lexluthier72 Posted October 6, 2011 Posted October 6, 2011 Hey All, I of course know, the steering components in my MJ are 21 years old, and thus worn. I was wondering if anyone had a list of what to fix/change in order of importance to improve the steering stability, Obviously I can't afford to do it all at the same time. I did a basic check of ball joints/tie rod ends, and they are solid. There is minimal play in the pass side wheel bearing, but from what I read in the manual, thats normal. The goal is to make the truck able to do long(er) trips without worry about the front end. Keep in mind, its a stock truck, no lift. -Erin p.s.- Where is everyone getting replacement parts for all the linkage/bushings, etc?!?
Naterenfo1 Posted October 6, 2011 Posted October 6, 2011 Grab an extra person, have them turn the wheels side to side while you stick your head under there, and visually look at the components move. That's the best way to find out what is worn. Your steering stabilizer is a $20.00 part that you can replace with a 3/8" ratchet in no time at all, replacing that will help with the death wobble and bump steer. You can also go in for an alignment, that will help with tire wear and tracking straight. Even a tire balance/rotation could help. How did you check tie rod ends and ball joints? out of curiosity...
lexluthier72 Posted October 6, 2011 Author Posted October 6, 2011 by doing the standard 12/6, 9/3 position wiggle when the tires were up in the air. That at least told me they are not falling apart. Is there another way?
glundblad Posted October 6, 2011 Posted October 6, 2011 My truck has been lightly used but the steering stabilizer was shot a couple of years ago. The steering wheel vibrated above 50mph. I replaced it with an OEM version. It eliminated the shake/vibrate and it drove fine. Later, I decided to put an OME stabilizer (Old Man Emu) in. I was amazed at the difference between the OEM verses OME.
HOrnbrod Posted October 6, 2011 Posted October 6, 2011 ^^^ :agree: Also check the steering gear box for excess play; it's a common problem. Eagle posted the correct adjustment procedure here at the bottom of the page: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=32106&p=319146&hilit=steering+adjustment#p319146
lexluthier72 Posted October 6, 2011 Author Posted October 6, 2011 Thanks guys...I'll start there. :wrench:
lexluthier72 Posted October 7, 2011 Author Posted October 7, 2011 I believe I have found the offending part. The steering box bolts are loose. I now have to figure out how to get to them without tearing everything apart. -E.
ParadiseMJ Posted October 7, 2011 Posted October 7, 2011 While you have it apart, check your uniframe bolt areas for cracks and/or "metal fatigue". Might be contributing to the bolts loosening.
HOrnbrod Posted October 7, 2011 Posted October 7, 2011 Also, between the gear box and frame there's an aluminum spacer. They tend to disintegrate over time in corrosion maximus areas such as yours. :( This could explain why the box mounting bolts are loose. Check it out, along with the uniframe bolt areas as Paradise mentioned.
lexluthier72 Posted October 7, 2011 Author Posted October 7, 2011 Hey guys...my offending creak has turned into a CLUNK. I tightened up the steering box (top bolt was loose) spacer is there, and in good shape. NO CHANGE!!! Grr! I also did a chassis lube to everything I could see with a grease fitting. NO CHANGE! I did the classic wheel check, and nothing seems oddly loose, and I could not make anything "clunk" When I'm inside with the truck running If I make hard turns I can hear it clunk inside the cab. It almost feels like its in the steering column, even though I know things can radiate. I am officially stumped. I am done for the night. Any suggestions on what next would be great. -Erin Edit: I also posted a specific thread on the problem I'm having.....
Eagle Posted October 7, 2011 Posted October 7, 2011 by doing the standard 12/6, 9/3 position wiggle when the tires were up in the air. That at least told me they are not falling apart. Is there another way? Yes. You can't check anything with the tires off the ground, unless the parts are falling aapart. Tires ON the ground, steering straight ahead. You need an assistant. Turn the key to unlock. Don't start the engine, just unlock the steering column. Now -- have your assistant turn the steering wheel back and forth through the range that ALMOST turns the tires, but not quite. The idea is to not actually move the tread patch on the ground, but to load the various tie rod ends, pitman arm, track bar, etc. While your helper wiggles the steering wheel back and forth, you crawl underneath and put your hand on each fitting in turn. Wear nitrile exam gloves. You can FEEL a tie rod end flexing against the part it fits into even if your eye can't see the movement. Check tie rod ends (inner and outer), upper and lower end of the track bar, the TRE end of the pitman arm, and also feel for lateral flex of the steering box output shaft (the spline that the pitman arm attaches to). You can use the same method to check (visually, this time) for excess over center free play in the steering box. Again, move the steering wheel back and forth while standing outside the vehicle and watching the left front tire. Do NOT actually turn the tire -- just turn the wheel through the pre-move-the-tire range. There should be almost zero actual "free" (as in loosey goosey) play across center. It should transition from slight resistance left to slight resistance right almost instantly.
Eagle Posted October 7, 2011 Posted October 7, 2011 When I'm inside with the truck running If I make hard turns I can hear it clunk inside the cab. Lower control arm.
lexluthier72 Posted October 7, 2011 Author Posted October 7, 2011 Found it. Inner tie rod end on the pitman arm. Popping in and out. Had my wife get in and crank on the wheel.... :D
HOrnbrod Posted October 7, 2011 Posted October 7, 2011 Found it. Inner tie rod end on the pitman arm. Popping in and out. Had my wife get in and crank on the wheel.... :D Actually that's the drag link end attached to the Pitman arm. Entirely different animal than a tie rod end. :cheers:
lexluthier72 Posted October 7, 2011 Author Posted October 7, 2011 Apparently at the parts store they call it an "inner tie rod end" Half of em didn't have a clue. I'm going to pick it up shortly, so I will know whether or not they got it right. I know the difference tho. -E.
kyleag89 Posted October 8, 2011 Posted October 8, 2011 I just went through this ordering parts from the idiots at the parts store. No matter how many times I told them what I needed they still tried to give me the wrong part! It is called inner tie rod AT pitman arm according to there computer.
lexluthier72 Posted October 8, 2011 Author Posted October 8, 2011 ^^^I got the very same response, and at O'Reilly's the guy didn't have a clue what I was talking about.... :fs1: Edit: Hey Mods, is there a way to delete this thread or merge it with my other thread?
lexluthier72 Posted October 11, 2011 Author Posted October 11, 2011 Hey Guys...still not fixed. :fs1: See my other thread "intermittent steering creak" I'm slightly stumped. -E.
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