SubSonic Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 I recently pulled all of the parts for my conversion from my 1990 donor vehicle to put into my 1991. I've already swapped the front end. Both vehicles are AX-15 trucks and the transfer case is a 231. I'm getting the drive shaft shortened on Friday. Will the current nose shaft match the new setup? What would the length need to be to accomodate a 4 inch lift? (short wheel base) Also, the transfer case mounting plate was a pain to get out so I cut the carpet on my doner. (this is the plate that is on the driver side of the 4x4 handle.) How would you recommend getting to this area, will carpet removal be required? Thanks guys, just trying to get this done without too many surprises. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 Remove the carpet. It will make the job easier plus giving you the opportunity to check and clean up any floor rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubSonic Posted January 19, 2012 Author Share Posted January 19, 2012 I'm not too concerned about rust given my climate, but it never hurts to look. Thanks. Anyone have a bit of insight on the drive shaft, or should I just measure and have it shortened. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 climate doesn't matter much when it comes to our floors. :( there's a thread in the DIY forum with driveshaft lengths. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubSonic Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 Well I took the seats out and peeked under the carpet. And..... factory paint. It looks really quite, quite good given the age. I am pleased. Now I'll attempt to get a drill and get the predimpled locations drilled out :banana: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubSonic Posted January 21, 2012 Author Share Posted January 21, 2012 Ok, so I've realized that I will need to set up vacuum for the front axle engagement unit from the T-case. If I don't want to simply keep it engaged all the time and plug the T-case vacuum ports, what is the easist vacuum routing for it? Or is it simply not worth setting it up like that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dadinator Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Lock it over and forget about it. It doesn't keep 4X4 engaged all the time. It is simply keeping the axles engaged together like a 1 piece axle. It still is 2WD when you put it in 2WD. The front driveshaft is not powering the front axle unless you switch to 4WD. This is why Jeep did away with it in the early 90's. It was troublesome and didn't do any good for MPG in the firstplace. Jeeps have now had a 1 piece axle for 20 years. Locking it over simply makes it behave like all other Jeeps for the last 20 years. I locked mine over. Just one more thing I don't have to worry about going bad anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 I'm not too concerned about rust given my climate, but it never hurts to look. Thanks. Anyone have a bit of insight on the drive shaft, or should I just measure and have it shortened. Thanks again. Climate often isn't the problem. many MJs and XJs have wet floors due to leaks at the windshield or around the fuse panel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeep Driver Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Why would you swap in a CAD axle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubSonic Posted January 24, 2012 Author Share Posted January 24, 2012 Because its what my donor came with. I already engaged the fork and moved the e-clip, so no big deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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