comanche12 Posted September 2, 2010 Share Posted September 2, 2010 hey guys, i just installed mine few days ago and finally tested it and noticed rpm is dead, fuel act weird and battery didn't do anything so maybe i hook some wires wrong? there only 2 wires that didnt attach are white thick wire(12-14gauge) from wiring harness and blue/w white or yellow trim (14-18 gauges from cluster gauge connector. those neither wires aren't available to match. do u guys know what those wires r for? white as for seat belt alarm? blue maybe ignition or tach? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted September 2, 2010 Share Posted September 2, 2010 so the colors on the wiring connector you had to re-splice were different? what year is your truck? I can try and cross-reference colors for you. but disconnect that connector immediately so that nothing gets fried out! -pat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche12 Posted September 2, 2010 Author Share Posted September 2, 2010 maybe i dk if its resplice? but in general i knw my mj have been customed wires aka previous owner hooked the aux fan wires to manual switch but i fixed it to back to auto but i want manual too for during wheelin also there other more than just aux fan. :( damn previous owner :doh: my mj is 1987 4.0l ax15 4x4 i didnt disconnect, but i disconnect the battery tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted September 2, 2010 Share Posted September 2, 2010 I'm confused. What's this about splices and extra wires? The cluster swap is (or should be ) 100 percent plug-and-play at the dashboard. Take the old one out, put the new one in. The ONLY changes necessary are to replace the temperature sender in the head and the oil pressure sender next to the oil filter with the senders for use with gauges. Did you cut and splice wires under the dashboard? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche12 Posted September 2, 2010 Author Share Posted September 2, 2010 I'm confused. What's this about splices and extra wires? The cluster swap is (or should be ) 100 percent plug-and-play at the dashboard. Take the old one out, put the new one in. The ONLY changes necessary are to replace the temperature sender in the head and the oil pressure sender next to the oil filter with the senders for use with gauges. Did you cut and splice wires under the dashboard? exactly i was think same but well there only two that isnt match as i found out. no i didnt cut and splice the wires. also other questrion about ect wires. its been two purple wires but why there two sperate? wield them together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche12 Posted September 2, 2010 Author Share Posted September 2, 2010 BTW I'm gonna to stop by autozone to get temp sensor # TU108 wells and oil pressure #ps133 duralast which r cheap than i expect. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/how- ... cs-424209/ ill be right back to autozone now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted September 2, 2010 Share Posted September 2, 2010 I'm confused. What's this about splices and extra wires? The cluster swap is (or should be ) 100 percent plug-and-play at the dashboard. Take the old one out, put the new one in. The ONLY changes necessary are to replace the temperature sender in the head and the oil pressure sender next to the oil filter with the senders for use with gauges. Did you cut and splice wires under the dashboard? Eagle, someone hacked out the factory harness connectors and tossed them while attempting to use a '96 cluster. I sold him a Renix Cluster I had, and cut out the 2 connectors out of the Renix to sell to him. Apparently the truck I got the connectors out of had a slightly different wiring layout than the stock ones to his truck. Rob L. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche12 Posted September 2, 2010 Author Share Posted September 2, 2010 I'm confused. What's this about splices and extra wires? The cluster swap is (or should be ) 100 percent plug-and-play at the dashboard. Take the old one out, put the new one in. The ONLY changes necessary are to replace the temperature sender in the head and the oil pressure sender next to the oil filter with the senders for use with gauges. Did you cut and splice wires under the dashboard? Eagle, someone hacked out the factory harness connectors and tossed them while attempting to use a '96 cluster. I sold him a Renix Cluster I had, and cut out the 2 connectors out of the Renix to sell to him. Apparently the truck I got the connectors out of had a slightly different wiring layout than the stock ones to his truck. Rob L. also i noticed that renix i got from your mj... that mj is which a automatic while mine is manual so maybe those wires from renix r for auto wiring harness? :dunno: anyway... I'm back from autozone, they don't have parts but other place does so they will shipment to my autozone by tomorrow. :ack: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wannabeMJ Posted September 2, 2010 Share Posted September 2, 2010 BTW I'm gonna to stop by autozone to get temp sensor # TU108 wells and oil pressure #ps133 duralast which r cheap than i expect. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/how- ... cs-424209/ ill be right back to autozone now how much did you pay for those its my next bye?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche12 Posted September 3, 2010 Author Share Posted September 3, 2010 22 dollars for total plus tax. :) cheaper than i thought i was think it should be like 30-40 edit: sorry guys my cluster gauges work now by miracle! since i just remove the cluster and check connector to see if it updown or not then i checked the wires again to see if I'm right hook them up. then cranking the engine... click click... damn battery. jumped it with my subaru :roll: import helped america truck... how embarrassed is it. cranking again and finally started, rpm worked! fuel i dk its said about half, battery. little under the 14 v. oil pressure. obv way off haha and ect....... wth??? its work? its climb up slow? btw my rpm running seem low. way under 500rpm? here's the pic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted September 3, 2010 Share Posted September 3, 2010 btw my rpm running seem low. way under 500rpm? here's the pic. You are reading the tachometer incorrectly. The photo shows it reading approximately 550 RPM. The first mark above the bottom is 500 RPM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche12 Posted September 3, 2010 Author Share Posted September 3, 2010 btw my rpm running seem low. way under 500rpm? here's the pic. You are reading the tachometer incorrectly. The photo shows it reading approximately 550 RPM. The first mark above the bottom is 500 RPM. well its look like under 500 to me haha well is that normal for mj? my subaru idling about 500 to 1000 depend on outside tempature Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted September 3, 2010 Share Posted September 3, 2010 That first tick above the zero IS 500 RPM. Your needle is pointing slightly above the 500 mark. Idle spec IIRC is 650, so you're close. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche12 Posted September 3, 2010 Author Share Posted September 3, 2010 That first tick above the zero IS 500 RPM. Your needle is pointing slightly above the 500 mark. Idle spec IIRC is 650, so you're close. alright good but is there anyway that i can recalibrate or something like that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88SporTruck Posted September 3, 2010 Share Posted September 3, 2010 The cluster matches the engine right? I know on some cars a 4cyl cluster tach will not work right on a 6cyl engine or vice versa. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted September 3, 2010 Share Posted September 3, 2010 That first tick above the zero IS 500 RPM. Your needle is pointing slightly above the 500 mark. Idle spec IIRC is 650, so you're close. alright good but is there anyway that i can recalibrate or something like that? Yes, it can be calibrated ... but you don't know if it's wrong. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche12 Posted September 3, 2010 Author Share Posted September 3, 2010 That first tick above the zero IS 500 RPM. Your needle is pointing slightly above the 500 mark. Idle spec IIRC is 650, so you're close. alright good but is there anyway that i can recalibrate or something like that? Yes, it can be calibrated ... but you don't know if it's wrong. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. alright thats true haha :agree: thanks! sorry guys to waste ur time to read this thread tho I'm gonna get sensors now. should junkyard have speedcable clip for my cluster? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche12 Posted September 4, 2010 Author Share Posted September 4, 2010 wth... just replaced the oil pressure and wire since its had bad corrosion and now gauge is not work still.... ect seem work fine steady on 150- 180 *F oilpressure is still way off i got the oilpressure #PS133. also now all my lights didnt turn on. parking light, instrument light and taillight??? only headlight is work?? i checked fuse and its fine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gl1200aman Posted September 4, 2010 Share Posted September 4, 2010 Have you checked all your ground wires? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche12 Posted September 4, 2010 Author Share Posted September 4, 2010 yup and i just tried jump the wire on switch. light work so should it mean switch is bad? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche12 Posted September 5, 2010 Author Share Posted September 5, 2010 OMG i just recheck my part# of oil pressure. its frick ps123 not ps133 which i request... i can't believe that autozone gave me wrong part # :mad: its been anwhile to be so pissed at autozone for make me drive alot to find that wrong part :fs1: ok I'm calm down and will go back to autozone and get right part # for oil pressure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted September 5, 2010 Share Posted September 5, 2010 i can't believe that autozone gave me wrong part # :mad: Really? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche12 Posted September 5, 2010 Author Share Posted September 5, 2010 yes really.... lol i can't believe it. that part was for low oil pressure warning light only not the gauge :doh: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted September 5, 2010 Share Posted September 5, 2010 Most clerks at Autozone don't know anything. He probably figured they're all the same. I have three Autozone stores in more or less an equidistant radius around me. Out of the three stores, there's one guy who works at one of the stores during the shift when I usually can't get there who knows anything. The rest of them are total ciphers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche12 Posted September 5, 2010 Author Share Posted September 5, 2010 Most clerks at Autozone don't know anything. He probably figured they're all the same. I have three Autozone stores in more or less an equidistant radius around me. Out of the three stores, there's one guy who works at one of the stores during the shift when I usually can't get there who knows anything. The rest of them are total ciphers. thats what I'm thinking... they should hiring me indeed! I'm still looking for a job since more than 6 months :fs1: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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