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everybody's opinion on the best track bars


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I see on rear link systems, people are trying to keep their track bars as horizontal as possible. What is the reasoning for not doing this in the front?

 

Not trying to threadjack, but if this is important, shouldn't it be addressed?

 

While the track bar should be as horizontal and as long as possible, it's also important that it match the drag link in length and angle. Otherwise bumpsteer will occur offroad (which is when your steering wheel moves back and forth while the tires are only moving up and down over obstacles). How much the angular difference affects the steering response depends a lot on your steering setup. I've got the dreaded Ford inverted-T draglink and trackbar and so there's plenty of dead space in the steering and I'm not sure if I've got any bumpsteer. :roll:

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I've got the dreaded Ford inverted-T draglink and trackbar and so there's plenty of dead space in the steering and I'm not sure if I've got any bumpsteer. :roll:

 

 

 

Take some 13/16th machine washers and put them between the TRE and steering knuckle, below the dust boot. It'll stop the tie-rod from rolling and remove the vaugeness.

 

 

And bumpsteer is really more where you hold the wheel straight and hit a bump, and even though the wheel is still straight the tires turn due to the suspension travel.

 

 

Basically, if you hit a speedbump and your truck pulls a lane change - you've got bumpsteer.

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I've got the dreaded Ford inverted-T draglink and trackbar and so there's plenty of dead space in the steering and I'm not sure if I've got any bumpsteer. :roll:

 

 

 

Take some 13/16th machine washers and put them between the TRE and steering knuckle, below the dust boot. It'll stop the tie-rod from rolling and remove the vaugeness.

 

 

And bumpsteer is really more where you hold the wheel straight and hit a bump, and even though the wheel is still straight the tires turn due to the suspension travel.

 

 

Basically, if you hit a speedbump and your truck pulls a lane change - you've got bumpsteer.

 

this is a good tip, but a factroy part is avalible to help eliminate the TRE roll. its from a Jeep "J" series steering setup. I have them on the TJ with the JCR steering setup. JCR haden't herd of them either but couldnt find a reliable source so they are haveing them made fom poly and sold on thier site. they work quite well.

 

steeringbushinginstalled.jpg

 

 

As far as a rubber bushing wearing faster if over flexed, you are correct. But a properly set up track bar only goes up and down, it dosen't get twisted anywhere even near what a CA bushing does. Which is what I think you are refering to.

 

CW

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Actually, that funky bushing thing is on all of the FSJs. Unfortunatly, I could not get one and didn't feel like arguing about it in the parts store. The washers worked quite well for being something I have on hand.

 

 

Other than one you pull the tie-rod off you have a handful of greasy washers to put somewhere.

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I have been running my RE trac bar set-up for almost 3 yrs now, and I am very demanding of my front end when it comes to flex. I PERSONALLY have had no issues with my setup. I too have heard stories about ppl's trac bar mounts coming loose, but I have not experienced this, but I did use proper install techniques ( lock tite, lock washers and proper torque specs for the bolt size).

 

 

I would really like to see some side by side scientific testing done to see which is stronger or better. There are always situations where other variables can and do cause failures, and ppl blame said part for failing when something else gave first cause another failure.

 

 

In the end it is your money, buy what you want. Do some research first, and don't buy nothing just on what one person says, or on price

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There are always situations where other variables can and do cause failures, and ppl blame said part for failing when something else gave first cause another failure.

 

 

In the end it is your money, buy what you want. Do some research first, and don't buy nothing just on what one person says, or on price

 

VERY WELL SAID!!! :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:

 

Doing research makes you a better informed consumer. This is the best bet you have to making a good decision on whats best for you and your rig!!

 

CW

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.....But a properly set up track bar only goes up and down, .......

CW

 

Technically speaking... A track bar does move up and down, if your looking at it in a 2D view from the front... As the suspension cycles, the axle pivot point will move up and down... ( and slightly left to right)

 

BUT...

 

If you look from the side of the truck, that same axle pivot point, not only moves up and down, but from front to back in an arc... The arc which is created by your control arms...

 

So, in my mind, a perfect frame bracket, will not be perfectly vertical, (or having the trac-bar bolt perfectly horizontal)... It will be angled just enough so that its tangential to that arc created by the control arms...

 

This way would give you the most amount of flex/movement from the track bar, which the least amount of bushing deflection, which in theory, should make your bushings last longer by having a minimal amount of stress on them...

 

Just my thoughts to this discussion...

 

Ryan

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