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1990 2.5L bleeding cooling system? lower hose replacement.


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Hey All,

My lower radiator hose is leaking. (found it today!) Will I need to bleed the cooling system after I replace the hose? My temp sensor looks pretty crusty,(Ive read the way to bleed it is loosen this sensor) is there another way to bleed the cooling system?

-Erin

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Is it a closed system? On my '87, the Temp Sensor is on the back of the block, behind the valve cover. Never heard of having to bleed a 2.5 through the temp sender. :dunno: Although, if the sender is crusty, I'd suggest you replace it. Shouldn't be more than 8 sheckles for a new sender.

 

If the truck isn't a closed system, then you shouldn't have to bleed it. I didn't when I replaced the upper and lower rad. hoses. Although I did spend some $ on a Stant pressure release valve cap for the radiator. Whenever I release the pressure in the rad. the excess air bubbles into the overflow tank.

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I have had the rad drained a few times now. Once completely drained the Tstat will not allow coolant to flow and it will overheat quickly. What works for me is to fill the rad and then idle until heat approaches 220 or so then shut down, this will allow the stat to heat up enough to open. Restart after a couple of minutes, repeat until stat opens.

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Turns out, its the water pump....What a stupid place to put a weep hole.

You ain't the the first :brows: The other curve is the thermostat housing , drips coolant the same way onto the lower hose . My regular maintenance now is to replace the pump, thermostat ( & flat file housing , seal with aviation gasket seal ) every 2 years . I've done it road-side way too many times :shake: no more .Needless to say, don't over-tighten the serpentine belt . Cheers :cheers: Gord

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Thanks man. I almost threw the keys in it and pushed it out into the street. Upper hose clamp would not budge (the one behind the PS pump) I had to cut the clamp off with a dremel....only to find the water pump is shot....Tomorrow's fun will be a new water pump.

-E.

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