btm24 Posted May 30, 2011 Share Posted May 30, 2011 Ever since i installed the front part of my RC 4.5" lift kit my head lights have looked 10 times brighter. Before this i only had the rear end of the lift kit installed and was sitting like a drag racer with the a$$ end of the truck up in the air. Because of this I was riding around with my bright lights on to see the road. Well since my lights are pointing forward now i went to turn off the bight lights and the head lights shut off. But the parking lights were still on. So after playing with the bright light switch i found out the only way that i had lights was to hold the bright light switch while driving. After getting home i played with the switch for a bit and got my normal low beam head lights to come on with out holding the switch but the blue bright light, light stayed on. Now if I try and turn on my bright lights the lights shut off and i have to play with that switch to get any head lights back on. I'm thinking its a bad connection some where in the steering column where the head light switch is. Any thoughts on what to do to fix this? How do i even get to the switch? Do i have to pull apart the entire steering column? Any thoughts of how to fix this would be great. thanks! Brandon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted May 30, 2011 Share Posted May 30, 2011 The actual switch is on the base of the steering column. Follow the wires from the firewall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubSonic Posted May 30, 2011 Share Posted May 30, 2011 The actual switch is on the base of the steering column. Follow the wires from the firewall. However, don't discredit the H-Beam/Blinker Post as it can also be the culprit as well if damaged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kro10000 Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 Possibly a bad ground :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btm24 Posted May 31, 2011 Author Share Posted May 31, 2011 Possibly a bad ground :dunno: What ground could it be? Brandon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kro10000 Posted May 31, 2011 Share Posted May 31, 2011 There should be a ground wire up under the dash, I'd check that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btm24 Posted May 31, 2011 Author Share Posted May 31, 2011 Ok ill check that tomarrow its starting to get to dark to try any thing. Thanks again and ill let you know if thats what it was Brandon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddzz1 Posted June 1, 2011 Share Posted June 1, 2011 The headlight switch itself could be bad too. You have to pull the knob off then there is a button up under the dash to get the switch to release. Try swapping it with another one if you have a parts truck or a friend with an MJ or XJ that you can borrow one from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted June 1, 2011 Share Posted June 1, 2011 The headlight switch itself could be bad too. You have to pull the knob off then there is a button up under the dash to get the switch to release. Try swapping it with another one if you have a parts truck or a friend with an MJ or XJ that you can borrow one from. Yep, I was thinking more this route. I had a Cherokee that the headlight switch went bad on. The switch has an internal breaker, and in my case, the headlights would cycle on and off as the breaker would cool and cycle. The only way I could keep the headlights on, was to keep the stalk back while I was driving. Eventually, I blew a headlight, and didn't have to worry about it as the one headlight was no longer enough to overheat the breaker. Anyway, I digress. Check the headlight switch. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btm24 Posted June 1, 2011 Author Share Posted June 1, 2011 Yeah but the head lights only go off (after i turned them on with the head light switch that you pull out) when I mess with the high beam switch not the head light switch its self. It only happens when the head lights are on and I go to turn on or off the high beams. :dunno: Brandon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btm24 Posted June 1, 2011 Author Share Posted June 1, 2011 ok so I just went out to take up the trash and I have no head lights at all :( So now it sounds like the head light switch. So I'm gonna look into getting a new one. Thanks Ya'll Brandoon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btm24 Posted June 12, 2011 Author Share Posted June 12, 2011 Just a quick update; today me and my dad looked at the lights and after playing with the power probe under the dash we think that the crap fog lights drawing more current and a loose connection caused the head light dimmer switch and it's Connector to burnt out. So if I replace the burnt Connector, switch and get rid of the cheepo fog lights that I should have both high and low beams again. I'll let y'all know after I do and say if it worked. Thanks again y'all for the tips! Brandon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btm24 Posted June 14, 2011 Author Share Posted June 14, 2011 Would a 92 XJ head light switch and conector work with my 89? Brandon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted June 14, 2011 Share Posted June 14, 2011 Just a quick update; today me and my dad looked at the lights and after playing with the power probe under the dash we think that the crap fog lights drawing more current and a loose connection caused the head light dimmer switch and it's Connector to burnt out. So if I replace the burnt Connector, switch and get rid of the cheepo fog lights that I should have both high and low beams again. I'll let y'all know after I do and say if it worked. Thanks again y'all for the tips! Brandon Crappy fog lights won't cause a problem unless you are drawing current through the factory switch. The factory switch isn't designed to run that many amps through it. If you want to control fogs with/through the factory switch I suggest using a relay as seen here http://www.bcae1.com/relays.htm BTW aux lights should always be run through a relay, not using a relay is just plum lazy and asking for problems. You can use the factory lighting circuit to trigger a relay thereby getting the same results as going through the switch but without the current load, study the diagrams. If you did run straight power through the switch, I would suspect either switch could be burnt. Myself I would kind of lean more towards the high beam switch because it is cycled much more often. I think the switch is adjustable by loosening it's mounting screws and moving it up or down on the column. Far as the switch from a 92, best bet is to compare. I'm guessing that a GM switch might work from the same era because it is a Saginaw column. Not sure though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btm24 Posted June 15, 2011 Author Share Posted June 15, 2011 I got the switch where the high, low beam, rod conects to the wiring harness. Thats what was burnt out. Both the 92 and my 89 switch look the same ill see what happens when i plug it in. Thanks for all of the advise yet again :bowdown: Brandon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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