SW86 Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 alright ive got the bolts off the cap but now the cap won't budge. i loosened the second to last to see if it would help :nuts: but nothing. should i just use a scraper to tap it free a little or would i mess anything up by doing so? i just went to try it after typing that annnnd nothing... is there a trick or something to it maybe? has to be :wall: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WBKrazy Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 wiggle it, and smack it with a small hammer at the same time.. usually works Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red 1989 MJ Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 Maybe that could help :D viewtopic.php?f=2&t=23217&hilit=RMS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted July 20, 2010 Author Share Posted July 20, 2010 i got it off with a few good hits from a rubber mallet. i struggled to get one seal off. (in the cap) but the one in the block won't budge. ive hit it LOTS of times directly on the metal wire and nothing. i guess i should just keep at it and itll have to give sometime right Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted July 20, 2010 Author Share Posted July 20, 2010 alright still no movement out of the upper seal. ive been reading this thread here viewtopic.php?f=3&t=18276&p=186021&hilit=RMS+socket+size#p186021 and it seems i should just roll the engine over a few times and it should be easier to get out. I'm kind of like :dunno: at this point so is this a good idea or any other suggestions would be awsome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WBKrazy Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 i just did mine, it really helps if you loosen ALL the bearing caps.... with them all loose you can pull the crank down a tiny bit... i tried for a while with only 2 caps loose, then i loosened them all up and had the upper seal out very quickly.. you shouldn't have to pull the bolts all the way out either, just enough for the cap to slide down an inch or two... just remember to retorque them all afterwards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 I used a steel Craftsman alignment dowel, hammer, and lots of careful alignment and holding my breath prior to each hit. I originally tried tapping but ultimately had to hit the old RMS pretty hard 3 or 4X to get it moving. I didn't loosen any of the other bearing caps when I was pulling the seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 I loosened the last 4 bearing caps, and had someone turn the motor as I tapped the upper seal out. Worked great, just wear good safety glasses, and keep your mouth closed, unless you like the taste of oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 21, 2010 Share Posted July 21, 2010 a small brass dowel is your friend here. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted July 21, 2010 Share Posted July 21, 2010 I usually put the bolts in but not thread them in... But just slide them in, then pinch them together with my hand and use them to rock back and fourth to break the grip. Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted July 21, 2010 Author Share Posted July 21, 2010 didnt get it out today :( and i spent most of the day out there. but at least i know whats going on in there and what i need to do for sure. ill loosen the rest of the caps and have someone spin it while i tap. hope it works :cheers: thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted July 21, 2010 Share Posted July 21, 2010 Just make sure they're spinning it the right way. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted July 21, 2010 Author Share Posted July 21, 2010 been out there trying for a good hour and nothing. hasnt even moved in the slightest. right now I'm a combination of pissed and bummed out. ill give it another go in a little while but I'm not holding my breath. and i hope we turned it the right way! if your standing in front of the truck we turned it to the left. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted July 22, 2010 Share Posted July 22, 2010 Well.. the motor spins clockwise, but, it depends on which side of the RMS you're hitting. If you're spinning the motor clockwise, you should be tapping on the passenger side of the RMS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted July 22, 2010 Author Share Posted July 22, 2010 sounds like i was doing it right then :D I'm just going to keep at it. my hits with the hammer are getting harder but i need to go look at some more tools tomorrow. thanks for the replies Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 22, 2010 Share Posted July 22, 2010 get a straw from a wd40 can and put it on a pb blaster can. stick the straw up in there as best you can and be sure to have eye protection. then get yourself an appropriately sized brass punch and wail on it. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted July 23, 2010 Author Share Posted July 23, 2010 I @#$%ING GOT IT! good god it took forever until i went and bought these http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200305339 you only need the middle one which you can buy seperate but hell why not get all three. anyway i hit it two times with that and boom its out. i still had to have someone turn it over while i used finger pressure to hold it against the shaft so it would spin out on its own. very easy. maybe now i can finally drive the @#$%er again thanks for the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted July 23, 2010 Share Posted July 23, 2010 Getting it out is 1/3 the battle. You still have to get the new one in without destroying it, and many, many prayers that it won't leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Automan2164 Posted July 23, 2010 Share Posted July 23, 2010 I @#$% GOT IT! good god it took forever until i went and bought these http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200305339 you only need the middle one which you can buy seperate but hell why not get all three. anyway i hit it two times with that and boom its out. i still had to have someone turn it over while i used finger pressure to hold it against the shaft so it would spin out on its own. very easy. maybe now i can finally drive the @#$% again thanks for the help Yikes! Steel tools. Hope that didn't contact the main journal. Rob L. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted July 24, 2010 Author Share Posted July 24, 2010 i got the new one in no probs at all. i doubt itll leak but who knows. i fear the oil pan will though, i couldnt get through the whole pan before the RVT started to cure. plus the back of the gasket keeps wanting to poke out of the back when i tightened the 13s down. ill get a better look today since light was fading yesterday. i couldnt find bass punches like those. so i just made sure i had a VERY steady hand and it didnt jump when i hit it. which it did the first time but only a little, the second hit knocked it free. compaired to the other punches i had/used id go the route i went again anyday. thanks again guys :thumbsup: this forum has really payed off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted July 24, 2010 Share Posted July 24, 2010 Don't tell me you put a cork gasket on the pan... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted July 24, 2010 Share Posted July 24, 2010 I @#$% GOT IT! good god it took forever until i went and bought these http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200305339 Told you the alignment dowel was the way to go! Glad you got it out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted July 24, 2010 Author Share Posted July 24, 2010 nah i went with the rubber and got it to do right. i just fired it up though (it was nice to hear it again) and it started to take a piss right away. IMO it looked like it was coming out of the rear of the oil pan but ill have a look at everything since ill be in there again. but hey at least it won't be THAT hard this time :roll: plus when you take off the pan theres a metal (retaining?) clip on the back of the pan. does that go on the outside or inside of the pan. its been so long since i took it off i can't remember. i put it on the outside over the hump. seemed right and yeah that dowel saved me from a lot of bs with the ones i had. thanks man :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted July 24, 2010 Share Posted July 24, 2010 Did you RTV the two parts of the RMS together? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW86 Posted July 27, 2010 Author Share Posted July 27, 2010 yeah i put rtv on the seals and around them a little like haynes said too. its not pissing anymore just leaking a few drips while idling but as soon as i hit the gas it starts to. not fast or a lot just a thin steady stream. smoke is also coming from back around there now too. i fugred oil hitting the exhaust but its not.? any thoughts about why it would? i might just take it and PAY someone to do it instead of burning through half a day, letting it cure, then only to have it leak again. I'm thinking id let the seals soak in some oil to expand or what have you but i seriously doubt itll stop anything. $#!& you might end up seeing another "killing a Comanche" video on youtube if this bs keeps up :grrrr: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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