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Axle Quuuziees


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I know it's depending on what you're going to do with the truck that will pick the axles and drive train for you. Well I'm planing on swaping to a diesel engine with high torque and go big, with a higher than average. So I was thinking of a 73-79 F250 with a D44 front and D60 rear swap, but... There's a cheap 79 F150 Custom in a lemon lot real close I could buy for the swap, I believe it has a Ford 9" rear and a D44 front. There's a couple things I'm wondering: :???: :???: :???:

 

Is the F150 Custom in the lot big enough for my needs~~??

What donor D60s are avalible for a front axle swap for my 92 MJ~~?? (or a good place to buy)

What other parts of the drive train can I get from a single donor~~?? (my trucks 2WD atm)

 

I would like to get D60s in front and rear, (Where's the best place to get that) I wouldn't need to be new, I will clean and paint them and rebuild them with upgrades, if needed. :brows:

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flex can be atrocious if you use anything but beat up rubber C-bushings.

the coil buckets don't line up quite right with the coils

the track bar hole in the axle likes to wallow out

the control arms hang down pretty bad

 

 

On the plus side there's no need for a swaybar. :D

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Thanks for taking your time and showing me the difference between the axles. :cheers: So I will go with my original plan with the 3/4 ton.

 

The 3/4 ton have D44 in front; does it sound good or should I go for a D60 front to match the rear? what's the pros and cons?

If I get a complete donor, would it be best to use it's drive train? What specific parts could I use? I'm new to this, but learning. I understand basic stuff atm. :smart:

 

Since I'm doing the high torque engine swap and spending a lot of time and money I want to do everything as close to perfect as I can, and get exactly what I need.

:hmm:

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Also~~ I'm going to take the frame to get powder coated. I'm thinking of other parts that I could do, like the axles. Are they worth it? or should I stick with a less expensive route? Basiclly will the axles last for years without breaking

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Also~~ I'm going to take the frame to get powder coated. I'm thinking of other parts that I could do, like the axles. Are they worth it? or should I stick with a less expensive route? Basiclly will the axles last for years without breaking

 

What frame are you powdercoating?

 

 

 

 

and powdercoating vs painting the axles probably won't make much difference in how long they last,

since surface rust usually isn't what kills axles.

 

POR-15 is tough as nails, and should be a durable axle paint if you want something very strong,

but most of us just hit them with some rattle can (satin) black, and then hit them again in a few years if they need a touch up.

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I'm thinking of other parts that I could do, like the axles. Are they worth it? or should I stick with a less expensive route? Basiclly will the axles last for years without breaking

 

 

How big are your tires going to be?

What type of wheeling will you do?

what's your budget look like?

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POR 15 is great stuff It is what i used to seal my floor pans, and paint my crossmember. The pros is that the stuff once it cures is incredibly strong and designed to go right over light rust. The cons is that you should only buy as much as you need at the time and use all that you get at once (plan as many things you can if you end up with extra paint) Once you put the lid back on you pretty much have to cut the lid open to get to it next time. Also do not get it on your skin as only time and abrasive scrubbing removes it. Also the basic POR 15 does not have any UV protection and is recommended to be top coated, or I think they have another product that is designed for areas that see daylight. Thats my $.02 :thumbsup:

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Once you put the lid back on you pretty much have to cut the lid open to get to it next time.

 

If you put plastic wrap under the lid, it comes right off. :D

 

FWIW, The last BRAND NEW, UNOPENED can I opened had the lid stuck on it. :headpop:

 

I had to completely destroy it to get it opened (inside-outed the inner lip).

 

First time that's ever happened to me with a new can,

I got 2 other cans from the same batch, hope I don't have the problem with those too :fs1:

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I'm thinking of other parts that I could do, like the axles. Are they worth it? or should I stick with a less expensive route? Basiclly will the axles last for years without breaking

 

 

How big are your tires going to be?

What type of wheeling will you do?

what's your budget look like?

Tires: Between 35-42", I want slightly larger than the basic 33s they everyone has.

Wheeling: I am going more woodsy to rock climbing rather than all out mudding. I wouldn't mind a little mudding. I'm not sure how big I will go, but I want to be well capable.

Budget: I don't want to go all out and order high end custom everything, but I would if I need it. I don't want to spend money and time on something that won't last. That's why I am considering the axles like d60s front and rear, possibly because they would last longer and I wouldn't break them and they would be strong enough for my needs. basically I want to complete at least the drive train excluding the clear coat paint and exterior body work, and excluding the engine swap for under 8-10 grand. before my wife gets back in 14 months.

 

So that means: Lift, Transfercase, Tires, Axles, Undercoating misc work painting coating, wheels, transmission, driveshafts, brakes, suspension, (and what ever else I need, idk all yet)

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you might want to finalize your tire choice. A dana 44 will work fine with 35s, a 60 is pretty much required for 42s.

 

have you looked at aftermarket axles yet?

No I haven't. Would that be my best option, since I want to go that way? Then I will finalize with d60s. I was thinking why not both from a donor 73-79 3/4 ton but after market are sounding better.

 

Can you share refrence material with me? link/web site or books to buy

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