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8.25 or 44?


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8.8 if you can find one...stronger than both....Minor fab work to make it work.

 

aint that a ford axle? and thank you pete what about the 90's 8.25? and just wow Geonovast

 

Brandon

 

btw this is the axle I'm looking at out of a 1990 jeep cherokee. hears a pic:

38595024275_medium.jpg

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8.8 if you can find one...stronger than both....

That's debatable...

 

8.8" is still c-clip and a semi-floating axle. Shaft size is the same and the 8.8" only has 1 more spline. Yeah the ring gear is bigger on the 8.8" (marginally) but the carrier's are junk and often fail under stress.

 

I'd take a D44 any day over the 8.8"...

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8.8 if you can find one...stronger than both....

That's debatable...

 

8.8" is still c-clip and a semi-floating axle. Shaft size is the same and the 8.8" only has 1 more spline. Yeah the ring gear is bigger on the 8.8" (marginally) but the carrier's are junk and often fail under stress.

 

I'd take a D44 any day over the 8.8"...

 

No debate...

 

The axle shaft strength tested by Warn Ind:

F8.8= 6,500 (lb. ft.)

D44= 4,600-5,000 (lb. ft.)

D35C= 4,000-4,300 (lb. ft.)

-------------------------------

COT: Continuous output torque rating

MOT: Maximum output torque rating

 

(Numbers from January edition of Fourwheeler, page 60.)

Dana 35 rear axle COT: 870 MOT: 3480

Dana 44 rear axle COT: 1100 MOT: 4460

Ford 8.8 28spline COT: 1250 MOT: 4600

Ford 8.8 31spline COT: 1360 MOT: 5100

Dana60 semifloat COT: 1500 MOT: 5500]

 

Just my $.02

 

And BTM24, yes, it is a ford.

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that photo is of a Dana 35. :(

:doh: :( to bad i thought by what the drain plug looked like it was the 8.25 :dunno: but that just reminds me i have a lot to learn still :ack: thank you now i know i don't want it.

 

Brandon

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that photo is of a Dana 35. :(

:doh: :( to bad i thought by what the drain plug looked like it was the 8.25 :dunno: but that just reminds me i have a lot to learn still :ack: thank you now i know i don't want it.

 

Brandon

 

 

Point is, even if you get a Cherokee axle, you have to move the perches. So why not do better? The nice thing about the ford 8.8 is they are common (Explorer), there is a LOT of support for them, most come with limited slip, and post 95 come with rear disc breaks. Can be had at a pull-a-part yard for less than $100...spring perches at RuffStuff are $32.

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i tryed both lol but thank you. and i would only go with a 8.8 if it was easy two use the ford explorer to part out but i can't I'm looking for somthing that i can just rip to hell then scrap, maybe some day i might upgrade but for now a part out cherokee with a dana 44 rear end is my best hope. also thank you for that chart I'm saving that for future use :D

 

Brandon

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in addition to the cover, the 8.8 has a very flat bottom of the housing.

 

if you ever go 8.8, you need one from an Explorer. they have the right bolt pattern and width (which is up to debate since they are a hair narrower than an MJ axle). if you add a pair of quality wheel spacers to an 8.8, it'll visually fix the fact that the MJ bed is wider than the front and so the rear tires tend to look .pulled in". car-part.com may be of help. I've purchased about 30 of the things and have never paid more than 125 per.

 

an 8.25. note that the bottom of the housing has those little "ears" that stick past the cover

 

corporate8.jpg

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in addition to the cover, the 8.8 has a very flat bottom of the housing.

 

if you ever go 8.8, you need one from an Explorer. they have the right bolt pattern and width (which is up to debate since they are a hair narrower than an MJ axle). if you add a pair of quality wheel spacers to an 8.8, it'll visually fix the fact that the MJ bed is wider than the front and so the rear tires tend to look .pulled in". car-part.com may be of help. I've purchased about 30 of the things and have never paid more than 125 per.

 

an 8.25. note that the bottom of the housing has those little "ears" that stick past the cover

 

corporate8.jpg

 

thats a fast way to tell the two apart jamminz.gif maybe one day but for now a dana 44 will be of my choosing :yes: who knows if i can find it a dana 60 would beat them all :brows:

 

Brandon

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Availability of the Dana 44 under a cherokee is also debateable. It seems to have been a fairly rare option. I'm not sure Ive ever seen one, and I'm a Jeep dealer tech. I know you want a complete parts vehicle, but if you find a nice one that has everything you want except the Dana 44, you should probably get it. Part everything else out that you can sell, take your profit, and picknpull a late 8.25, or an 8.8 in the gear ratio you want. I just don't see you finding a cherokee dana 44 in a timeframe that you would be happy with. But I wish you luck anyways!

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Availability of the Dana 44 under a cherokee is also debateable. It seems to have been a fairly rare option. I'm not sure Ive ever seen one, and I'm a Jeep dealer tech. I know you want a complete parts vehicle, but if you find a nice one that has everything you want except the Dana 44, you should probably get it. Part everything else out that you can sell, take your profit, and picknpull a late 8.25, or an 8.8 in the gear ratio you want. I just don't see you finding a cherokee dana 44 in a timeframe that you would be happy with. But I wish you luck anyways!

 

I highlighted the important part for you. 4.10s are common in 8.8s, available in 8.25s, and super duper rare in 44s.

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Availability of the Dana 44 under a cherokee is also debateable. It seems to have been a fairly rare option. I'm not sure Ive ever seen one, and I'm a Jeep dealer tech. I know you want a complete parts vehicle, but if you find a nice one that has everything you want except the Dana 44, you should probably get it. Part everything else out that you can sell, take your profit, and picknpull a late 8.25, or an 8.8 in the gear ratio you want. I just don't see you finding a cherokee dana 44 in a timeframe that you would be happy with. But I wish you luck anyways!

 

I highlighted the important part for you. 4.10s are common in 8.8s, available in 8.25s, and super duper rare in 44s.

 

are 4:10's good? btw what is a good gear rate i should also look for? thank you

 

Brandon

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thats a fast way to tell the two apart jamminz.gif maybe one day but for now a dana 44 will be of my choosing :yes: who knows if i can find it a dana 60 would beat them all :brows:

 

Brandon

 

Unless you are going to run huge tires, the D60 is so big it will act like an anchor every time it gets hung up on a rock.

 

Jimmy is in love with the 8.8 for reasons unknown to me. Yes, it is a good axle. No it is not the holy grail. I vote for a 97+ (some 96 as well, but not all) 8.25". They are easy to find, inexpensive, correct width, correct wheel bolt pattern, correct yoke and correct parking brake hook up, and plenty strong enough.

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since it can cost up to 600 smackers just to change the gear ratio in an axle, the ratio is generally the most important factor in choosing your axles. just so we can keep the terminology straight, the number comes from dividing the number of teeth on the ring gear by the number of teeth on the pinion gear, and the bigger the number the "lower" the gear ratio, the lower the number, the "higher" the ratio. that's what they are called. I didn't make the rules. :yes: anywho, for bigger tires, you need lower gears (higher number) or your truck will no longer have the proper leverage to push the tires around and it'll feel more sluggish. 4.56 was used in some older Jeeps, but the most realistic low ratio you're likely to come across is 4.10. In Jeeps this is typically found behind 2.5L/5spds. In Explorers, you really need to check the tag on the diff or the code in the door to know for sure. 3.73 was very common in Explorers, but don't buy one til you can find a matching Jeep front axle. 3.73 was very rare in the Jeep front axles you'll want to find. If you can't verify the ratio by normal means, you can rotate the brake rotor/drum around and count the times the pinion rotates. if both rotors/drum rotate together in the same direction (meaning it likely has a functional posi), rotate them around once. if they move in opposite directions, brace one stationary and rotate the other twice. if one is already stuck in place, then just rotate the free one twice.

 

my favorite reason for the 8.8 is the availability of 4.10s

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since it can cost up to 600 smackers just to change the gear ratio in an axle, the ratio is generally the most important factor in choosing your axles. just so we can keep the terminology straight, the number comes from dividing the number of teeth on the ring gear by the number of teeth on the pinion gear, and the bigger the number the "lower" the gear ratio, the lower the number, the "higher" the ratio. that's what they are called. I didn't make the rules. :yes: anywho, for bigger tires, you need lower gears (higher number) or your truck will no longer have the proper leverage to push the tires around and it'll feel more sluggish. 4.56 was used in some older Jeeps, but the most realistic low ratio you're likely to come across is 4.10. In Jeeps this is typically found behind 2.5L/5spds. In Explorers, you really need to check the tag on the diff or the code in the door to know for sure. 3.73 was very common in Explorers, but don't buy one til you can find a matching Jeep front axle. 3.73 was very rare in the Jeep front axles you'll want to find. If you can't verify the ratio by normal means, you can rotate the brake rotor/drum around and count the times the pinion rotates. if both rotors/drum rotate together in the same direction (meaning it likely has a functional posi), rotate them around once. if they move in opposite directions, brace one stationary and rotate the other twice. if one is already stuck in place, then just rotate the free one twice.

 

my favorite reason for the 8.8 is the availability of 4.10s

 

so like a 3:55 or 4:10 would be what I'm looking for then? and they are gears that can also be found in dana 44's right? thanks

 

Brandon

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3.55 or 3.07 are what you're likely to find in a 44. 4.10 will be exceedingly rare since it would have had to be born behind a Metric Ton MJ with a 2.5L engine. they didn't make many of those. :shake: both ratios will suck if you go too big on the tires.

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3.55 or 3.07 are what you're likely to find in a 44. 4.10 will be exceedingly rare since it would have had to be born behind a Metric Ton MJ with a 2.5L engine. they didn't make many of those. :shake: both ratios will suck if you go too big on the tires.

 

so are 33" tires "big"?

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8.8 if you can find one...stronger than both....Minor fab work to make it work.

Fab work plus rear u-joint conversion plus wheel spacers.

 

IMHO the 8.25 (the '97+ 29-spline version) is a far more logical choice for an MJ.

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