Timmmmmy Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 So my U-Joints are going on my 89 comanche 4x4 manual, non abs, CAD vaccume disconect axle and I figure this is a good time to start the re-gearing process. I am looking to swap in a dana 30 with 4:10 gears, the question is which one. Option one: Find an axle from a similar year with 4:10 gearing and with non abs, and CAD vaccume disconects. This would be easiest. Option two: Find a 96-99 dana 30 from a cherokee, these are NON CAD vaccume disconect and have the larger 297x u-joints From what I understand option two would give me a stronger axle. While it will bolt right on, the problem is I havn't found a good write up on this addressing the issues of what to do with the vaccume hoses and potentialy having the axle set up for ABS. Anyone done this swap? have a good idea of the swap difficulty and whats involved or can send me a link? Also as funds are tight I would like to do this in two parts, front axle swap first, re-gear my rear 44 that is installed second. Can someone confirm that as long a I don't engage 4WD I will be able to drive it with miss-matched gears? Thanks, Ryan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 Yes, you can. I did it for awhile, the truck didn't even have the linkages or a front driveshaft installed, so I couldn't accidentally throw it in 4x4. What's .10 gearing? Why are you disregarding the 91-95 D30? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 You just plug the vacuum off at the t case. As far as ABS you simply don't hook it up, you can just pull it off or leave it there doesn't matter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmmmmy Posted March 6, 2013 Author Share Posted March 6, 2013 Thanks guys, thats what I was looking for. Not sure why but when I hit paste it cut out the 4's.... Should read 4.10's. I am hoping for a 96+ D30 because they have the bigger U-Joints. I have just figured out however that I can swap just the shafts in from the newer D30 and get the bigger joints. I may go this route, swap shafts, re-gear, and keep the origional axle. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 89 and up with 242 and ABS also had no CAD and bigger joints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Yes, as long as you stay in 2wd, it doesn't matter what gears you have in the front axle. For the vacuum lines, find the feed line to the transfer case and plug it (in the engine bay) with a golf tee. The rest can be left as they are, or if you really want you can remove them. As far as the new axle possibly having been set up for ABS does not affect anything. You just don't have anywhere to plug the ABS wire into. Again, if you want you can remove the sensor altogether. Tone ring on the axle shaft will not cause any issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Your best bet is going to be finding an HP D30, regardless of year, with 4.10s, and upgrade the shafts in that. It's going to be cheaper than regearing your current axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmmmmy Posted March 7, 2013 Author Share Posted March 7, 2013 Thanks guys. I think picking up a new axle will be cheaper and easiest for now. Re-gearing the current axle will require new ring & pinion, carrier and labour. I'm thinking of finding a geared axle of the similar CAD style and swapping it in. When the joints go on the new axle I will do the shaft swap to get the bigger U-Joints. I have been looking for a good write up on the axle shaft swap, can't seem to find one. I have read that you need to change the seal for the passenger side axle when converting a CAD axle to non disconnect axle shafts, they are a different diameter. Can anyone point me in the right direction. Would this be the only thing needed to change when swaping shafts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 If you eventually want one piece shafts just look for a non cad axle. The cad axle wasn't designed to have the one piece shafts in it so its not machined for a seal, because of that they can leak. Also the one piece passenger side axle tube IMO is stronger then the 3 piece tube on the cad axle and not having the cast cad housing makes it easier to add a truss if you ever decide to. If you had a cad axle and wanted to upgrade it then I would say go for it but if you are planning to swap axles you might as well get a better one in the process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Here's a number for the seal. NOS (Napa Oil Seal) 11771 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmmmmy Posted March 7, 2013 Author Share Posted March 7, 2013 Thanks for the info mnkyboy, very much appreciated. I think it will depend on what I can find in the junkyard. I will start the search this weekend. I hear what your saying with it not designed for the one piece shaft, I will try and avoid it. Good to have the seal number none the less if I do go that route. FYI I read your build thread. I really like what you did with the truck, looks great. I'll be watching the thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Here's a number for the seal. NOS (Napa Oil Seal) 11771 NOS 11800 is better. 11771 is a single lip seal, 11800 is a double lip. And it is cheaper as well. They are a tight fit and I have never had one leak between the seal and the axle tube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasbulliwagen Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 To find an axle you may try www.car-part.com this will search all junkyards that are in the system and can be set to search by distance, price or whatever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 NOS 11800 is better. 11771 is a single lip seal, 11800 is a double lip. And it is cheaper as well. They are a tight fit and I have never had one leak between the seal and the axle tube. I figured you would chime in, I got the 11771 number from one of your old posts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 I got the 11771 a couple times, but not anymore since learning the 11800 is better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmmmmy Posted March 13, 2013 Author Share Posted March 13, 2013 FYI the "Crunching" sound I was hearing was the result of a shot tranny mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88whitemanche Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 Just wanted to refresh this subject....if I were to upgrade just the axle shafts would I have to buy a new unit bearing as well for the same year I pull the axle shafts out of? For the cad axle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 Unit bearings follow the generation of the knuckle, not the shaft. Regardless of CAD, the outer shaft that goes into the bearing is the same (except regarding U-joint size). Any of the shafts will go into any of the bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88whitemanche Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 Awesome junkyard run again this weekend...how do I know if the axle has abs is it just a wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 The ABS axles have a tone ring on them, and the knuckle will have a sensor with two wires. All ABS shafts have the larger u joints, some non-abs shafts have them. Bring a tape measure with you. 1-1/16" cap is the small joint, 1-3/16" cap is the stronger one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88whitemanche Posted April 25, 2013 Share Posted April 25, 2013 Cool thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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