Incommando Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share Posted March 4, 2014 The Initial Plan for A "Budget" SOA 5.5” lift. Front RE 5.5" Springs $87 http://mudflaps.com/...-zj-4-pair.html Adjustable Track Bar $128 http://mudflaps.com/...E1600&go=Search IRO link adapters $13 http://www.ironrocko...ategory_Code=UP RE1175 links $29 http://mudflaps.com/...p-xj-zj-tj.html Fixed lower & adjustable upper control arms $269 http://www.ironrocko...tegory_Code=XSP Allows for adjustment of the pinion angle while keeping the adjuster tucked up high. Save $20 by using fixed upper & lowers Barnes 4wd axle swap kit D44 3” tube $115 http://www.barnes4wd...ombo_p_129.html Pick your tube Diameter: 2.75” for stock MJ axles or 3.0” for 8.25 swap. Includes perches, high quality u-bolts, spring plates, & shock mounts. I swapped to bent & curved shock mounts for free Front brake hose 88-2000 c1500 oreilly $14x2 $28 http://www.oreillyau...&make=Chevrolet rear brake hose 89-96 dakota oreilly $23 http://www.oreillyau...03349&ppt=C0066 Total $692 F. shocks Rusty's RX16 29.92 17.52 S1 BP-7 + $66 http://www.rustysoff...ock-rx-16.html/ R. shocks Rusty's RX11 29.82 17.67 EB1-A EB1-B + $66 http://www.rustysoff...ock-rx-11.html/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share Posted March 4, 2014 (NOTE: Final Pricing Update complete 4/1/2014) I will update the build list with what I actually used and the cost including shipping for the items to get a realistic view of the actual cost. I will edit the list and use a red font for the parts that I actually use with the as-shipped price. Front RE 5.5" Springs $87 $87 http://mudflaps.com/i-7093397-rubicon-express-re1345-coil-springs-jeep-xj-5-5-jeep-zj-4-pair.html Adjustable Track Bar RE1660 $125 http://mudflaps.com/i-7093479-rubicon-express-re1660-front-adjustable-super-flex-track-bar-jeep-xj-zj.html Track Bar Bracket RE1665 $54 http://mudflaps.com/i-7093480-rubicon-express-re1665-track-bar-bracket-hd-jeep-xj-zj.html CL find package deal: RK QUICK DISCONNECTS RUSTY'S FIXED LOWERS RUSTY'S BRAIDED FRONT BRAKE LINES NIB FROM CRAIGSLIST $100 Upper adjustable control arms RE3780 Amazon $165 http://www.amazon.com/Rubicon-Express-RE3780-Super-Flex-Control/dp/B006GJLM4C/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1395074527&sr=1-1&keywords=re3780 Barnes 4wd axle swap kit D44 3” tube $128 http://www.barnes4wd.com/Dana-44-Axle-Swap-Combo_p_129.html Pick your tube Diameter: 2.75” for stock XJ axles or 3.0” for 8.25 swap. Includes perches, high quality u-bolts, spring plates, & shock mounts. I swapped to bent & curved shock mounts for free Shocks $82 F= Monroe 32305 27.25 15.62 Amazon / R= Monroe 32370 27.25 16.12 Amazon BPE's Rough Country #1088 Amazon $25 http://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-1088-Eliminator-Unlimited/dp/B00B2AFP8O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395075565&sr=8-1&keywords=rough+country+1088 Total Purchased to Date Including shipping $ 767 The new prices and total will include shipping charges and show that those shipping charges can drastically change your bottom line. Remember that paying more for the part and/or bundling parts from the same supplier even if an individual part in the group may be cheaper somewhere else may save you a lot of money on shipping. Of course shopping for free shipping items is a great idea. I have found that the RE4020 Adjustable upper control arms are $173 and shipped free from Mudflaps.com. The $160 IRP uppers are $178 with shipping. $5-$10 here and there adds up just as quickly in savings as it does in nickle and dime charges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted March 4, 2014 Author Share Posted March 4, 2014 I mentioned that you can often find good used parts and new parts that folks have bought but did not use. I found a package deal on CL that included NIB fixed Rusty's extended LCA's, Rusty's braided front extended brake lines, and a never installed Rock Krawler quick-disconnect kit for $100. To purchase these three items new and to have them shipped to me would have been $290. The new stuff: I also scored a NIB Westin/FEY step bumper off of CL for $40 that will serve for now. I have a receiver hitch with d-ring mounts mounted all of the way through the main tube and welded on both sides for recovery duty. I am not adding this to the lift total as it has nothing to do with the lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 Shocks: I decided to go with plain old Monroes over the basic white-bodied shock that most everyone sells. Although they each claim them as their own shocks if you look into it they are all the same and are made by Tenneco... who also makes Monroe shocks. From my experience and net sleuthing it appears that the Monroes hold up just as well in most apps and may provide better flex. Although I would not use them for a high-speed desert racer they should be fine for driving and most off-roading. Time will tell. Again I kept my budget in mind here: these shocks are $60 cheaper as delivered than any of the generic white-bodied shocks were without shipping charges even after I purchased the BPE's. As an added plus the BPE's are an upgrade to front shock performance as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share Posted March 15, 2014 Ordered the Barnes 4wd (great products & great service) simple axle swap kit as listed above. It is for a D44 as that is the kit that offers the axle tube options ( 2.75" & 3.0" ) most commonly found in MJ's. I used the 3.0" no-cost upgrade as that is what is needed for the 8.25 I am swapping in. Some people try to save some money by flipping the stock springs plates side to side and re-using them on the top of the spring pack. That leaves them just having to buy perches ad u-bolts. Although some people do it I do not recommend re-using U-bolts and being able to just cut off the old bolts instead of trying to get them off is a big plus where they use road salt. To re-use the stock plates you and their shock mounts you would really limit your flex as that would keep your shock length short. Ok for a street truck I guess but if that is not what I am after. Some report that the original u-bolt holes in the stock spring plates have enough wiggle room to use them with a 3" tube but I have not checked this as I am not going that route. The difference in tube & U-bolt sizes,especially with the much larger Barnes or RuffStuff u-bolts, may result in the need for further fabrication to the plates, anyway. The Barnes stuff is pure beef. Image Not Found Another advantage to this kit is that the spring pads are longer to combat axle wrap and are drilled to allow you to move the axle forward or back to fine tune its position. Short factory-style pads do nothing to help in either of these areas. You can buy just the better perches and they are only about $10 more than the cheapies. Decisions on these parts are good places to make good use of the $5 or $10 bucks you save here and there by shopping around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted April 1, 2014 Author Share Posted April 1, 2014 Well it is done. I ordered the last pieces of the puzzle, the adjustable track bar and mount, today. With estimated shipping dates I hope t have all of the parts by the 4/13/14 and to start on this the following weekend. As this is not just a lift but a swap to 4x4 and a lift I hope to have it done my mid-May. The grand total of the lift parts was $783 including my shipping costs. That is about as complete a I can make it. There will be smaller incidentals along the way but that figure includes parts to make this lift more complete than any I have seen posted and more complete than the pre-assembled lift kits which generally give you just enough to get by and sometimes not even that. Shipping costs may vary by location and parts prices may change by the time someone reads this ( if anyone does) but that is an honest account of my costs for this lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted April 1, 2014 Author Share Posted April 1, 2014 To do: -Remove front 2wd beam axle and swap in 3.55 HP D30 from XJ donor. Replace stock parts with lift parts during this step as every part that must be removed for the swap has to be removed for the lift- shocks, springs, track bar, control arms,etc.... Very little extra labor involved for installing the lift at this time. Drill lower coil bucket for new hockey puck bumpstops. Scrap beam axle -Remove 2wd AW4 and swap in 4x4 AW4/231 from donor XJ and install shifter. including floor pan work. Install donor front drive-shaft - Remove rear D35 by cutting u-bolts and removing brake lines/cables and shocks. Re-work the hard lines to bypass the rear valve as detailed numerous places. Hope someone will haul this hunk of crap D35 away for the scrap value. - Position 3.55 29-spline 8.25 from donor XJ under MJ springs and measure for proper position and pinion angle for perches. Weld new Barnes perches and shock tabs onto the axle. Use new u-bolts to attach axle & attach shocks - Measure for driveshaft. Have drive shaft cut to length - Install new wheels and tires - Measuring tape align the front end as detailed various places before driving to the alignment shop for a quality alignment. I am fortunate and skip this step as the buddy helping me has built numerous tube-chassis race cars for both drag racing and circle track. He has a couple of jigs and the know-how to get a darn good alignment the first time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted April 23, 2014 Author Share Posted April 23, 2014 Starting on it Saturday 4/26/14. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted April 27, 2014 Author Share Posted April 27, 2014 Progress for today: We got the 2wd tranny out of the truck Image Not Found Thanks to the awesome Great Lakes region rust it took a little longer than we had hoped...about an hour just to remove it. We got a late start due a rainy morning and having to do it outside. We also have the 4wd tranny re-installed. I don't have pics of it in yet. We had some change-over to do as this was a junkyard purchase and, typical of junkyards, they cut the wires, lines, etc... rather than removing them when they yanked them from the donor. We stopped short of getting the 231 bolted in due to prior commitments. Here is a pile of axles & stuff. There are 2 29-spline 8.25's, a HP D30, drive shaft, NP231, and the 4wd tranny in there In the background is my buddies '96 XJ. 4.0/AX15/231 long-armed with a trussed & chromo'd HPd30 front an 8.8 disc rear under bastard pack leafs both with no-slip lockers and 4.56's on 35" BFG M/T's. It is apart for new floor pans and a 2x3 rectangular frame. We are probably down until nect Sunday as we are both tied up tomorrow and the forecast is for 5-6" of rain over the next 5 days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted May 4, 2014 Author Share Posted May 4, 2014 Got back to work on it today. Got the transfer case in and and the rear axle swapped out. No more D35! The 8.25 is in & tacked in place using the Barnes spring plates, perches, and u-bolts. I still have to weld on the lower shock mounts. rear slung under Front at stock height & rear SOA Front leveled to rear via floor jack ( long level on bed rail ) Using the factory 2wd springs and the much taller than stock Barnes spring perches I netted exactly 5" of lift with the weight on the axle. I measured from the center of the axle hub to the bottom of the flare. For reference the tires in the picture are 245/75/r16's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted May 6, 2014 Author Share Posted May 6, 2014 Here is the new tire/wheel combo: They are 265/75/r16 Buckshot M/T's on 16" KJ/Liberty steel rims. Mounted on these 7" wide rims & they balanced up with minimal weight for a heavy tire & steel rim. The tires measure 32 1/8"s tall and the tread is 20/32's deep. I chose to use these rims because they are shaped kind of differently then most other factory rims as they have a raised ring around the center where the lug nuts mount. That should protect my center caps, lug nuts, & even the valve stems more than most of the flat-faced factory rims that you usually find with the factory backspacing of 5.5" or so. This photo shows the area I am talking about and it shows how the center cap is protected: I 'wheeled my Liberty quite a bit using the wheel & 245/75/r16 tire combo pictured in the post above these one. I had to replace several center caps over the rears from contact with obstacles. I am hoping to avoid that. You often hear that D or E rated tires will not flex or at least will not flex unless they are on a very heavy rig. That is not my personal experience with them. Pictured here are 10-ply E-rated tires at 20 PSI on a Jeep Liberty which is almost identical to an XJ dimensionally. Look at the right rear tire in particular: The heavier carcass of the tire would seem to aid in puncture resistance. The wheel/tire combo I am using on the MJ is pretty heavy--about 80 #'s each set. Although heavy wheel/tire combo's like these are bad for a performance car and will effect MPG additional unsprung weight can aid in traction. So everything is a bit of a trade-off. (BTW: the tires and wheels in this Liberty pic are the ones on the MJ pic with just the rear lift on. Here the have about 5,000 miles on them while they have over 40,000 miles on them in the MJ pic.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 Well we had a couple of hours tonight so we hit it as it is supposed to rain for the next five days. We removed the 2wd beam axle by disconnecting the shocks at the body, removing the calipers, removing all 4 control arms at the body, dropping the drag link at the pittman arm, and removing the body-side bracket for the track bar. The whole assembly came out as unit. Next we rolled the donor D30 in place. We assembled the new RE adjustable upper & Rusty's lower control arms on the axle. Then the new HD RE trackbar was attached to the axle mount and the new HD RE track bar bracket, necessary to run the double-shear RE track bar and eliminate the tie rod end the factory uses, on the body. The whole assembly was jacked into place and the control arms were connected. The track bar was secured into the new mount and the drag-link was attached to the pittman arm. We installed the new RE 5.5" springs last. We still have to install the quick disconnects, BPE's and then the new front shocks. We left it tonight still on jack stands awaiting both the shocks and the front brake pads, rotors, and calipers to be replaced. Here is the only pic that I took. The rust looks much worse in the pic then it actually is. I think that the flash did it. Still the axle will get stripped via wire brush & fap wheels and covered in paint before the final assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted May 8, 2014 Author Share Posted May 8, 2014 A couple of more shots. The control arms are not adjusted yet. And why i don't care about the body on this.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted May 9, 2014 Author Share Posted May 9, 2014 OOOkay...lift is ON! The thing sets very level using the parts listed above. I will see if the front settles some. They are quality RE springs so I don't expect much settling, if any, though. This shot also shows why, despite just a personal preference against poser "off-roaders," I will not mind beating this MJ off-road. Of course I took my other MJ off-road and it was pretty darn nice for a rust-belt jeep so.... I still have to get the rest of the shifter parts, pull the rear axle and burn in the perches (they are just tacked on now), shock tabs, shorten the drive shaft, and set the front control arms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87Warrior Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Looking good! That is the perfect truck to use as a wheeler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted May 9, 2014 Author Share Posted May 9, 2014 Looking good! That is the perfect truck to use as a wheeler. Thanks. Mechanically it is very sound but yeah, the body is beyond saving without spending much more than the truck would be worth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted May 14, 2014 Author Share Posted May 14, 2014 Got the Rusty's braided front brake hoses on. Got the front brakes on. Got the front shocks on but the require pressing out the original sleepless and inserting the news ones that came with the BPE kit. Got the Aussie in the rear. Slapped on the rims/tires Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted May 27, 2014 Author Share Posted May 27, 2014 Got back to it last night for a couple of hours. Bent all new brake lines to attach to the 96 XJ dual booster, master cylinder, and proportioning valve that got put on it. Pulled off the intake & exhaust manifolds to repair a broken exhaust stud. The ex. manifold is in surprisingly good shape but I am going to run a bead of weld across the common cracking areas while it is out. Also replacing the leaking valve cover gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted May 30, 2014 Author Share Posted May 30, 2014 http://solidaxle.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=156&idcategory=7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted May 30, 2014 Author Share Posted May 30, 2014 A note on the drive shaft: the 2wd MJ uses some massive diameter two-part shaft that has a rubber sleeve over a smaller inner diameter shaft apparently to stop vibration. When I went to get it shortened I was told that they would not even try to re-balance it as they never have any luck doing so with the ancient ( 23 years/225,000 miles rubber sleeve shafts like these. I had previously read of this potential issue somewhere on the forum. I picked up an el cheapo $10 junk yard drive shaft that had 1310 u-joints and had it shortened and balanced instead. Drive shaft, cut/balance, and two Spicer u-joints - $135. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted June 5, 2014 Author Share Posted June 5, 2014 New Westin/Fie step bumper installed. I also installed a modified receiver hitch with tow hooks that is visible under the bumper. The receiver portion was removed and 1" thick d-ring hangers were installed all of the way through the tube and welded on both ends. Should be a solid recovery point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted June 18, 2014 Author Share Posted June 18, 2014 It is all but done. Only working on it 2-3 hours at a time has sucked.It went down the road today under its own power. Everything is working fine except I am having trouble figuring out the transfer case shift linkage. So for now it is manually in 2HI so I can drive it. Pics as soon as photobucket comes back up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted June 18, 2014 Author Share Posted June 18, 2014 Specs as of 6/17/2014 1991 Jeep Comanche Pioneer 2wd SWB 4.0/AW4/D35 w/ 3.55 Dark Cordovan with maroon interior and sliding rear window No A/C and manual windows Full gauge cluster swap 2000 XJ dome/map light & lighted vanity mirror shades swapped in Cobra Ultra III compact CB mounted to cab roof with 4' Firestick on rear of bed Factory rear step bumper replaced with FEY version Lebaron hood vents Rusty's front Hidden Winch Trail Bumper Replaced tranny with an AW4/231 combo from donor 1998 XJ Interior transfer case shifter and linkage from the same donor Relocated all breather hoses to firewall Front high pinion Dana 30 with 297 u-joints from same donor/3.55 Rugged Ridge Diff cover Front driveshaft from same donor Rubicon Express RE1345 5.5” lift springs RE RE1600 HD adjustable double shear track bar RE Track Bar Bracket RE1665 RE Steering Stabilizer RXT2000 Rusty’s fixed LCA’s. RE adjustable UCA’s RE3790 Rock Krawler quick disconnects Front shocks Monroe 32305 27.25 15.62 Rough Country BPE #1088 Rear 29-spline 8.25 3.55 swapped in from donor with Solid diff cover Rear drive shaft sourced from junk yard and shortened to D44 specs Rear has 2nd Gen Aussie locker installed Rear lift is stock 2wd leaf springs swapped to SOA with Barnes 4wd simple swap kit: anti-wrap heavy duty perches, shock mounts, u- bolts, and plates. Rear shocks Monroe 32370 27.25 16.12 1995 Jeep XJ power booster/ prop. valve upgrade eliminating rear valve Rusty's braided stainless extended brake lines all three places New hard brake lines run New calipers, rotors, pads, drums, shoes, and wheel cylinders New outer axle seals 265/75/r16 ( 32x11) Maxis’ Buckshot Mudders Factory ’02 KJ 16x7 Sport 4x2 rims painted black with bumper & trim spray Removed original flares at all 4 corners due to rust and replaced with TJ rear flares after trimming the body Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted June 18, 2014 Author Share Posted June 18, 2014 [/url] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incommando Posted July 6, 2014 Author Share Posted July 6, 2014 I have put about 200 miles on it and it is 95% complete. It rides, drives, and turns well even at highway speed. I finally got around to fine-tuning the fit of the TJ rear fender flares that I mounted at each corner: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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