back one tooth ccw. Course, you may need to go the other way. But check the HV wires first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted April 14, 2013 Author Share Posted April 14, 2013 So I finally got out to look at the truck again today. I took it down to get me some breakfast, and on the way back it tried to die on me again once (but only once, as opposed to at every stop sign). So when I got back I checked the wires and everything, and it looked like it all checked out. I did notice the cap was a little loose ( could move the top of it a 1/4 inch), so I pulled it off, made sure it was seated properly and cranked it down. It seemed to be running better after that. Revving it from under the hood wasn't producing backfires, but I didn't actually drive it after putting the cap on better. I'll have to keep an eye on it, though. Despite the apparent brass, the cap that came with the new dizzy looks really cheap, so I may end up just putting my old cap back on. I also disconnected the battery, cleaned up the terminals while I had them off (they were somewhat corroded and coated in something that looked like peanut butter?) before putting them back on, and checked the codes again. Without starting it, I got 12 and 55, which I guess is what you'd expect right after disconnecting the battery... When I put initially put the distributor in last week, I chose a spot that was slightly counter clockwise of where my marks were, but the engine didn't fire up after a few cranks, so I moved the dizzy clockwise a tooth. That's when I noticed the whole housing seemed to be turned a bit clockwise from where the original was, so I figured I had to have it it in the right place. She fired on the first try, but didn't start, but it started and ran on the second crank. My buddy who was "helping" me (doing other unrelated things in the shop) points out that I didn't try very hard to start it before I moved the distributor, so I guess if once I get driving it and it's still running a little rougher, I'll have to go back a tooth. Assuming that backfiring out the exhaust means the timing is retarded and I would have to turn the distributor counter-clockwise to fix that, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 The distributor rotates cw so rotating the shaft one tooth cw would advance the timing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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