Just bought an '88 Comanche

[acfortier]

Hey all, I just recently bought a 1988 Jeep Comanche Pioneer, 4.0 I6, 5spd manual, dana 35 rear, mostly stock. Needed a new return line for the power steering pump, replaced, and also needed new drums which I also replaced. What I did not know, and what I found out AFTER spending $45 to fill the gas tank, was that it was leaky. Going to have to drop the tank this weekend most likely, I suppose it wasn't a surprise since the truck is 23 years old? And recommendations on where I should get a new gas tank? Or will any parts website work?

 

Also, my stepdad has some Rancho shocks left over from an XJ... will they work on my MJ? One of the leafs in the rear completely broke in half, so I am also figure if I should replace that leaf, buy whole new leaf springs and add a 2" lift to it. I don't want anything too extreme. Thoughts?

 

Now, the courtesy lights in the cab - mine don't seem to work, no matter what position they are in. I haven't checked the fuse box yet, but I was just wondering if it was common for them to go out.

 

Hopefully going to install a full instrument panel, currently I have all gauges except the tach. I've read up on some other sites, I remember them saying I have to replace two sensors, but that will be a while away anyways.

 

I definitely need to get the gas tank fixed, hopefully I won't find something I don't like under there...

[Dechion]

Good morning to ya, grats on scoring the Jeep. :cheers:

 

A question for you on you gas tank, does it leak all the time, or just when it's full?

 

I have the problem on the '89 I bought right before it started getting stupid cold out, but it's fine so long as I don't fill it up all the way. (I still plan to fix it, just waiting for it to warm up already). Not trying to steal your thread, just interested in what you find since I may have a similar issue. :hmm:

 

Shocks and such I don't know much about, though there are many here that do. :dunno:

 

Cab lights... mine were non-working when I got my MJ as well. I cleaned the contacts inside them and they both started working again. Another common culprit is the door switches. There is an electrical manual elsewhere on the site. It helped me a lot. You can find it here:

 

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12734&hilit=electrical+manual

 

That same electrical manual has more details on the three different gauge clusters as well. :thumbsup:

 

Once again, welcome aboard.

[flint54]

Regarding the tank, you might find the problem to be the sending unit installation seal.

If so, that would be an easy and low cost fix. Otherwise, a tank R&R isn't too tough to

do (I did that job last month), but you may find the hanger strap bolts so badly rusted

they have to be cut/replaced. Does the tank have any obvious damages or rust spots?

There are many sources for new tanks. If you buy new, I suggest coating it externally

with something durable like POR-15 to prolong life. Demating the back end of the drive

shaft will make the tank job easier. Mark it first.

 

Regarding the springs, anything less than replacement still leaves you with old, tired springs.

Less than $200 for new springs (suggest HellCreek suspensions) and a couple inches of

lift isn't radical. But, lift does put you on the slippery "modification" slope, and before you

know it you'll be spending every spare dollar and hour on your truck. Your family and your

employer will abandon you, and you'll have truck fun "happily evermore".

 

While you're underneath, scrutinize every inch of floor pan surface for the inevitable corrosion,

and grease all your fittings.

 

As Dechion said, the cab lights are most likely made functional again by abrading the contacts,

but be very careful removing them as the securing tabs are weak and easily broken.

 

PB Blaster will become one of your best friends.

 

And WELCOME to the MJ world! :clapping:

[maddzz1]

The sending units on the gas tank tend to rust/rot where the metal "tube" goes into the sender and down into the tank. I would definately check that before dropping the tank. It the sender is rusted in that spot it can be fixed (wildman has done it). Unfortunately, they don't make sending units for our trucks anymore. If you go to a parts store they will give you one for a cherokee and tell you its the same; but its not. They are opposite. here's a pic: (you can also see in this pic the metal tube I was talking about)

 

If the shocks are from a cherokee then the fronts will work fine but the rears are different.

[acfortier]

From what I can tell, it only leaks from when it is full. Filled it up to the top, drove it, parked it overnight, and coming back to it this morning, it looks like I have about 3/4 of a tank left. If that sending unit is in the back of the tank (as in closer to the middle of the truck rather than the outside) then I doubt it is that. I can see a steady stream coming down right from the front, where the rear front spring shackle is located.

 

Surprisingly enough, the frame/subframe/underneath of this truck is completely clean. I guess it had some MetalGuard coating put on when it was first bought. I don't have any worries about the floors, but regardless I will (eventually) take out the carpet.

 

So, the Rancho shocks that I have are from a Cherokee... What kind of work is going to be involved when I go to install the rear shocks? I'm hoping it won't be too difficult.

 

But first off, I do want to get this tank fixed. Hopefully we can tackle the tank problem this weekend and get to the bottom of it. I will also check out those lights in the meantime, I did see a link somewhere in another thread that had replacement lights with the trim on eBay for $16.

[wannabeMJ]

look on the net for a replacement on the gaz tank

 

unless your tank is spotless and rust free I would not keep it

no point on trying to fix a hole in it .........weld it :no: :thwak: ( HIGHLY DANGEROUS )

 

and for the price you're gonna pay for a new one not even worth the time your gonna spend on it

 

congrats on the buy

have fun wheeling your

[acfortier]

So did I little looking around a few minutes ago, definitely isn't the sending unit. Nor do I think it is the filler neck. I'd like to confirm that the filler necks are just rubber that are clamped onto the gas tank. I am still unsure, but I somehow fit my head in between the frame and the fender right where the gas tank filler neck was and it was pretty rusty - and also coated with gasoline. Now, it could have possibly stemmed from the filler next end that attaches to the gas tank, but I am still unsure. Everything is soaked though, there is basically a line (or so) from below where the filler neck attaches that is coated in gasoline. I know it is definitely not leaking any more.

 

So, I am contemplating buying a new gas tank. For consideration, I believe it is a 16 gal tank now (correct me if I am wrong), how hard would it be to upgrade to a larger tank? I know the skid plate probably wouldn't fit on the larger tank, and I am not sure about the dimensions of the larger tanks. I have a 6ft box.

 

Just read your post wannabeMJ. So any online website should supply the right gas tank for me? Any recommendations or should I just go to carparts.com and other similar ones to compare?

[wannabeMJ]

browse a lot you might find one site with some deals don't go for the first one you found

 

some include the shiping in the lower 48 states

 

take mesurement of your gaz tank and the # of gallons it can take

that will be the info youll need

[flint54]

The six foot bed uses the 18 gallon tank. I suppose fitting the larger (23.5 G) tank is possible,

but I believe it uses different strap attachment points and your frame isn't configured that way. Tank

has metal necks, to which the filler (and vent) hoses are attached with hose clamps. A leak there

would not explain losing a quarter tank, UNLESS the gas was being lost as the tank was being

filled rather than later. The hoses and the filler tube that attached to the body are easily removed

and replaced, but be extremely careful to use only tools that cannot make sparks. I agree with

whoever said that if there's any doubt at all about the health of the tank, just replace it. And, at

the risk of being overbearing, please be cautious. I set a vehicle on fire once due to a very minor

fuel mistake, and it was an old German car I was quite fond of. Given your observations so far,

I would evaluate the neck hoses and fitting at the body before removing the tank. They have to

be unfastened anyway. You just might get really lucky and find a bad hose.

[acfortier]

Going to order a tank and straps from Rock Auto. Regardless of where the leak is, the tank is unbelievably rusty and needs replacing anyways. Doubt it will be here by the weekend, but I need to run it to empty anyways.

 

Also, I failed to originally mention that I am having a problem with the coolant reservoir tank. The cap doesn't seem to want to tighten, and when you think its tight, it simply just comes loose (I'm thinking the cap or the tank is stripped). Either way, I am going to order a replacement tank, but the only site I can find it on is either an OEM Jeep parts or carparts.com. Am I missing something here? I was hoping it'd be listed on Rock Auto, but only the cap shows up.

 

Another thing is the Part Time light in the dash always stays on - whether I am in 2WD or 4WD (actually tested to see if all wheels were moving). Could this be a vacuum switch? Or does that switch not control the actual light in the dash? It's not a big issue, but I'd like it to go out when 4WD isn't engaged.

[Eagle]

The six foot bed uses the 18 gallon tank. I suppose fitting the larger (23.5 G) tank is possible....

No, it is NOT possible. The larger tank won't fit the space available.