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Tick Sound?


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One day my exhaust fell off from the manifold I bolted it right back up and I started having a tick sound. along with that once this sound started happening my oil pressure dropped and I the a couple rockers started making noise too.. I put some mystery engine/gas cleaner that's red in the motor to help with the noise see if it would clean anything up and it did for awhile then started up again but now a little louder than before. the noise only happens after a couple minutes after starting up my truck and then goes away after awhile. it also happens when I starting to crawl up something and the motor gets in really low rpms like when taking off... help please!!!

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Did you install a new gasket when you bolted back the exhaust manifold? Bet some of the tick is related to a leak..

 

Now, I gotta ask. How on earth does an exhaust manifold just fall off the engine without some prior indication? I would think there would be a leak before it just falls off. What's the whole story?

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Don't know what the exhaust falling off has to do with it, but it sounds to me like your oil pump is wearing out. The ticking noise is probably a lifter (or lifters) that's not pumped full of oil. Lower RPM means the pump is turning slower and pumping less oil. The mystery engine/gas cleaner may have increased the oil's viscosity a little so that there wasn't as much "slip" in the pump and it pumped enough more oil to fill the lifters.

Other possibility may be you've got particles and/or sludge in the engine that's broken loose and plugged oil passages.

Did your oil pressure change when you put the mystery stuff in the engine?

I'd drop the pan and check/replace the pump. Maybe drop a couple of the main bearing caps and see what the bearings look like.

You didn't say how many miles on the truck. Could just be normal wear getting to the point of re-build time.

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The manifold itself did not fall off the down pipe connecting to the manifold fell off and no with the mystery oils cleaner oil pressure didn't go up it helped at first tick went away for a couple day and now is back there is a little exhaust leak bc I didn't put a new gasket and it's barely noticeable I'm using a fram oil filter and 10-40 oil 170,000 miles on the motor

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The manifold itself did not fall off the down pipe connecting to the manifold fell off and no with the mystery oils cleaner oil pressure didn't go up it helped at first tick went away for a couple day and now is back there is a little exhaust leak bc I didn't put a new gasket and it's barely noticeable I'm using a fram oil filter and 10-40 oil 170,000 miles on the motor

 

Get rid of that Fram. Those filters are junk, along with STP etc. Use Mopar, Wix, or Napa Gold. Sometimes it takes a while for the lifter tick to go away with MMO. If it ticks on start-up, shut it off for 20 seconds and re-start. Does the tick go away or reduce?

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Wouldn't be a bad idea to install a mechanical oil pressure guage so you can see what is really going on. On my TJ, I screwed in a "T" fitting where the sender is, and added the mechanical guage. I just had it loose in the cab for a few days until I knew how my electric guage related to the real pressure. Could be you are getting wierd readings due to a bad electric connection, bad sender, plugged passages.

 

Once you know your true pressure, you can then know if your in need of pulling your pan to diagnose. Agree with Cruiser on that fram filter. Although they have corrected their previous quality issues, still there are better options out there as he named a few. Might try switching to a higher detergent oil made for older engines. Will slowly clean out any sludge that may be causing your lifter to not fully pump up. Frequent oil changes will also help.

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Wouldn't be a bad idea to install a mechanical oil pressure guage so you can see what is really going on. On my TJ, I screwed in a "T" fitting where the sender is, and added the mechanical guage. I just had it loose in the cab for a few days until I knew how my electric guage related to the real pressure. Could be you are getting wierd readings due to a bad electric connection, bad sender, plugged passages.

 

Once you know your true pressure, you can then know if your in need of pulling your pan to diagnose. Agree with Cruiser on that fram filter. Although they have corrected their previous quality issues, still there are better options out there as he named a few. Might try switching to a higher detergent oil made for older engines. Will slowly clean out any sludge that may be causing your lifter to not fully pump up. Frequent oil changes will also help.

 

They HAVE NOT corrected their previous quality issues. They are of poor and cheap design. Just recently we changed the Fram on my buddy's newly acquired 99. Oil and filter had just been changed. He shut it off, got the tools and pan ready and when he spun the Fram filter off, all the oil had already drained out in that short time period.

 

I WILL NOT support any company that has caused so much destruction and wear to my favorite vehicles, knowingly for many years, and only half-@$$ addressed it when put under the gun about it. I support the companies that gave us quality products on their own, without just concern for profit and cheapness.

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While I agree that frams are probably the worst filter to use, I was referring to the cardboard end caps they were using a few years ago. I have not taken one apart to verify this, but was told they upgraded that part of the filter. The rest is still crap... You can do a quick search for fram filter quality problems, and you will never run a fram again. And yes, how can you knowingly support a company that puts out poor quality KNOWINGLY? I can't.

 

I'll edit my previous post as it is mis stated.

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I just bought a wix filter gunna change my oil tomorrow and see if anything changes also just a tune up on it too bc I'm puttin my MSD ignition in so new cap rotor plugs and wires

 

If the oil is not that old, just change the filter and see what happens.

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It's around 5000 give or take

 

Just an FYI:

Engine oils contain anti-wear additives such as ZDDP (Zinc dialyldithiophosphate). These additives deposit a thin layer on high wear surfaces such as the cam lobes. These additives get depleted as you run the engine. Point being, IMO 5,000 miles is pushing the limit for these older engines that need the anti-wear additives more so than their modern counterparts. Our flat tappet engines run higher valve spring pressures than the newer overhead multicamed engines, so just be advised that you should not neglect your oil changes, and to chose an oil specifically fomulated for our flat tappet engines.

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Just an FYI:

Engine oils contain anti-wear additives such as ZDDP (Zinc dialyldithiophosphate). These additives deposit a thin layer on high wear surfaces such as the cam lobes. These additives get depleted as you run the engine. Point being, IMO 5,000 miles is pushing the limit for these older engines that need the anti-wear additives more so than their modern counterparts. Our flat tappet engines run higher valve spring pressures than the newer overhead multicamed engines, so just be advised that you should not neglect your oil changes, and to chose an oil specifically fomulated for our flat tappet engines.

 

Yep. Rotella and Wix. Go together like peas and carrots.

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old trick, take an over sized screwdriver and place it on top of the valve cover just over the spark plugs one at a time and put your ear against the handle. see if any one cylinder ticks louder than the other.

There's this cool stethascope thing my friend has for this type of thing, it's a real thin rod with a stethascope attached to it. It can find all kinds of noises, like squeaky pulleys and knocking rods and whatnot.

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