streetjeep2.5 Posted February 26, 2011 Share Posted February 26, 2011 It will be a sssllllooooowwww build, but in a few days I pick up a given to me for free a running when pulled about 15 years ago and kept in a barn and all holes covered complete chevy 327 from a 68 caprice to place into the engine compartment of my 4x2 swb 87. :clapping: Block and id numbers say HP 250, TORQUE 325, COMPRESSION 8.75, LIFT INTAKE .390, LIFT EXH .410 It even has the quadrajet on it! It will go on top of a weiand 8125 dual plane intake. It will get the lightest Comp Cam there is, a Pure Energy 246PE with .429 on the intake and .438 on the exhaust. I have been told this lift is easily within the range of the geometry of the stock valve components. Nothing special needed. I will use an old short in height (camaro type?) regular air cleaner that is double snorkeled and run tubing to the front on both sides to take in not warmed by the engine compartment air. It will have a hi-flow KN filter. Will search for a car 4 speed from the 1960's or 70's, or get the pickup 5 speed. Will use Novak's mechanical to hydraulic clutch adapter kit. With headers and free flowing exhaust I am thinking this will put out at least 275 hp. :yes: I will retain the 8.75 compression, so with some tweaking of the timing I'm told 87 octane should be good. This is not going to be a street rod, but a daily driver that, when needed, has the necessary muscle to pass or pull a trailer. I know, a 4.0 will do that, but I have wanted a 327 again for a long time, and at 62 years old my time to do it is getting less and less, so I am gonna!!!! Will work on getting a D44 later, but Novak claims that unless abused the D35 when in good shape is strong enough for a small block chevy. Will eventually add AC and maybe PS. Right now it has neither being a 2.5. And, checked with a Jeep parts dept; the front coils of the Comanche/Cherokee/Grand Cherokee with a 4.0 were the same, so the front coils from a V8 Grand will fit in there to hold the weight. First thing to come will be a pic of the engine when I get it home! :banana: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streetjeep2.5 Posted February 26, 2011 Author Share Posted February 26, 2011 Well, first thing to come is not the pic of the engine, but questions! I will be getting rid of all computerization, and I have gauges and a tac. Anyone know if they can be made to work, and what to do to make them work without the computer? What is the 2.5 fuel pump pressure? An old Motors manual says I need 5 to 6.5 lbs of pressure for this 327. And, since the Manche has a fuel return line but a quadrajet doesn't, what needs to be done? A pressure relief valve? Suggestions on which one to get if that's what's needed? Danka!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Posted February 26, 2011 Share Posted February 26, 2011 :idea: pics, pics, and more pics. we all like pics. lol. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streetjeep2.5 Posted March 2, 2011 Author Share Posted March 2, 2011 Only one pic so far. 68 327 listed by numbers as 250hp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streetjeep2.5 Posted March 2, 2011 Author Share Posted March 2, 2011 BTW, looks kinda cruddy 'cuz it hung in a barn for about 20 years. Other than exhaust ports, all holes were still filled or covered, including distributor hole and carb area. Oil filter still on. Water pump turned freely. Will do a teardown and see what shakes! Hey, for free, can't complain!!! Every bolt hole has white stuff in it so it appears bugs, maybe spiders. Will deal with them this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 Well, first thing to come is not the pic of the engine, but questions! I will be getting rid of all computerization, and I have gauges and a tac. Anyone know if they can be made to work, and what to do to make them work without the computer? What is the 2.5 fuel pump pressure? An old Motors manual says I need 5 to 6.5 lbs of pressure for this 327. And, since the Manche has a fuel return line but a quadrajet doesn't, what needs to be done? A pressure relief valve? Suggestions on which one to get if that's what's needed? Danka!!! If your 2.5 is injected you can't use the stock in tank pump. It will have way too much pressure and blow the carb seals. The 327 should have a mechanical pump on the block. You can do away with the in tank pump all together. You can either find a pump assy from a carbed 2.8 or just put a piece of tubing in place of the in tank pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streetjeep2.5 Posted March 2, 2011 Author Share Posted March 2, 2011 Kind of thinking I would have to go to the mechanical pump. Thanks! Was the pump assembly for the carbed 2.8 in the tank? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streetjeep2.5 Posted March 2, 2011 Author Share Posted March 2, 2011 BTW, it's going in this: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camjeep3 Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 amazing lookin truck :wrench: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirteatr717 Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 That's a VERY clean MJ ! Can't wait to see some progress! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted March 2, 2011 Share Posted March 2, 2011 Kind of thinking I would have to go to the mechanical pump. Thanks! Was the pump assembly for the carbed 2.8 in the tank? The 2.8 sender is in the tank. It is just a straight pipe with the filter on the end. The mechanical pump on the block did the rest. I have a set of ZJ V8 coils laying here if you need them for your truck fairly cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streetjeep2.5 Posted March 3, 2011 Author Share Posted March 3, 2011 Kind of thinking I would have to go to the mechanical pump. Thanks! Was the pump assembly for the carbed 2.8 in the tank? The 2.8 sender is in the tank. It is just a straight pipe with the filter on the end. The mechanical pump on the block did the rest. I have a set of ZJ V8 coils laying here if you need them for your truck fairly cheap. Thanks on the 2.8 info! And, the ZJ coils, I am considering using them. I want to research different weight situations for the ZJ so I definitely don't raise the front any higher than it is now but not lower it either. My info shows both the 318 and 360 as slightly lighter that the 327. Is this true? More info on these springs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted March 4, 2011 Share Posted March 4, 2011 I am not sure if the 327 is lighter than the 318. I do know you are going to catch hell trying to get the oil pan to clear the steering and axle. The ZJ coils should lift a stock MJ about an 1" to 1 1/2" or so. You might pick up 3/4" to 1" in the front with the ZJ coils. I doubt you would notice the difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streetjeep2.5 Posted March 4, 2011 Author Share Posted March 4, 2011 I am not sure if the 327 is lighter than the 318. I do know you are going to catch hell trying to get the oil pan to clear the steering and axle. The ZJ coils should lift a stock MJ about an 1" to 1 1/2" or so. You might pick up 3/4" to 1" in the front with the ZJ coils. I doubt you would notice the difference. I've heard both stories. Almost all sbc's are put in 4x4's and I know both the "pumpkin" and front drive shaft needs to be cleared, but mine is a 4x2, and with no "pumpkin" or shaft to clear .... I have never received a definitive answer like "yes, both the 4x2 and 4x4 need lifting because we have added sbc's to both" from the suppliers of the mounts, etc to put one in a comanche/cherokee. Both Advance Adapters and Novak material only talk about adding sbc's to 4x4's, never a 4x2. Guess I will see unless someone out there can tell me definitely for a 4x2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streetjeep2.5 Posted March 5, 2011 Author Share Posted March 5, 2011 Pulled the heads. surface rust in a couple of cylinders. LOTSA carbon build up. Must have been running very rich. No evidence of burnt valves. All else looks good. Will need bored. Slight but uniform ridge in each cyl. Oil left in the pan was goo, and a little bit of clear water came out first. Pan off next. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MancheKid86 Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 :needpics: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streetjeep2.5 Posted March 5, 2011 Author Share Posted March 5, 2011 Ok! If its pics you want! :D Went in the garage before heading to the office, pulled it out of the corner and lifted everything off just for you! :cheers: The valley with bee larva dirt pulled out of one head intake port :eek: Image Not Found The heads: Image Not Found Image Not Found The cyl's Image Not Found Image Not Found the two rusty cyls: Image Not Found Image Not Found tucked away in the garage corner again: Image Not Found Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shelbyluvv Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 The rusty cylinders are from a blown head gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streetjeep2.5 Posted March 5, 2011 Author Share Posted March 5, 2011 The rusty cylinders are from a blown head gasket. That's what I thought also when I pulled the head on the rustiest cylinder side. Did it first. But when I saw the other one that wasn't as bad, I wondered if both, or at least it, was from sitting so long. I took a quick look at the gasket and it didn't seem blown, but I will look closer when I have the chance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streetjeep2.5 Posted March 8, 2011 Author Share Posted March 8, 2011 The guy I got the engine from said it was making a knocking noise so the shut it off. Found out why last night: Note the gap: Image Not Found Look closely to the left bottom of the rod cap and you see squeezed bearing. Image Not Found Number one rod was about to smack the block! Have to see if there is any other damage from the metal in the pan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
streetjeep2.5 Posted March 22, 2011 Author Share Posted March 22, 2011 Engine disassembled and in boxes. Image Not Found Working on what to do about heads. With one original to the engine 68.8 cc head and one early 1970's 350 75cc head, I want to get a matching pair. Didn't know which way to go so spent a LOT of time on the tri5 (55,56,57 chevy) website talking to guys who know small block chevys inside out, many chevy mechanics. Can't afford a pair of Word Products stock replacement heads so fairly sure I will try to find a match for the 350 head that has larger valves and larger intake runners than the stock heads and are called "the best stock 4 barrel heads." :thumbsup: If I use Keith Black pistons I will be able to maintain a compression ratio slightly under the 8.75 to one stock ratio but also loose some of the "quench" area and this helps eliminate predetination which makes it easier to run 87 octane. Sooooo, the hunt is on! :yes: But first, take the block, crank, rods and pistons to the machine shop to be evaluated! :smart: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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