lexluthier72 Posted October 22, 2011 Author Share Posted October 22, 2011 "Speaking of velcro , let the strips set for no less than 48 hrs. at room temp. or you will be doing it again very shortly , I had to learn the hard way , just to impatient" Dang...its about 65 degrees here during the day right now....I suppose that means get the velcro on the truck at the warmest point in the day. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaquaro Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 Vaquaro, I gotta know how does your "C-Channel" mount on to the front rail? I can see no easy way to mount somthing like that unless it was attached to an angled piece of aluminum and bolted through the top. There is simply not enough room to get between the cab and the box?!?-E. The channel mounts on top of the front box rail with a few small self-tapping screws , I'll dig thru my spare parts bin and try to get you a picture . It's a very common piece that you should be able to source at any RV parts store or dealer. ( feature a flat stock with a tube attached that has been cut open to form a C) ..... "--C " ...this would be the cross section , with the C facing the cab . :wrench: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaquaro Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 "Speaking of velcro , let the strips set for no less than 48 hrs. at room temp. or you will be doing it again very shortly , I had to learn the hard way , just to impatient" Dang...its about 65 degrees here during the day right now....I suppose that means get the velcro on the truck at the warmest point in the day. :D Borrow the wifes hair dryer , clean the heck out of the area you plan to attach the velcro to and let the velcro set up for a day or two before subjecting it to any pressure . It's too bad we don't live closer , it would be much simpler for you to be able to see how it works rather than my lame attempt to explain / describe the details . Keep the questions coming I'll do my best to give you the best info I can :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted October 22, 2011 Author Share Posted October 22, 2011 no worries. I think we have devised a good plan. The nearest place to get that C-channel is almost 2 hours away. I found some J-hooks that I can modifiy into hold downs for the rod, and once in place the canvas will wrap over the j-hooks and back toward the tailgate. The J-hooks are almost as wide as the front rail, so I do not think water leakage will be an issue. A Lo-tech work around. We start sewing today. :banana: Edit: The C-channel that is available aftermarket would only mount to the front or back of the rail, and not to the top, as there is no "top mount" type of tab. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaquaro Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 no worries. I think we have devised a good plan. The nearest place to get that C-channel is almost 2 hours away. I found some J-hooks that I can modifiy into hold downs for the rod, and once in place the canvas will wrap over the j-hooks and back toward the tailgate. The J-hooks are almost as wide as the front rail, so I do not think water leakage will be an issue. A Lo-tech work around. We start sewing today. :banana: Edit: The C-channel that is available aftermarket would only mount to the front or back of the rail, and not to the top, as there is no "top mount" type of tab. :shake: The world is 3 dimentional , yes the channel does fasten to the top , yes they are readily available ( all RV awning mfr.s use the same extrusion ) . Maybe the best bet is to get off your wallet and spend the extra $30 for a professionally made cover .....It will be cheaper in the long run at this rate......Good luck :wavey: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted October 23, 2011 Author Share Posted October 23, 2011 Vaquaro....I do have an "in" at the sewing store. :D The cover materials got purchased, and the cover is made. I used some J-hooks to fasten the front "rod" into place. Honestly, I could not find the correct C-channel extrusion, and the nearest RV accessory place is almost 2 hours away, and did NOT have the correct extrusion. (they only had the "side" mount. I did make the rod removeable in case I do find the extrusion. We finished sewing up the canvas this evening. It came out great. With some extra supplies, it ran $70. I will post a photo tomorrow of what it looks like and the front mount I came up with. -E. again, I did make the canvas "modifiable" in case I find the correct front rail extrusion, it can easily be changed to accept the C-channel when I find it. Thanks so much for all your input!!! I'm pretty happy for $70, and it looks professionally done. (I have a friend who sells industrial sewing machines, and my mother in law owns one of those machines) We did it right. Knowing the right folks helped immensly....Now If I could find that stinking extrusion. I guess finding locally is the issue....but what I came up with works very well. Thanks again! p.s.- The cheapest I could find for a "custom" cover was $230! (I can't justify that) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaquaro Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 :chillin: Glad it worked out for you :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted October 23, 2011 Author Share Posted October 23, 2011 This is the extrusion I keep finding. IF this is correct, It was my mis-understanding that the "C" part of the channel stuck up in the air like that. I was under the assumption that IF the extrusion were mounted to the front rail, that the "C" part of the extrusion would end up sitting lower between the cab and the bed. Is this the correct extrusion? (this is the only type my "local" RV place sells....and they are 2 hours away. If it is the correct one, I may order one up and modify the mount later. (easily done with how I have it set up currently) http://www.rochfordsupply.com/shop/Boat ... index.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted October 23, 2011 Author Share Posted October 23, 2011 Photo tomorrow in the sunlight. I couldn't have done it without your photo!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryno56 Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 That is definitely the extrusion he is talking about. I put the same cover on a Ram 50 a few years ago. The bar sits flat on the top of the box rail with the 'C' pointing towards the cab. Then the rod inside the front of the cover slides through it and the cover wraps over the top of it as you pull it tight towards the rear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted October 23, 2011 Author Share Posted October 23, 2011 Ryno.....Cool! Thanks. I will probably order up a length of it very soon! -Erin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted October 23, 2011 Author Share Posted October 23, 2011 Here are the materials: 2.5 yards of 60" wide Duck Canvas, 4 Galvanized J-hooks, One plastic coated 3/8ths aluminum rod, 20 feet of 2" wide velcro Here are the J-hooks installed, holding the rod in place. (rod is inside a loop in the canvas) Here we are, test fitting the canvas. The reason it does not look tight is, we only used spot strips of velcro on the bed to test fit the canvas. Velcro will be applied to the length of the bed rails, and the top of the tailgate. No sun yet today.... :( I have to pick up some waterproofing for it (west marine store) and some conduit/pvc tube for some supports in the middle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryno56 Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 The only thing I would have done differently is to have it wrap over the edge of the box rail. Your way might let water seep over the edge of the canvas and unstick the velcro. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted October 23, 2011 Author Share Posted October 23, 2011 Yeah, I thought about that, but did not want to do a 2-piece cover with a seam down the middle. There is actually about a 1/2 inch between the velcro and the edge of the canvas, and the canvas when tight does actually come right to the very edge of the bed rail. The widest canvas available was 60 inches. (exactly the width of the bed to the outside edge of the rails) IF it does become a problem, I can always add a "flap" on the sides. After I get it waterproofed, I will be sure to report how it works. The velcro I got for the bed rails was "industrial" The test strips I put on yesterday, I had to pull off with a vice grips today. Strong stuff!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaquaro Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 This is the extrusion I keep finding. IF this is correct, It was my mis-understanding that the "C" part of the channel stuck up in the air like that. I was under the assumption that IF the extrusion were mounted to the front rail, that the "C" part of the extrusion would end up sitting lower between the cab and the bed. Is this the correct extrusion? (this is the only type my "local" RV place sells....and they are 2 hours away. If it is the correct one, I may order one up and modify the mount later. (easily done with how I have it set up currently) http://www.rochfordsupply.com/shop/Boat ... index.html It mounts on top of the front box rail with opening towards the cab if you are using a sewn loop or rearward if you are using the pre-made sew on welt . The former gives a more custom look as it hides the channel . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted October 23, 2011 Author Share Posted October 23, 2011 Sweet. Currently, the length is absolutely spot on for the clamps I used, but if I end up getting this extrusion, I can add some length to the tailgate end without too much hassle. As soon as the on/off rain stops, I will be putting the velcro down on the box, and waterproofing the canvas. All materials to DIY $80 (includes waterproofing spray) This of course means, you need to know someone who can sew, and has a machine that will sew HD canvas. Thanks folks for all the tips/tricks/hints!!! -E. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted October 23, 2011 Author Share Posted October 23, 2011 Hey Vaquaro....are your "mid supports" fixed (screwed down) or do they "float" under the cover? I picked up some conduit to make some of them. -E. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue XJ Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 I bought the Velcro one that was posted earlier for $75 from truckaccessories.com a couple years ago. It worked great and didn't leak, the Velcro was insane too, it took me hours and hours to peel it off my bed when I painted it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted October 24, 2011 Author Share Posted October 24, 2011 Yep...Paint came up when I pulled off my "test" strips of velcro...(spot was already damaged) but honestly, I did use a vice grips to pull it up. Amazing stuff. The cover posted earlier seems to be discontinued, but I think I got pretty close with some creative engineering. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaquaro Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 Hey Vaquaro....are your "mid supports" fixed (screwed down) or do they "float" under the cover? I picked up some conduit to make some of them.-E. Ya they will float , so I fabbed up a lock tab ( sliding window locks w/thumbscrews ) to keep them in place . Have you discovered the bed width tapers about 1" front to back ? :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted October 24, 2011 Author Share Posted October 24, 2011 Yep. hahaha. The canvas stretches enough that its hardly noticeable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vaquaro Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 Great job on the cover :thumbsup: Doesn't look like the channel will be neccessary , your design will work just fine . The upgrade to 2" velcro really makes sense compared to the 1" on most Factory made covers , as the cover will shrink/stretch with time and temperature ( I ended up having to put a 2nd strip on ) :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted October 25, 2011 Author Share Posted October 25, 2011 Thanks! Seriously, I could not have done it without your photo and info. The J-hooks seem to be working just fine, and it means I did not have to drill the top of the rail. I could not find 1" velcro in the "industrial" stuff...but I like your thinking. I'm just waiting for the on and off rain to stop so I can apply the velcro to the bed rail, and waterproof the canvas. -Erin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btm24 Posted October 25, 2011 Share Posted October 25, 2011 Nice job :cheers: Now make 10 of them and see if you can sell any ;) Brandon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lexluthier72 Posted October 25, 2011 Author Share Posted October 25, 2011 I'm guessing thats why they've been discontinued.... :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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