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Rear Sliding Window


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Are aftermarket rear slider as bad as some say they are. I need to replace my rear glass, and a aftermarket slider seemed the most logical option. I have a slider in my donor manche, would I be better off taking that out and reusing it, or should I just buy an aftermarket one? Anyone have an expireience with them?

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If your spare is in good condition, just swap that one in. There is a decent write-up in DIY that will help you a lot. I have a after-market in my shed as a back-up but can't say if the quality is the same as OE. It looks to be of good quality and I got it for $20 from a parts truck.

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I think you can use windshield rated silicone or urethane sealant. Or...for less than a new window, you can take the OE with you to a auto glass installer and have them install it for you. Most installers have some sort of warranty against leaks.

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I took the window to the local auto glass shop for installation; took about an hour and a half to do as I wanted it professionally installed.

 

The CRL kit comes with a flimsy sticky tape and a handful of screws; the intent is to put the tape on the window to hold it in place and then use the supplied screws to secure the window to the body. This method would lead to air/water leaks as the sticky tape dried out and deteriorated.

 

I suggest to anyone who wants to put this window in to take it to a pro auto glass shop. That way the shop can use the heavy black urethane sealant all around the window to prevent leaks as it is pliable before it sets up entirely to get into the contours of the bodywork and the window frame to prevent leaks; it also allows time to fine-tune the way it sits to make sure it is straight. Be advised the old window will have to have its rubber gasket or trim cut out with a knife or razor in order to free the old window and to remove excess gasket/trim. The old gasket/trim will not be reused.

 

While the window is out before the new one goes in it is a good time to check for any rust at the seams in the corners of the body window frame.

 

Should you go with the CRL route with professional installation, I think you will be rather pleased with it. Be sure to read my Amazon review [link above] for any caveats.

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Check my thread... "the building of bucky" for photos. I had it done at a glass shop when all the other glass was changed also so I did not do the install myself ( blasphemous ). I know that additional sealant was used, but it all looks clean and professional and no it does not leak. I will shoot any photos you like after I get the truck back from the paint shop.

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I had the CRL 4 pane installed in November. The factory window sits in the opening, the CRL glue-in sits on the opening. I think the CRL looks better, I never liked the factory look of the thick gasket and the thick frame - looks like you're cheated into a small window, but there are drawbacks:

 

1) the frame sits on or straddles the opening and isn't an exact fit - it'll touch the metal in a couple spots and be gapped up to an 1/8" around the rest of the frame on the outside (not a leak issue and not eye catching to a casual observer).

 

2) On the inside, I'm seeing about a 3/4" gap to the trim panels. At the right angle I can see the B-plr light leaking through, plan on filling this gap with a black foam door seal when the weather gets warm again.

 

3) The headliner was designed for the shorter factory window. When the window is open, you can see the edge of the headliner hanging down.

 

and last - the guy that installed mine used way too much urethane. it squeezed out on the inside and got into the tracks. had to come back a couple days later to cut the junk out. I was pretty ticked off but still think the CRL looks better from the outside. Just try to get it installed right

 

Can see pics in my photobucket acct

http://s1255.beta.photobucket.com/user/SteveBeguin/library/CR%20Laurence%20Rear%20Slider

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I had the CRL 4 pane installed in November. The factory window sits in the opening, the CRL glue-in sits on the opening. I think the CRL looks better, I never liked the factory look of the thick gasket and the thick frame - looks like you're cheated into a small window, but there are drawbacks:

 

1) the frame sits on or straddles the opening and isn't an exact fit - it'll touch the metal in a couple spots and be gapped up to an 1/8" around the rest of the frame on the outside (not a leak issue and not eye catching to a casual observer).

 

...

 

3) The headliner was designed for the shorter factory window. When the window is open, you can see the edge of the headliner hanging down.

 

I concur on both points. Regarding the headliner, if you have a canopy/topper, no one will be any the wiser to its exposure.

 

One final comment, the window comes with a little rectangular CRL sticker in the bottom left corner; it comes off easily with a glass scraper and a little adhesive remover.

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Thanks for the pics guys, I appreciate all the help. I have to say the slider does look good. I'm not really concerned with the headliner issue, as that can probably be addressed fairly easily. I think I know what your saying about the gap, and how it touches in some spots and not others, but if its not a leak issue, then I'll just have to deal with it. I think I'm gonna choose this option because, from what you guys are saying it sounds pretty good. Ill post when I do make a final decision, but I think I'm going to buy it.

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I concur on both points. Regarding the headliner, if you have a canopy/topper, no one will be any the wiser to its exposure.

 

One final comment, the window comes with a little rectangular CRL sticker in the bottom left corner; it comes off easily with a glass scraper and a little adhesive remover.

 

Yes, I defiantly will remove the sticker. :)

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I took the window to the local auto glass shop for installation; took about an hour and a half to do as I wanted it professionally installed.

 

The CRL kit comes with a flimsy sticky tape and a handful of screws; the intent is to put the tape on the window to hold it in place and then use the supplied screws to secure the window to the body. This method would lead to air/water leaks as the sticky tape dried out and deteriorated.

 

I suggest to anyone who wants to put this window in to take it to a pro auto glass shop. That way the shop can use the heavy black urethane sealant all around the window to prevent leaks as it is pliable before it sets up entirely to get into the contours of the bodywork and the window frame to prevent leaks; it also allows time to fine-tune the way it sits to make sure it is straight. Be advised the old window will have to have its rubber gasket or trim cut out with a knife or razor in order to free the old window and to remove excess gasket/trim. The old gasket/trim will not be reused.

 

While the window is out before the new one goes in it is a good time to check for any rust at the seams in the corners of the body window frame.

 

Should you go with the CRL route with professional installation, I think you will be rather pleased with it. Be sure to read my Amazon review [link above] for any caveats.

 

Just an FYI, the old gasket can be removed from the old window if it is still in place without cutting/destroying it

as shown in the DYI rear window replacement thread. The original stock window gasket is one of those parts

that is kind of sacrilegious to destroy, they are very hard to find for people that need them. Would be like junking

a decent MJ just cause you wanted an MJ trailer, sort of.

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Just an FYI, the old gasket can be removed from the old window if it is still in place without cutting/destroying it

as shown in the DYI rear window replacement thread. The original stock window gasket is one of those parts

that is kind of sacrilegious to destroy, they are very hard to find for people that need them. Would be like junking

a decent MJ just cause you wanted an MJ trailer, sort of.

I ended up ordering the new rear slider, however I still plan on removing the old one, and keeping the gasket on tact. I will keep it for future use, or sell it if i don't need it.

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