btm24 Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 Today I was installing my shocks that I just got and due to my inexperienc I tightened the shock down way to much and broke the stud. I'm talking about where the shock mounts up to the frame not the spring plate. It looks like the stud and sleeve where the shock mounts to are part of some type of mounting bracket that is welded to the frame. Dose any body know where I can get one? Or is there any other way of fixing this? I don't have a pic, but this is an old pic with an arrow pointing to the mounting place I'm talking about. Thanks for any and all ideas Brandon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flint54 Posted February 21, 2011 Share Posted February 21, 2011 Oh boy do I share your disappointment! That stud plate is welded to the frame. Did it break where the threads end or where the stud ends at the plate? What I suggest is to cut and/or grind off the remainder flush to the plate. Go to the JY and cut off another shock stud from an XJ and have it welded to the plate where the old one was. FSM calls for 44 ftlb of torque for that nut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btm24 Posted February 21, 2011 Author Share Posted February 21, 2011 Oh boy do I share your disappointment! That stud plate is welded to the frame.Did it break where the threads end or where the stud ends at the plate? What I suggest is to cut and/or grind off the remainder flush to the plate. Go to the JY and cut off another shock stud from an XJ and have it welded to the plate where the old one was. FSM calls for 44 ftlb of torque for that nut. Ok thats not to bad I think thats what Ill do then. And thanks a bunch for the torque specs I was WAY over that :wall: here's a pic of what It looks like Brandon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knever3 Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 Or you can go to the auto parts store and get a shock stud. Or you can just get a grade 8 bolt and cut off the head. I would rather choose new metal to weld with and it's strength. If you go with the shock stud you can have the old one cut off flush with the frame and a new one welded on. Then you don't have to worry about the threads after welding onto the old stud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brdhntr Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 so what's the best way to get the nut off if it's rusted on so it doesn't break? i need to replace the rears on mine and i'm sure they are rusted on pretty good. i was going to soak them down and let them sit for a while then use the impact to zip them off. if they break that easy, maybe it's not a good idea. has anyone used an impact to remove the nuts without breaking the bolt and what was the setting on the impact? i just don't want to run into the same problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 so what's the best way to get the nut off if it's rusted on so it doesn't break? i need to replace the rears on mine and i'm sure they are rusted on pretty good. i was going to soak them down and let them sit for a while then use the impact to zip them off. if they break that easy, maybe it's not a good idea. The impact is definitely not a good idea. Do you know what a nut breaker is? Tighten the tool over the head of the nut and it cracks, releiving its grip on the bolt/stud. The nut is toast, of course, but if it's all rusted up you probably shouldn't be thinking about reusing it anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flint54 Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 The nut breaker is the ticket, but if you don't have one I've had great success using a MAP gas torch and heating the nut as hot as it will get. They will almost always spin right off once they're hot enough. Caution!!: if the shock is on you're going to catch the rubber bushing on fire. You'll get molten rubber on your fingers, then swear, then accidentally aim the torch at a brake line or something. How do I know this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btm24 Posted February 22, 2011 Author Share Posted February 22, 2011 Dose any body know where I can buy the right type of stud for this? I can't seem to find any and I don't really want to have to cut off an old one at a jy and weld it back on. That seems like a last resort type of thing. Also some one told me today that it may just screw in, and out of that bracket dose any body know it this is true? thanks! Brandon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubSonic Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 Shocks, are an unnecessary luxury, just leave it... On a truthful note, go to a store that specializes in hardware (like a nut and bolt store)... make sure it is hardened (ie. heat treated to spec) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 Oh boy do I share your disappointment! That stud plate is welded to the frame.Did it break where the threads end or where the stud ends at the plate? What I suggest is to cut and/or grind off the remainder flush to the plate. Go to the JY and cut off another shock stud from an XJ and have it welded to the plate where the old one was. FSM calls for 44 ftlb of torque for that nut. Ok thats not to bad I think thats what Ill do then. And thanks a bunch for the torque specs I was WAY over that :wall: here's a pic of what It looks like Brandon First, I wouldn't cut it at the frame, could cause more problems. I would cut the remaining threaded part flush with the top of the stud. then get a 1 1/2" grade 8 bolt from the hardware store, cut the head off flush bevel the bolt back at about a 45* to give space for the weld, weld, clean up, done. Spend more time with the GF as you obviously aren't now as evidenced by your snapping bolts off :rotf: Oh to be young again...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flint54 Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 I looked this up in parts manual and it is indeed a plate assembly that welds to the frame rail, not a threaded in part. Part number is 5501-5400-1. I still think welding is the way to go, and agree with the fellow that said to just weld on a headless bolt. Grind off what remains of your threaded portion only. There is very little reason to put much torque here, all this nut and washer do is keep the shock from sliding off the post. A self-locking nut snugged down gently is sufficient. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 First, I wouldn't cut it at the frame, could cause more problems. I would cut the remaining threaded part flush with the top of the stud. then get a 1 1/2" grade 8 bolt from the hardware store, cut the head off flush bevel the bolt back at about a 45* to give space for the weld, weld, clean up, done. :agree: Yep. That's what I would do, too. Keep it simple, and don't dig any deeper than you have to. The stud is still solid, all you need as a thread to attach a nut and washer to. And be sure to buy a can of anti-seize ... and use it religiously so you never face the problem again (on anything you have worked on). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brdhntr Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 so what's the best way to get the nut off if it's rusted on so it doesn't break? i need to replace the rears on mine and i'm sure they are rusted on pretty good. i was going to soak them down and let them sit for a while then use the impact to zip them off. if they break that easy, maybe it's not a good idea. The impact is definitely not a good idea. Do you know what a nut breaker is? Tighten the tool over the head of the nut and it cracks, releiving its grip on the bolt/stud. The nut is toast, of course, but if it's all rusted up you probably shouldn't be thinking about reusing it anyway. i've got 1. i was worried it may damage the thread. i guess rethreading isn't a problem if it does happen though. of course i thought of the heat and always try heat. i start at a low torque on the setting on the impact. i just want to avoid any damage so it doesn't need to be replaced. i've never had a stud break even on all the really old rigs i've worked on (wel shock mount stud). i just got nervous hearing he broke it by hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 id be more worried about that frame rot :ack: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted February 23, 2011 Share Posted February 23, 2011 i've got 1. i was worried it may damage the thread. i guess rethreading isn't a problem if it does happen though. of course i thought of the heat and always try heat. i start at a low torque on the setting on the impact. i just want to avoid any damage so it doesn't need to be replaced. i've never had a stud break even on all the really old rigs i've worked on (wel shock mount stud). i just got nervous hearing he broke it by hand. The nut breaker wedge should never touch the threads. Even if it does, it's easy to clean up with a thread chaser die. Sears sells them in sets, and everyone who works on old cars (and trucks) should have them. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... ckType=G18 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcComanche86lb Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 Do you think cutting it off and drilling through the frame rail and putting a long bolt all of the way through maybe? I'm not sure if they make grade 8 all thread? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted February 24, 2011 Share Posted February 24, 2011 Do you think cutting it off and drilling through the frame rail and putting a long bolt all of the way through maybe? I'm not sure if they make grade 8 all thread? Sounds like a good way to crush the frame rail to me. Why cut off a perfectly good mount when all that's needed is to weld on a new threaded section? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btm24 Posted February 24, 2011 Author Share Posted February 24, 2011 I got it all together now. I went to Reutimann's shop in town and talked to Buzzie Reutimann who owns the shop and is the brother of the shop teacher at my school, and he came up with some thing that I should get done tomarrow in shop. He gave me two peaces that look just like shock stud that I broke off, but have a stud on the back end also (so maybe they are shock studs :dunno: didnt ask). He said just cut off the stud on the back, and cut the old one off of the frame. Grind it to make it clean and smooth, and weld the "new" stud that I just cut the back off of on the frame in the same spot the old one was. Then mount the shock and don't over tighten lol here's a pic of what he gave me: I'm most likley going to use the one on the left because there is more to weld on to. But both are the same size. I'm going to cut where the yellow line is: It should be really easy then Ill have shocks again :clapping: Ill let you know either tomarrow or Friday how every thing go's ill also post up more pic's when I get it all mounted. Thanks for all of the ideas I just hope the one I picked to go with works :wrench: Brandon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64 Cheyenne Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 Next time you chip a tooth, ask the dentist to take it all the way down to the frame I mean the gum, and install a new one where the old one used to be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btm24 Posted February 25, 2011 Author Share Posted February 25, 2011 id be more worried about that frame rot :ack: I was worried about this also, but After cleaning 90% of all of that off today, I found that it is just surface rust thank god! Today I cut the old shock stud off and started to grind it down to a flat surface to weld onto. It was not all that hard to do and "should" have this done tomarrow :D My gut told me that this was the way to go instead of welding on a new thread. I am not sure why but in any case I do hope this works out and if it dose then Ill wright this up and put it in the DIY section. Wish me luck! Brandon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted February 25, 2011 Share Posted February 25, 2011 Today I cut the old shock stud off and started to grind it down to a flat surface to weld onto. It was not all that hard to do and "should" have this done tomarrow :D My gut told me that this was the way to go instead of welding on a new thread. I am not sure why but in any case I do hope this works out and if it dose then Ill wright this up and put it in the DIY section. Wish me luck! I certainly do wish you luck, and I hope it comes out well. I hope you are a good welder. Personally, given that it's the stud-to-frame connection that gets all the stress and the nut on the end of the stud is only to keep the shock bushing from sliding off, I don't understand why you thought it better to try welding on a new stud when the old one was still solid, but there's no going back now, so ... have at it, and let us know how it comes out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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