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What do you mean by 'close'? 1/8 inch? 1/2 inch? 2inches? Is the ID of the pilot bushing correct size for the input shaft? Is the spline count on the clutch disc and the input shaft the same?

 

I would say about an inch. I have the correct pilot bushing and checked this before the install. I also made sure the clutch disc went on the input shaft before I did the install.

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Did you use a proper alignment tool when installing the clutch?

 

Whenever I would get to the point of knowing that the pilot tip was in the bearing and the splines were engaged, I would get a longer bolt for the bottom two bolts, and thread them in to pull the trans up to the motor. When I did it on my 2.5(may not be possible with the AX-15/4.0), I got the trans sitting on the crossmember without the mount, got under the truck, benchpressed the trans, and just wiggled the f*cker until it popped in.

 

Make sure there is NOTHING pinched/going to be pinched between the block and bellhousing.

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Put it in gear and turn the output shaft while pushing. Sometimes they can be a real booger. I have spent an hour trying to get one together and after getting totally PO'D I would take a coffee break or sometimes even over nite. When I came back to it, it would fall into place. Are using two bolts in the block to guide and help support the weight?

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What cut off bolts?

 

If you mean the two alignment dowels on each side of the block that the two bolts go through, YOU NEED THOSE. We were missing one when we swapped my brother's motor, and one of the bolts fell out, causing some major clutch/starter problems for him when I was 600 miles away.

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Take two bolts about 3-5 inches long that fit the threads in the block. Cut the heads off. Or use two studs.Screw them into the bottom two holes of the block. Start the tranny onto them. Sometimes you can seat it just by wiggling and pushing. If you can get within an inch or less then take at least two bolts and start them thru the bell housing into the block. I prefer one bolt in every hole rather than just the two. Tighten them finger tight. Inspect the gap between the block and bell housing. It should be equal distance all around. If not, correct it by wiggling, pushing on tail shaft. Now, tighten each bolt 1/2 turn criss crossing back and forth between the bolts. Tighten them equally, not one more than another. This should draw the trans up. It's very easy to crack a bell housing doing this so go easy. If it starts getting tight, then back off. Remove every thing and inspect it again. There's something wrong. After getting all the bolts started, remove the two studs and replace them with the regular bolts. Cutting a slot in the end of the two modified studs for a screw driver will help removing them.

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Put it in gear and turn the output shaft while pushing. Sometimes they can be a real booger. I have spent an hour trying to get one together and after getting totally PO'D I would take a coffee break or sometimes even over nite. When I came back to it, it would fall into place. Are using two bolts in the block to guide and help support the weight?

 

 

 

This. :)

 

I used a ratchet strap on mine to keep a slight amount of tension on the trans towards the engine....very slight. Then wiggle the trans in all directions until it falls into place. The pilot shaft is not finding the pilot bearing.

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Never thought about a ratchet strap. have to remember that. Have used a Port-A-Power tho. The problem is the input shaft is either missing the bushing center or the splines on the input shaft and clutch disc (k)? aren't lining up. By putting it in gear and turning the the output shaft it will line them up. Did have a kid helping me once. Was a trade school grad. Was trying to put a 23 spline shaft into a 21 spline disc.

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Did you tighten the pressure plate bolts evenly? Could you re-insert the alignment tool after tightening the pressure plate bolts? It needs to be precise... if your tool is worn out and sloppy the transmission may not engage the disc completely. Did you grease the nose of the input shaft?

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Did you tighten the pressure plate bolts evenly? Could you re-insert the alignment tool after tightening the pressure plate bolts? It needs to be precise... if your tool is worn out and sloppy the transmission may not engage the disc completely. Did you grease the nose of the input shaft?

 

I had no problems with the clutch alignment. I also put grease on the nose of the input shaft.

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This may or may not be relative to apexjeepinjoe's problem. NEVER, NEVER just blindly assume that that shiny new part your walking out of the parts store with is the correct one. I don't know how many times I've tried to fit something new I had just bought onto something come to find out it was the wrong part. Sometimes it's mis understanding between you and the parts clerk. Sometimes the clerk reads the wrong info. Sometimes it's a wrong item in the right package. Always assemble or test fit the parts on the garage floor BEFORE trying to install them on the truck.

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Did you tighten the pressure plate bolts evenly? Could you re-insert the alignment tool after tightening the pressure plate bolts? It needs to be precise... if your tool is worn out and sloppy the transmission may not engage the disc completely. Did you grease the nose of the input shaft?

 

I had no problems with the clutch alignment. I also put grease on the nose of the input shaft.

 

Well, if you don't ask, you don't know. The last transmission I put in my gto was a pita! I double checked it with the alignment tool and it would barely go back in... had to loosen and re-tighten the pressure plate until the alignment tool would engage with ease. The transmission literally jumped in the next attempt. Good luck, it can be quite frustrating at times.

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I used the closest clutch tool I could find. I had to put a little tape on it.

I sort of think that wrapping some tape around a clutch alignment tool that's "close" is probably not going to get the job done. We used to have a saying in the Army: "Close only counts with horseshoes and hand grenades."

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I used the closest clutch tool I could find. I had to put a little tape on it.

I sort of think that wrapping some tape around a clutch alignment tool that's "close" is probably not going to get the job done. We used to have a saying in the Army: "Close only counts with horseshoes and hand grenades."

 

Well even testing the clutch disc on the input shaft on the bench that disc was really tight.

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I used the closest clutch tool I could find. I had to put a little tape on it.

I sort of think that wrapping some tape around a clutch alignment tool that's "close" is probably not going to get the job done. We used to have a saying in the Army: "Close only counts with horseshoes and hand grenades."

 

Well even testing the clutch disc on the input shaft on the bench that disc was really tight.

Okay.

 

But SOMETHING is interfering. I've bench pressed enough transmissions onto engines lying under the car on a gravel driveway to have learned that it doesn't take much misalignment to prevent the transmission from bolting up.

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Well I got it this afternoon. I knew it was close. I dropped it down a little lower and the 2 main side bolts started to thread. I went back forth on each side and snugged them up and then put the 2 top bolts in and all is good. Now come to find out my transmission mount will not work since it is from a Wrangler.

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