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Posted

hey guys, just making sure I have everything lined up and ready to make the swap as quick as possible.

 

Getting the AX15 mated to an NP231 out of a 95 XJ, so no issues on the input spline there. (also has the external slave, score!)

 

As far as master cylinder, the one in my 87 MJ will be just fine (installed new one yesterday). The clutch line to the slave will be a custom steel braided -3AN line, so no issues there either. (side ?: what is the connection size going into the slave cylinder? is it 7/16"-24...)

 

From what I've read from searches here and on jeepforum, I'm gonna need the pilot bushing out of a 74 CJ with the 304...not modifications are necessary for this part though...thought I read someone somewhere saying he had to machine the OD down, but the ID is perfect...

 

as far as the flywheel, I think I need to keep that from my MJ, and I'm planning to keep the clutch plate in my MJ, and just use the fork from the XJ?

still thinking that one over....might just go with a new clutch kit for it anyway...that way I know it's all fresh. (and i can get the sachs kit for $100 at work)

 

a couple places said i need to grab the 4x4 shift linkage from the donor...why is this? unless the tcase is clocked differently from an 87MJ to a 95XJ (which i don't think it is), I should just be able to use my existing linkage.

 

missing anything else?

 

TIA guys....can't wait to get this thing rolling!!

Posted

The linkage issue is that the BA 10/5 and AX-15 used different bracketry, so that's why you need the new stuff from the donor, no issues with clocking.

 

AFAIK the 74 CJ 304 bushing is going to have the correct ID and OD.

 

You MUST use your current flywheel. You cannot use a 95 (HO) flywheel in an 87 (Renix). The clutch itself won't have a problem, but it's moot since your truck will not run. The windows for the CPS are different between Renix and HO.

 

Your current clutch and PP will also work, although if you can afford it, it might not be a bad idea to change it out anyway if it's showing any kinds of wear. You have to use the fork from the XJ, your MJ is currently and internal slave and doesn't have a fork.

 

You need the AX-15 trans crossmember. The AX-15 crossmember has a dip in the middle for the mount, and using a Pukey/AX-5/AW-4 crossmember will raise your trans up a bit, which would tuck the trans up higher and mess up your U-joints.

 

Your driveshafts are good as the BA 10/5 and AX-15 are the same length.

Posted

When i put the cj pilot bushing in it seemed to stick out a little far and after researching no one mentioned shortening it so i left it. Now once in a while i get a squealing in 1st n 2nd.

 

Not sure if thats the cause but if i had shortened it a hair it would be one less thing it may be. So before you yank the original out maybe take some measurements then compare to the cj one once installed.

Everything else you see to be good. You will have to resplice your tail lights but its only 2 wires.

Posted
You will have to resplice your tail lights but its only 2 wires.

 

You mean the plug for the back up lights don't you?

 

As for the linkage, don't forget to get the part that is bolted to the tranny tunnel you will need it.

 

you'll have to pull the carpet up from the passenger compartment to remove the 4 bolts holding it on. IMO, if I can get away with it I

 

just cut the carpet in that area, much easier than pulling seats and trim.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

As for the linkage, don't forget to get the part that is bolted to the tranny tunnel you will need it.

 

you'll have to pull the carpet up from the passenger compartment to remove the 4 bolts holding it on. IMO, if I can get away with it I

 

just cut the carpet in that area, much easier than pulling seats and trim.

 

 

I used the later XJ linkage bolted only to the trans on mine

Posted

I literally 'just' did this swap, as in two days ago.

 

Here's the major problem I had -

 

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=34700&start=0

 

Removing the pilot bearing spacer...it took me two days to finally get it.

 

 

Also, the cross member location on the frame rails is DIFFERENT between the Puegot and AX, the Puegot uses the front 8 mounting positions, the AX uses the BACK 8 mounting positions; if you can't thread bolts securely into the back weld nuts, I wouldn't do this swap until you're ready to fix that. I figured this out at 11:00 at night and only had two weld nuts left, I drove it home on two bolts...scary.

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