bleeding an external slave AX15

[mjeff87]

(also posted on NAXJA.....)

 

Long story short, I swapped AX15's in my MJ to an external slave setup. Sourced a sealed, prebled master/hydraulic line/slave assembly from the junkyard but awhile ago, I seperated the slave and hydraulic line from the master because Pat needed the slave. He ended up not using it and I got it back, reattached the master and put it all in my heep.

 

There's a small allen head setscrew in the top of the slave that I cracked open to bleed the assembly (and got showered with brake fluid in the process), and I've got a somewhat good pedal but I know there's still air in the system. Anyone ever successfully bled one of these "sealed, pre-bled" assemblies?

 

I was thinking about replacing the setscrew with a conventional bleed screw....anyone happen to know the thread/pitch of it?

 

TIA,

 

Jeff

[Pete M]

it's been a while since I've looked at it (and it's possible mine might be different), but shouldn't that allen screw be on the bottom of the unit? :hmm:

[mjeff87]

I dunno......it fit both ways, so I decided that it being on the top was better than being on the bottom :dunce:

 

Guy on NAXJA says to reverse-bleed it (remove the slave and keep pumping the rod until there's no more air bubbles in the master. Sounds good to me. I'll give it a shot tonight and see what happens.

 

Jeff

[Eagle]

I dunno......it fit both ways, so I decided that it being on the top was better than being on the bottom :dunce:

 

Guy on NAXJA says to reverse-bleed it (remove the slave and keep pumping the rod until there's no more air bubbles in the master. Sounds good to me. I'll give it a shot tonight and see what happens.

 

Jeff

I don't see any reason at all why that could possibly work.

[mjeff87]

that's what I like about you Eagle......your eternal optimism :yes:

 

Something about holding the slave in a downward position while engaging the pushrod, the air in it collects at the rear and you have to force it back upward. Dunno, it's worth a shot anyway.

 

I can drive it as is, but I don't like where the disengagement point is, and there's a bit of pedal free travel from the resting position.

 

We'll see what happens. Can't make it any worse :D

 

Jeff

[mjeff87]

well, the verdict is in......it worked :thumbsup:

 

unbolted the slave and pulled the pushrod out of the bell, pointed it straight down and with the cap off the master started pumping the pushrod in and out. After about 10-15 short pumps I heard a "bloop" and crawled out to check the fluid level. It had dropped by about half. Filled it back up and gave it a few dozen more pumps (didn't hear any more bubbles coming from up top) and bolted it all back up. I now have a full clutch.

 

Now if I can only find someplace in this hick town that sells Redline, and Spicer u-joints, I'll be a happy man. I decided to try running 10W30 instead of gear lube, and while it's working ok, there's no noticeable improvement in shifting, so I'm gonna treat it to some good stuff (if I can find it :fs1: )

 

Jeff

[Swampy]

How do you remove the roll pin from an external slave to replace it with a new part? I blew mine out and I can't seem to get it out

[Kickin’Chicken]

Glad to see that it worked!

[cerial]

8 year old thread;

But on the roll pin you just use a pair of pliers off setting the teeth so one is higher then the other with something the size of the roll pin to push against the higher one. Then you just squeeze gently until the roll pin moves 1/4" out then pull the pin out the rest of the way with the pliers.

 

When replacing the pin be careful of the O ring. It is easy to rip the o ring and If to rips they can sometimes be hard to find just a replacement o ring as it is some weird size.

[mjeff87]

^^^^yeah, that.