question about painting an MJ

[mjtjnj]

No, I'm not painting it! I just got a rust free long box on my 87. I put new studs in it (it was off an 86) and mounted it on top, haven't bolted anything down, waiting for all the snow to melt. I was talking to a buddy of mine, and I told him I want to paint it that flat, desert sand/military color (it's now Cordovan). He said that before I bolt the bed down, I should maybe get a rattle can and spray the back of the cab and the front of the box, since the paint shop might not be able to get in there. Does anyone here think I should? Would a body shop want to take the box off to paint in between the cab and the bed? Sounds like a stupid question, but I know nothing about paintwork.

 

Thanks

Tom

 

:ack:

[jimoshel]

With the bed in place a paint gun will reach 6-10 inches, Either paint this area yourself and then put the bed back on or leave the bed loose and let the shop paint it, A body shop will take the box off only if you ask them to, and they charge for their time and trouble.

[ParadiseMJ]

I'm pondering this right now.

 

All the bed bolts are off as the PO had removed it and did not bolt it back down. I also need to know THAT process. My MJ is virtually rust free except for superficial stuff.

 

So far I've sanded and primed all I could but I'm (just for my own satisfaction) re-removing the bed. I was thinking I'd actually Herculine or POR15 the space between on both sides (with the bed off) and the frame rails for protection and then have the shop paint as far as they can for cosmetics.

 

Keep it up, share your results, I'll do the same.

[mjtjnj]

With the bed in place a paint gun will reach 6-10 inches, Either paint this area yourself and then put the bed back on or leave the bed loose and let the shop paint it, A body shop will take the box off only if you ask them to, and they charge for their time and trouble.

 

Any recommendations on rattle can brand of flat desert sand?

[jimoshel]

Engine enamel is a little tougher than regular paint. It doesn't come in as many colors. Other than that I couldn't recommend one over another. Might go down to some overpass and ask the taggers their recommendation.

[codybutz]

keep the bed unbolted, put blocks of wood on the frame to raise the bed up and back so that the bed hangs farther off the frame, then i ratchet strap or tie the bed in place like that for the trip to the paint shop. This was you can reach an arm and a paint gun between the cab and bed, which allows these areas to be painted with the rest of the truck and there is no extra work for the body shop. then when you get her back home just have a buddy carefully help you place the bed back and bolt it down after it has been all painted.

 

because the gas tank straps tie into the bed i made a temporary support for the gas tank during transport and until you get the bed back on. crawl under your truck and you'll really easily figure out what I'm talking about with that. - Cody

 

 

[swoop]

With the bed in place a paint gun will reach 6-10 inches, Either paint this area yourself and then put the bed back on or leave the bed loose and let the shop paint it, A body shop will take the box off only if you ask them to, and they charge for their time and trouble.

 

Any recommendations on rattle can brand of flat desert sand?

http://www.epaintstore.com/CAMOUFLAGE-P ... t-Tan.html this stuff works good

[MJ is dead]

Depending on the reputation of the body shop, you may HAVE to have the bed removed for paint.

 

A lot of shops are PPG (or whatever other brand of paint they use) certified and have to offer a lifetime guarantee on their paint jobs, otherwise their certifications can be up for review

 

Leaving the bed on does leave a risk of paint failure if they don't tape it off in some way. Because their sealer or basecoat may fail because the clearcoat hasn't been applied to all areas that the paint/sealer has, it may not seal correctly,therefore causing potential problems. If you plan on going with a single stage paint, you might be in the clear.

 

I would recommend using a nicer rattlecan, such as SEM or 3M. They are usually formulated for automotive applications, whereas krylon and rustoleum are more general purpose. But after rattlecanning it, tape it off with a soft line, and have it painted the color of your choice. And take your time in surface prep!!!

 

I've been painting for 4 years now, and I would not recommend anything other than removing the bed and painting the bed front and rear of a cab. Just for quality purposes. Since you already have the bed off, just leave it off, and the shop will take care of it.

 

If you're going for cheapo route, then do what you will, just my recomendations as an auto painter :thumbsup:

[mjtjnj]

I appreciate all the advice. I am going to spray paint it while it's off. I wanted to avoid taking it to the body shop (haven't even picked one yet) dismantled, or half dismantled. The only close color I could find at all of Autozone, Pep Boys, Home Depot, and Walmart, was Krylon "Camoflage" Khaki in ultra flat. That's pretty much what I want. So I'm going to spray a couple of coats on the bed front and cab rear, best that I can, and have the body shop more or less match it up. It may not be a perfect match, but it will be better than having maroon in there! Not going the cheapo route, but I'd prefer the truck be fully assembled and running before I drive it to the shop.

 

Thanks again!

Tom

[LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW]

 

[jpnjim]

I painted my wheels, some ammo cans, and a bunch of other misc stuff with the Camo paint.

 

So far, it's been pretty durable for a flat paint. :yes:

 

(tho it's hard to tell under all the crud in this pic :( )

 

 

As far as having a paint shop spray on flat paint, you'd have to talk to them (or "MJ is dead" since he chimed in on this thread :cheers: ), but I'm thinking a paint shop is going to want to go a base coat/clear coat, with the flattener being in the clear.

 

I've also heard of guys JUST spraying the base coat of a 2 stage system to get a flat,

but my understanding is all the UV protection is in the clear (I'm not a painter :dunno: )

 

MJ is dead, any special rules for a flat job?

Do you guys do them? Guarantee them?

[MJ is dead]

As a rule, you do have to throw flattening base in your clear. So most shops will probably do just that. However there are a variety of flat single stage paints out there.

 

Absolutley do not just have the basecoat sprayed on. Like you said all your protection comes in your clear.

 

Any more ?s lemme know

[dasbrick]

similar topic, but slightly off.

 

If I am in the rust belt, and it's bad on rust (thinking bolts are too), how can I get between the bed and the cab without taking the bed off?

 

I am leaning towards a generic Flat Black or Flat (something) anyways, spraycan/gun job. I did a decent one on my XJ.

[jpnjim]

You could probably test your patience by getting some sponge brushes, putting them on the end of a 2 foot section of 1/2" pipe, or broomstick, and try to POR-15 it.

 

The toughest part of painting like this would probably be surface prep.

There's no telling what wax, oil, or grime is in there,

most paints like to stick to a nice textured/lightly sanded, clean paint finish, or bare metal (in POR-15's case).

 

I guess you could try prepping it first with some kind of cleaner, or lacquer thinner (paging MJ is dead :D ) on the same type of brush,

but if the final finish doesn't adhere well, it's not going to offer much protection.

[MJ is dead]

It doesn't matter how well ya clean it, if it isn't scuffed/sanded, it isn't gonna stick.

 

Ok let me rephrase that. It isn't going to stick WELL. It will rub off, it will fall off, and most importantly, if you have any rust down there, you're only gonna cause more problems by covering it with paint.

 

sure you can use reducer or thinner to clean stuff, but I'd recommend an automotive wax and grease remover. Thinner and reducer can leave behind a film that can cause problems with adhesion. That's as far as paint is concerned. Just for taking grease off, use whatever ya want, just test it on a small area first to see if its gonna affect your paint

[jpnjim]

It doesn't matter how well ya clean it, if it isn't scuffed/sanded, it isn't gonna stick.

 

Ok let me rephrase that. It isn't going to stick WELL. It will rub off, it will fall off, and most importantly, if you have any rust down there, you're only gonna cause more problems by covering it with paint.

 

sure you can use reducer or thinner to clean stuff, but I'd recommend an automotive wax and grease remover. Thinner and reducer can leave behind a film that can cause problems with adhesion. That's as far as paint is concerned. Just for taking grease off, use whatever ya want, just test it on a small area first to see if its gonna affect your paint

 

 

:thumbsup:

 

Thanks!

[one_bad_MJ]

i got some masking tape some 3m red scuff pads and exterior house paint at walmart and rolled mine satin olive they have desert tan i did a vw gulf once it was a winter beater as long as the old paint is scuffed and cleaned the house paint will stick no problems and a pressure washer will not blow it off.

 

 

i have 20.00 into my paint job 9.99 into a gallon of paint 5.00 into rollers and 5.00 in a 6 pack

 

turned out real nice plus when rolling a vehicle there is no spray lines that you get from satin paint its all even and smooth looks real good.

[MJ is dead]

i got some masking tape some 3m red scuff pads and exterior house paint at walmart and rolled mine satin olive they have desert tan i did a vw gulf once it was a winter beater as long as the old paint is scuffed and cleaned the house paint will stick no problems and a pressure washer will not blow it off

 

i have 20.00 into my paint job 9.99 into a gallon of paint 5.00 into rollers and 5.00 in a 6 pack

 

turned out real nice plus when rolling a vehicle there is no spray lines that you get from satin paint its all even and smooth looks real good.

 

Alas...I have not yet mastered the...uh...redneck paintjob :rotf:

[dasbrick]

my xj got you beat. 10 cans of flat black spray from the department store, and a rustoleum trigger grip for 1.49 at a goodwill. WIN.

[wyk]

My MJ came pre-desert-tanned. They told me they used Krylon about 4 years ago:

 

 

 

It has a 2.5" lift and 265/70 truck tires at the moment. Soon they will be 31" traction tires.

 

I was considering doing the District 9 camo job on her: