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What Could it be? *Pics and New Questions*


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It was already flanged, I just reconnected what was already there. Did I need to do something different?

 

Sometimes they rust between the nut and the tube and seize together, so that when you loosen the nut the tube twists with it and tears. Not much you can do at that point except fix it (good excuse to get a double flaring tool :cheers: )

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  • 4 months later...

I fixed this awhile back. Ended up replacing my hydraulic line and the master cylinder. It works great, but I have a question, why is there still some clutch slack? I bled until no bubbles. Clutch has good pressure, but you can still depress about an inch or so and wobble it up and down. Past that, it engages, any help?

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the slack you are talking about could be the extra play between your plunger shaft and where the acctual plunger (piston) that is in the slave cyl. Not all slaves are made exactly the same and some lock the plunger futher into the bore than say your old one. If you can get the boot off without damaging it i would pull it and move the plunger shaft in and out and see if it is just the gap between the two. If everything is working proper i wouldn't worry to much about it but if the slack bothers you enouph you could pull your old shaft out and have an experienced welder extend it a bit or try your luck at locating an adjustable legth shaft. Good luck

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You should have about an inch or so of clutch pedal free play, this allows the system to either fully engage, or disengage, and won't accidentally disengage the clutch if you bump it with your foot. It also saves your throwout bearing a whole lot of stress by having a little free play. That way its not constantly spinning the bearing with a load on it.

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You should have about an inch or so of clutch pedal free play, this allows the system to either fully engage, or disengage, and won't accidentally disengage the clutch if you bump it with your foot. It also saves your throwout bearing a whole lot of stress by having a little free play. That way its not constantly spinning the bearing with a load on it.

 

Well really the whole reason there has to be free play is to keep the throwout bearing off of the release diaphragm when not in use. Like most things there are exceptions though, as in many cable operated clutch setups there is a "constant contact" throw out bearing, necessitated by an auto-adjusting clutch pedal. In many vehicles with mechanical linkage it is common to have a throwout bearing die because of incorrect pedal free play.

 

Just to clarify image_209027.gif

 

 

It was already flanged, I just reconnected what was already there. Did I need to do something different?

 

Sometimes they rust between the nut and the tube and seize together, so that when you loosen the nut the tube twists with it and tears. Not much you can do at that point except fix it (good excuse to get a double flaring tool :cheers: )

 

A propane torch works magic with these, found that out when I redid the brakes on the Mustang, after 30+ years of it all being together, it didn't like the idea of being separated.

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