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Turn, Click, DEAD


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88 MJ 4.0

 

 

 

Battery reads 12.6 v

Starter relay to ground 12.6 v

Starter to ground 12.6 v

 

Turn key, relay clicks, then all power dead. No click, nothin', but I still get 12.6v all around.

Is 12.6v not enough to turn it over.

Starter or Ignition switch??? Both of unknown age.

Alternator ~ newish! Battery 12.6v :dunno:

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Loose, dirty, corroded connection. It only takes a couple microamps for a Volt reading thus a dirty connection won't show. It takes almost a 100Amps to run a starter. Have someone hold the ign to 'start' or use a remote starter button. Hold it down. Feel all terminals and see if any are getting warm.

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Loose, dirty, corroded connection. It only takes a couple microamps for a Volt reading thus a dirty connection won't show. It takes almost a 100Amps to run a starter. Have someone hold the ign to 'start' or use a remote starter button. Hold it down. Feel all terminals and see if any are getting warm.

 

^^^this here good advice^^^

 

I need a helper for sure. No kids left for free labor.

 

Connections are clean, brushed, steel to steel, dilectric grease. Grounded at the dipstick and firewall with #4 cable, additional ground at battery to fender well. All the cables are new-ish <1 yr. There are no loose connections.

 

I'm going to swap out the ignition switch with a new one I already have...we'll see what happens.

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Remove the cables from the battery. Get a set of jumper cables. Hook one cable direct to the battery neg post. Hook the other end direct to the starter body. Lower mounting bolts good. Hook one end of the other cable direct to the starter input post. Connect the other end of the cable to the battery Pos post. This will confirm or eliminate the starter. Hook a wire from the pos bat terminal direct to the relay. Or just use screwdriver and hold it against the hot wire at the top of the solenoid and the sol terminal, the middle one. This will confirm whether the solenoid is ok or not. Take your test light, everybody has a test light, right? connect one end to ground. Connect the other lead to the solenoid wire, after removing it from the sol, Now turn the ign sw to 'start' . If the sw is good the bulb will light. I wish my problem was so simple. My '93 ZJ has a direct short in the main wiring harness. This was determined after completely removing all 4 parking lights, assemblies, the complete dash and IP and disconnecting all plugs in the circuit. Right now I.m contemplating my options.

1. Go ahead and find and fix it.

2. Install another sw on the dash and run another wire to the parking lights, or

3. Junk it.

Did I just hijack a thread?

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I'm going to swap out the ignition switch with a new one I already have...we'll see what happens.

 

Are you referring to the ignition starter switch on the column? Good possibility if so. Check the ignition starter switch, left side of the lower steering column. Press the switch by hand tight to the column and try to start. If not, remove and look for burnt contacts on the switch and it's connector.

 

G_21559G_SW_1.jpg

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Yes, the one on the column. So the new ignition switch is in, old one has no signs of burns, but there is more corrosion than I'd like to see in an electrical connector. I've had it all on the charger all night just to make sure it was NOT the battery. It's sitting there waiting for me now, til I get off work.

 

If it's not the battery, and not the ign. switch, I'll use the diagnostics that jimoshel posted. I hate to replace the starter but that looks like the direction I'm headed.

 

The starter is pretty much the only piece and/or part that I hain't replaced in the whole building of this thing.

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Ignition switch replaced - no change

 

I whacked the starter - no change.

 

I jumped it off my XJ - started right up, took off the cables, ran it for 10 minutes. Alt is charging at 14.5v. Shut it down for 30 seconds - Turn, click, dead. Bum battery - Wal-Mart warranty...only 10 mos old.

 

Pick that up tomorrow...if it doesn't change I'll go break a bottle or something (after I carefully empty it).

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Wal-Mart

 

Problem found.

 

Yeah, I kinda didn't want to put another POS battery in there but theres the warranty thing!! Might be worth it in the long run to just go and buy a GOOD battery. However, I have used WM batteries for years and no probs.

 

I'm just happy to have narrowed it down. Fixed.

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Call up your nearest Interstate Battery place, and ask if they have a blemish battery in stock. They should, the MJ battery is pretty standard. A blemish interstate is a battery that is returned or reconditioned, and tested in good shape. They are stickerless, have no warranty, but hey, it's a friggen interstate.

 

It's the only thing I run anymore... Same with the guys I work with. He's had one trucking along in his parents snow bird vehicle for 5 years.

 

Did I mention they are only about $30?

 

Rob

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Glad its fixed.

 

:agree:

 

They are stickerless, have no warranty, but hey, it's a friggen interstate.Rob

 

I'd rather have a warranty.

 

I have yet to have a problem, but to each his own.

 

You made me think of one of my favorite movies, Tommy Boy:

 

"But why do they put a guarantee on the box?"

 

"Because they know all they sold ya was a guaranteed piece of $#!&amp;. That's all it is, isn't it? Hey, if you want me to take a dump in a box and mark it guaranteed, I will. I got spare time. But for now, for your customer's sake, for your daughter's sake, ya might wanna think about buying a quality product from me. "

 

Rob :cheers:

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You're right, to each his own. I used Interstate batteries exclusively for years, but the last few I bought (mostly motorcycle batteries) have been crap. I have five vehicles now, and all of them have the Autozone Duralast yellow tops. The oldest is eight; the youngest three. And they're not that expensive to begin with.

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You're right, to each his own. I have five vehicles now, and all of them have the Autozone Duralast yellow tops.

 

My yellow Duralast battery has been in my XJ for 5-6 years...it's got more stamina than I do, for sure. I found a few month old Die-Hard in my shop. Been in the plastic box since December, it reads 11.5. It's on the charger overnight...we'll see. Might not have to buy a new one.

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