Lets talk lockers

[MjPioneer]

I need help ending a little arguement that is going on amongst people I wheel with. If you have a posi rear end, will you need a locker in there? Or will just locking up the front sufice as the rearened is already spining both tires equaly.

 

None of us have posi to test this theory, but we have formed opinions and I'm sick of hearing the bickering back and fourth over this.

[Incommando]

The factory limited slip diff (LSD) is iffy. The aptly-named trash-loc has a pretty low bias ( meaning that it doesn't take much to overcome the clutches and make it "open") and the clutches wear very quickly. Without frequent changing of the posi additive, i have read that most are almost ineffective but 50,000 miles.

 

The problem is that, except for the D44 which has a no-slip brand drop in locker available for it, you can only get drop-in lockers for open diff carriers. So, you have to either replace your LSD carrier to go with a drop-in ( lunch box) locker or buy $$$ full case carrier like a Detroit.

 

Now, the debate about where to put a locker if you only have one is in no way settled. You would be much better, IMHO, with a locker up front and a functioning LSD in the rear than you would be with an open front and a locked rear.

 

Clear as mud?? lol

[kastein]

Dunno, what rear diff do you have? If you've got a 35 still, I have a trac-lok carrier and spiders/sides you can have to test this out... it of course needs new carrier bearings, backlash setting, and frictions, though.

 

Got it free when I picked up a turdy5 from a friend for spare parts, so it's yours free to end the debate if you so desire.

[Pete M]

rule of thumb: if a factory posi is still in functioning condition, it'll suffice for most wheeling situations for light rigs on smaller tires. add in big tires, heavy rigs or lifting a tire and the posi will allow differentiation (read: loss of traction) and even worse, will quickly wear out.

[CWLONGSHOT]

As described, this is a debate for the eons. Miss information abounds. With out insulting, we do not know what you know.

 

You have a couple good explanations of a factory clutch type limited slip differential. But that's the tip of the LS picture. Age of the unit and its manufacture makes big differences. Again as mentioned the jeep/ford Track loc differentials are anemic at best. Torsens and Tru-tracs are about the best. One thing in common with all limited slip diffs is lift a tire and you have defeated them. The best ones are very good in front axles with a locker in the rear. They allow for steering when a locker will at the very least restrict the ability to steer. Most of us drive our trucks on the street daily then wheel it on the weekends. most of us would be best served with this kind of setup.

 

Lockers lock the two axle shafts. No matter what happens to the tires. Lift a tire in the air and it still turns no faster then the one on the other side of the axle tube. Resulting in nearly no loss in forward momentum.

 

Whats the best setup? Who knows it will drastically change with ones driving style, driving experience and trail conditions. Personally, I have always done a rear locker first, followed by a tru-trac or another locker up front. Its not rite or wrong, simply what I have done.

 

CW

[jpnjim]

Some LSD's are OK,

I ran 4.56's, and a Power-Lok for a few years (w/open front) before swapping the LSD for a rear spool.

 

The Power-Lok had been set up very 'tight' (previous owner had the axle under a drag car),

and though the spool was an upgrade,

it wasn't the night and day difference I was hoping for.

 

 

 

When I finally put a lockright in the front axle,

that was a much greater improvement than the change from Power Lok, to Spool was.

 

 

 

FWIW, the Spool/Lockright combo only lasted a few months.

My turning radius got so bad,

I pulled the Spool for a full Detroit, first chance I got.

(turning radius came right back with the Detroit in).

[Blue XJ]

I would leave the rear how it is, and lock the front. I have had locked front / open rear, open front / locked rear, and locked front and rear. The biggest noticeable improvement was the front locker. I ran just an Aussie up front for quite a few years and really enjoyed it. I did not enjoy having a lunch box in the rear, so I switched to a selectable. Of course now I have no complaints with front and rear arb's, but its not cheap. The best bang for the buck is a $250 aussie up front.