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long arm upgrade


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would i need these for my little 2.5" lift....

will it make it ride better....not so rough...

i need new uca/lcas anyways...

i just don't wanna spend a ton if i don't need to

if i just need stockies, ill get em

 

No you don't need that for 2.5" lift. The general rule of thumb when it comes to lift height and control arms is stock or aftermarket UCA and LCA are good to about 4" of lift , now from 4" and up yer gona want control arm drop bracket and preferably aftermarket control arms as the ride is gona suffer considerably not to mention the tire is gona get pulled closer to the bottom of the fender during flex and could make contact . Now its not uncommon to see guys running 6+ inches of lift using drop brackets and that's perfectly fine but flex is still hindered and short arms and drop brackets arnt the best for hardcore wheeling and that's when longarms come in and save the day! Now you could possibly run longarms on 2.5" of lift if you wanted to and just chop the hell out of the fenders and slap some 33" tires on there and that would keep the COG (center of gravity) low which is very good for offroading.

ok so which ones are the best to get .....I'm never going to lift it any higher than it is...2-3"...

i don't wanna get advance auto made in china ones

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I'm running adj arms and drop brackets with 6"+. I have matched or outflexed lots of long arm rigs. I get about 36" of articulation and at that the arms can go further,I have other things keeping me from more flex.

Same here! You really can get a bunch of flex with short arms if they have proper geometry. :cheers:

 

ok so which ones are the best to get .....I'm never going to lift it any higher than it is...2-3"...

i don't wanna get advance auto made in china ones

 

Why do you need to replace the arms? Bad bushings? If they aren't bent, rusted, or otherwise damaged, they do sell just the bushings at most parts stores. They can be a bit of a pain to change though, and you need to be careful not to damage the stamped steel.

 

And I agree with mnkyboy that if you are wanting an HD upgrade, arms designed for a 3" kit will work for you at 2". Most of the 3" arms I've seen are the same length as stock.

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short adj. arms/drop brackets < long arms

 

every time in my mind. i don't care how much flex you get, it still looks retarded with that bracket hanging down like a little wall. I'm sure it'd be cheaper that route, i can't bring myself to do it.

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  • 1 month later...

alright, its time to buy. I'm thinking now I'm going with TNT. i just liked the Y link vs. four seperate arms of Rock Krawler in the end really. plus TNT gives you a full skid plate that the Ys link into. its only a few more hundred then RK so its "hell why not" at this point.

 

for any of you guys running this setup, is there anything i need to know? any tricks, tips or advice? all would be appreciated image_209027.gif

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explain???

 

 

they just seemed easier to deal with overall and i really do like that skid plate involved in the mounting on TNTs as to where RK just has brackets hanging down. after reading through this thread again I'm sort of re-thinking it but id like to get the ball rolling since ive got my build now set on a wheelin' trip date. i just want to get at least this done, axles swapped, SOA rear and locked front. which all can be done i just need to start!

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Most 4 links still need a track bar to keep the axle centered. Triangulated is the only way to not need one because the upper links hold center. Triangulated is more common in the rear,I don't think I've ever seen it on the front of a street driven vehicle.

 

Most front 4 links are either straight or semi triangulated so they require a track bar,stock we have semi triangulated 4 link.

 

Typically 4 link is more stable at higher speeds and 3 links flex better,but that depends on the design.

 

 

Radius arms/Y links are pretty strong,easy to make,and usually cheaper then 3&4 links but do don't perform as well.

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Double triangulated 4 link fronts do not need track bars and are very stable driven on street with no issues.Links have nothing to do with flex.Its your bumpstops and limit straps that affect your flex, 3 and 4 link both flex past the limits of your rig.your driveshaft will pull out before they stop.Trackbars suck!

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Triangulated 4 link is usually not ran on the street.

 

Your track bar runs parallel with your steering link so the steering and axle move together,remove the track bar and your steering will suck,evertime your suspension moves its gonna push the steering shaft.

 

Most rigs with triangulated front run hydraulic steering and are not street driven.

 

 

And yes the links have a lot to do with flex,its the binding of the links/joints that will stop flex,this is why y links/radius arms don't flex as well as 3and4 links.

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  • 1 year later...

Jurassic thread bring back!

 

id say you get to determine how long the arms are. Cause youll be the one deciding where to put the rear connecting points in.

You can tie them into the cross member like clayton and others do, and then take measurements and make your arms.

Or you could move the buckets forward and mount em wherever you like.

Whatever you do you get to measure and make the arms the proper lengths.

 

I personally like the clayton long arms the best after looking at them, how the setup is designed and seeing reviews from a ton of people on them being used in all scenarios.

 

So maybe copy their setup and smile. :)

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