2WD driveshaft u-joints same as 4WD driveshaft u-joints?

[gradon]

So I have this nice clunking noise when I come to a stop/coast below 10mph. I grabbed the driveshaft and felt and saw the play in the u-joint closest to the tranny. I went to AA to buy u-joints and all 6-8 of them were specified 4wd. Does the 2wd use the same u-joints as the 4wd? This is an '88 2wd BA10 Eliminator.

[Pete M]

Yup, they are the same. just make sure you buy driveshaft joints and not axleshaft joints. :thumbsup:

[gradon]

Thanks man!

[HOrnbrod]

And get the greasable joints, Spicer 1310's, they'll last forever if you keep them greased.

[BORDENCOMANCHE]

yep greased one so good, it broke the retaining clip and flew right off the front yoke :D Exactly one minute before I was about to wheel.

 

(Could be that I was smashed drunk installing it) :cheers:

[HOrnbrod]

U-joints should always be greased with a hand grease gun mate. :cheers:

[Rohls]

hate to resurrect such an old thread...but i guess better than started a new one with the same question...

 

What is the spicer part number I need for both/either the front and rear driveshaft u-joints? Mentioned above is the Spicer 1310...but is that specific enough? Sorry, just don't want to order the wrong stuff. Would this be the S-153X?

 

And is greasable really better in these locations? I replaced the front with non-greasable because they are a little stronger...plus the OEM ones are not greasable, right? Least they aren't in my rig...

 

Thanks! 

 

I have the 4x4 4.0 5-speed MJ if it matters.

[Keyav8r]

Yes, regreasable joints are better - if you regrease them. Regreasing the joint provides fresh lubricant and flushes contaminants (water, mud, etc.) out of the joint and therefore prolongs the service life. As Hornbrob said, regrease with a hand grease gun. The powered guns can develop enough pressure to damage the seals.

Non-greasable joints are lower cost because it takes less machine work to make them. OEM parts are usually selected based on (a) meeting a minimum performance specification and (b) lowest cost. It's never wrong to use better parts, especially if you plan to use your vehicle for heavier duty service than the original design.

[HOrnbrod]

Either Spicer 5-153X U-Joint (greasable) or Spicer 5-1310X U-Joint (non-greasable) are fine - your choice.

 

For the greasable joints, I remove the supplied grease fittings and replace them with 1/4 x 28 "flush" type fittings. This makes it much easier to grease the joint by using a needle attachment on the grease gun.

 

 

[Gene]

Hi everyone,

 

Sort of off topic here.

 

Universal joints for front axle shafts (88, obviously four-wheel-drive.)

 

My right side has greaseable joint, the grease fitting was in the cross itself. This fitting broke off, every once in a while I try to shoot some grease into the broken stub of fitting that remains.

 

Left side has greaseable U joint, with the grease fitting in the bearing cap. When I grease this, grease will ooze out of three of the bearing caps, not out of the fourth.

 

So I imagine  eventually I'll have to replace these. I'd like to stick with greasable, and I think fitting on the bearing cap is better.

 

Yes? No?

 

And if anyone has Spicer part numbers, that would be greatly appreciated

 

Thanks.

 

Gene