case5412 Posted September 21, 2010 Share Posted September 21, 2010 I'm trying to buy a SUA lift for my 92 Comanche and I'm not sure what these options means. They offer two different lifts, one is around 500$ and the other is 800$, I want to get the best choice so I'll probably go with the more expensive one, but I'm not sure if it's neccessary. http://www.hellcreeksuspensions.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted September 21, 2010 Share Posted September 21, 2010 you get a full spring pack for the rear with the 800 dollar one. the other is just a add-a-leaf and shackles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
case5412 Posted September 21, 2010 Author Share Posted September 21, 2010 This is what I'm considering for the front axle. I have the axle but I do not know what mounts I'll need with this certian kit. http://02ea137.netsolstores.com/fronttruss-wagoneerd4480.aspx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 21, 2010 Share Posted September 21, 2010 if that truss has the stock MJ mounting points in it, then any MJ lift kit will work with it. :thumbsup: just tell them to build your truss for an MJ/XJ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted September 21, 2010 Share Posted September 21, 2010 I checked all the options you'd need and it comes to $475. You can get an entire high pinion D30 out of a Cherokee, Grand Cherokee or Comanche for less than half that much. Correct width, correct yoke for the drive shaft, correct bolt pattern for the stock wheels, correct width and with just a little bit of looking, the correct gearing. Even after spending the $475, that Wagoneer axle most likely has 2.72 gears and would need regeared. That's another $500 to $1000. Go with the advice already given in your other thread. A high pinion D30 will be a much easier swap, with less to be done to it, for much less money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
case5412 Posted September 22, 2010 Author Share Posted September 22, 2010 I checked all the options you'd need and it comes to $475. You can get an entire high pinion D30 out of a Cherokee, Grand Cherokee or Comanche for less than half that much. Correct width, correct yoke for the drive shaft, correct bolt pattern for the stock wheels, correct width and with just a little bit of looking, the correct gearing. Even after spending the $475, that Wagoneer axle most likely has 2.72 gears and would need regeared. That's another $500 to $1000. Go with the advice already given in your other thread. A high pinion D30 will be a much easier swap, with less to be done to it, for much less money. Sure I care about the money, but I don't want it alone to make my choices for me. I want the look of the D44s and the uniqueness of the Waggy, and sure I'm afraid of the hickups involved but I hope to overcome them with as little pain as possible. The Waggy D44 is geared at 3.07 I believe, I posted pictures in the other thread. Do you know about the gear ratios? What can I do with 3.07, because I have the rear axle also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted September 22, 2010 Share Posted September 22, 2010 3.07 gears are what the Comanche uses stock with the 4.0 litre stick shift. It is adequate for stock tires, not for 33s. I suggest at LEAST 4.10, if you're regearing anyway I'd opt for 4.56. And the pics of that axle show it upside down. It's a passenger side diff and will not work with that truss, and will not work with a 231 or 242 transfer case (driver side drop). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 22, 2010 Share Posted September 22, 2010 if you find a Rodeo axle with 4.10s or 4.30s, get the front geared to match. (I believe 4.27 is the closest you'll get to 4.30, but it's within the accepted ratio discrepancies.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
case5412 Posted September 22, 2010 Author Share Posted September 22, 2010 3.07 gears are what the Comanche uses stock with the 4.0 litre stick shift. It is adequate for stock tires, not for 33s. I suggest at LEAST 4.10, if you're regearing anyway I'd opt for 4.56. And the pics of that axle show it upside down. It's a passenger side diff and will not work with that truss, and will not work with a 231 or 242 transfer case (driver side drop). Yep, I just checked, freaking axle is upside down. Where do find such stupid mechanics. I guess I won't be putting that axle on my truck. But since you said that my stock gear ratio is 3.07, which it is I just looked it up, where do I get the proper gear ratio axles? What does the gear ratio actually mean? Does it mean it moves slower the higher the number? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 22, 2010 Share Posted September 22, 2010 the bottom line in ratios is that if the number is too low (which is called a high ratio) for you combo of engine size and tire diameter, your truck will be the biggest pile of sluggish crap. Too high of a number (which is called a low ratio). and it'll spin 4k on the freeway but will have gobs of lowspeed power. the key is finding the right middle ground Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
case5412 Posted September 22, 2010 Author Share Posted September 22, 2010 the bottom line in ratios is that if the number is too low (which is called a high ratio) for you combo of engine size and tire diameter, your truck will be the biggest pile of sluggish crap. Too high of a number (which is called a low ratio). and it'll spin 4k on the freeway but will have gobs of lowspeed power. the key is finding the right middle ground Would I do alright with 31" tires a 3" lift and the 3.07 gear ratio? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 22, 2010 Share Posted September 22, 2010 in my opinion 3.07 gears SUCK under any conditions. :fs1: 3.55 geared axles are by far the most common axles under XJs (4.0/auto) and would be much better (but still not quite ideal) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted September 22, 2010 Share Posted September 22, 2010 Since he has a stick shift, 3.55s with 31" tires gives you the same final drive ratio as stock. If he thinks the current performance is okay, 3.55 with 31s will be okay as well. The 3.07 gears, designed for 27" tires will suck with 31s. 31s will work fine with a 3" lift, but on stock wheels will work even without a lift (even though you'd have to find a set of stock wheels). So no lift, 2" budget boost, or 3" lift, that's up to you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
case5412 Posted September 22, 2010 Author Share Posted September 22, 2010 Since he has a stick shift, 3.55s with 31" tires gives you the same final drive ratio as stock. If he thinks the current performance is okay, 3.55 with 31s will be okay as well. The 3.07 gears, designed for 27" tires will suck with 31s. 31s will work fine with a 3" lift, but on stock wheels will work even without a lift (even though you'd have to find a set of stock wheels). So no lift, 2" budget boost, or 3" lift, that's up to you. well there's a left over lift sitting around at this shop so I'm thinking about using it, because I'd like it to be a little higher. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted September 22, 2010 Share Posted September 22, 2010 I've found the best gearing for a Renix 4.0 with 5 speed/33" tires is 3.73 because 4.10 took away all my top speed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted September 22, 2010 Share Posted September 22, 2010 I've found the best gearing for a Renix 4.0 with 5 speed/33" tires is 3.73 because 4.10 took away all my top speed! makes mathematical sense. a 33 is 15% larger than a 28.5 (235/75/15) and 3.07x1.15=3.55, then consider that most trucks came factory with 215s not 235s and it leaves you with 3.73s (that and the fact that the tires weigh more.) but in reality the gear choice depends on what you're doing. if you wan't good fuel economy and plan on driving 15k+ a year in the truck or doing any highway time you want to go numerically lower (3.73s or so) if you're planning on driving it 5-10K a year and don't foresee any long-distance trips in it, you'll like the power and feel of 4.10s, if you're planning on straight offroad, go ahead and shoot low (numerically high) for the 4.56-4.88s you'll have tons of low end grunt, accelerate like a bat-outta-hell and it'lll be easier on the clutch offroad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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