Rough Idle And Wtf Just Happened!

[anti-christ-comanche]

so the truck has a real rough idle its been goin on awhile ik that the intake manifold is leaking but i can't do that till it warms up! some things ive done is replaced some vacuum hoses about a month ago i took apart the throttle body and got it squeaky clean. i got new plugs and wires and I'm waiting for the cap rotor and new ignition coil to come in... thats all good and all but everytime i crank the steering wheel all the way over it kills it self!!!! it kills itself just at idle to i can rev it up to like 4000 then it will go down to like 1500 then 1000 then 700-800 then kupit kupit big shake dead!!!!!! when its warmed up good it won't die but the engine shakes so much sounds like its running one two or three cylinders and the whole truck shakes! kinda scares me sounds like the thing is gonna shake to death. any suggestions on what to do and or what it might be would be great.

[Akula69]

If you are saying that when you turn the steering wheel to the "stop" it dies, you are creating an extreme pressure in the power steering system which is probably bogging down the engine. That, along with the manifold leak is probably enough to kill it.

[1tonMJ]

Well 1st, stop doing what you're doing.

[anti-christ-comanche]

Well 1st, stop doing what you're doing.

 

I'm here to find out whats going with my vehicle not to get pissed on thank you very much. and ya think that i keep doing it?? umm hello...BIG RED TRUCK

 

If you are saying that when you turn the steering wheel to the "stop" it dies, you are creating an extreme pressure in the power steering system which is probably bogging down the engine. That, along with the manifold leak is probaboly enough to kill it.

 

and thank you for the useful information

[ParadiseMJ]

I'm here to find out whats going with my vehicle not to get pissed on thank you very much

 

Check your motor mounts and tranny mounts.

 

...and quit crying about it every freakin' time you post!!!! :thwak:

 

...otherwise you'll find that no one WANTS to help you. We don't work for you.

 

[anti-christ-comanche]

 

 

Check your motor mounts and tranny mounts.

 

...and quit crying about it every freakin' time you post!!!! :thwak:

 

...otherwise you'll find that no one WANTS to help you. We don't work for you.

 

I'm not crying about nothing i just don't appreciate people being smart assess....and I never said anyone worked for anyone nor implied it nor thought about it andyou had noreason to involve yourself in me being upset with someone else. I'm not here to fight our argue with anyone that's not my thing.

[Akula69]

and thank you for the useful information

 

What I was saying is - the stress on the steering unit PLUS the vaccum leak from the manifold will run the idle down to the numbers you posted. Not trying to be a smart @$$, but your symptoms seem to provide the answer. Some other ideas would be leaking or unplugged vaccum lines, or a defective vaccum line (you said you replaced them).

 

Try this: With a manifold leak your idle should start out steady (when cold) and gradually climb as the engine becomes warm. There may also be a slight whine that sounds as if it is coming from the tranmission. Start the truck (and don't play with the steering). If the idle begins to climb on its own, unplug the vaccum line going to the MAP sensor - the engine should drop down to a 'loping' idle. If its not a vaccum leak - the engine will die.

 

You can also easily check for vaccum leaks using carb cleaner: start engine and let it warm up, then carefully spray a jet of carb cleaner at each vaccum fitting and listen for a change in the idle. If none, then CAREFULLY spray it along the intake manifold, again listening for an idle change. I say carefully because the exhaust manifild is hot and will ignite the carb cleaner if you use too much.

 

Get back with us after those two tests.

[cruiser54]

Fix the frickin' leak first. You know it's an issue. Could be as simple as tightening some intake bolts and/or spraying some vacuum hoses/connections.

 

Studies have shown that more MJs get fixed out in the garage/driveway than in the living room using a keyboard and monitor.

[anti-christ-comanche]

hey guys just wanna apologize for freaking out i was in a bad mood the last couple days i did do the carb cleaner test awhile back and ya ik i need to fix the leak i just don't have the means to right now. just wanted to say thanks and apologize for being a jerk.

[mvusse]

For one thing, it seems to be missing badly. Could just be the leak, or it could be distributor cap. Since you said you're going to be replacing the cap, rotor and coil anyway, I would say, do that, fix the intake leak, and then see if you still have issues.

 

No point trying to figure out a problem when it may very well be solved by fixing what you know is bad and doing what you seem to be going to do anyway.