comancheman Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 i just recently put a used motor in my 1990 mj pioneer 4.0. today was the day to find out if it ran. All connections have been made except for the o2 sensor and whatever the sensor is called that bolts to the bell housing of the tranny. When i crank it over there is no spark coming from the coil. there are 2 connectors that plug in to the base of the coil, power is getting to the coil via the wire labeled A on the 3 wire connector wich, according to my chilton manual runs from the ECU. any ideas??? thanks, Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 Yeah. That little sensor on the bellhousing. It is of the utmost importance to convincing the computer to creat a spark. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOMJ87 Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 Not exactly sure but if that one on the bellhousing is the crank position sensor it won't crank at all. That is what tells it when the #1 pistin is at TDC. Cole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comancheman Posted September 8, 2006 Author Share Posted September 8, 2006 I'm learnin guys bare with me :oops: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aemsee Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 Not exactly sure but if that one on the bellhousing is the crank position sensor it won't crank at all. That is what tells it when the #1 pistin is at TDC. Cole It will crank over w/out the crank sensor hooked up, but it won't run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 I'm learnin guys bare with me :oops: Don't sweat it, we all had to start at the beginning. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comancheman Posted September 8, 2006 Author Share Posted September 8, 2006 is there any thing special i should do when i put that sensor back on the bell housing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiatslug87 Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 Don't drop the bolts in the bell housing and you'll need a series of extensions and a universal joint socket extension. There are no "adjustments". Hope it runs for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 This should make your life a bit easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comancheman Posted September 8, 2006 Author Share Posted September 8, 2006 nice one Pete, will do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOMJ87 Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 Not exactly sure but if that one on the bellhousing is the crank position sensor it won't crank at all. That is what tells it when the #1 pistin is at TDC. Cole It will crank over w/out the crank sensor hooked up, but it won't run. Thats what i ment :oops: \ Cole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comancheman Posted September 9, 2006 Author Share Posted September 9, 2006 well now i have spark but no fuel, the fuelpump is working but for some reason fuel is not getting to the manifold. not all of my vacuum lines are conected due to my lack of an air box, could this be the reason? it runs but only when i pour gas down the throttle body which i discovered isnt a good thing to do when it backfired and my whole engine bay lit on fire (dad had a fit) o and while bolting the sensor to the tranny i dropped a bolt in the bell housing could any major damage be done? thanks tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aemsee Posted September 9, 2006 Share Posted September 9, 2006 Lets see, yes you definitly need to get the bolt out. Try removing the lower shild btwn the engine and tranny and see if you can fish it out. You NEED to do this. How do you know the pump is running? You will need to check fuel pressure at the rail with a guage, check to see if the injectors are pulsing if you do have pressure. If those are OK you will need to see what kind of volume you have. You also said you have alot of vacuum line off? You may have fuel being injected properly but with the vacuum leaks it could still be too lean to start a cold engine, which is why it runs with fuel being added. I would get all the connections made and double check that all the electrical connections are together. All the fuel testing stuff can be VERY dangerous, especially in someone elses garage! I would push it outside before doing any of the fuel pressure/ volume testing. What you really need is a knowledgeable friend to help you out. Last thing you want to do is burn up your truck after taking the time to put a new engine in it :wrench: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOMJ87 Posted September 9, 2006 Share Posted September 9, 2006 You can check to see if your injestors are spraying correctly with a timing light just hook it up like you would to check timing buut point it at an injector and you should see a mist it shouldnt be squrting. I did this on my 2.5 but its TBI so maybe someone can give you more details on this with a fuel rail. I would think if you just pulled the rail out and then hold it to the side and then try to crank it but i don't know for sure. Just throwing ideas out there. Cole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comancheman Posted September 9, 2006 Author Share Posted September 9, 2006 well today when i looked under my truck the bolt had fallen out because i hadent put the cover in yet any way so theres some good news. but as for the fuel i know the pump is running because i disconected the fuel line from the pump and cranked it and fuel came out, i thought maybe the fuel filter was clogged so i disconnected the line after the filter and there was fuel but i replaced it anyway. ther is no fuel where the fuel line connects to the rear of the intake manifold, when i disconnect that line it looks dry. i don't have a fuel pressure gauge, if i pressed the valve core (or atleast thats what it looks like) where u would attach the pressure tester, while someone cranked should fuel come out? then i would know it was a problem with either the vacuum lines or injectors. :nuts: sorry if this is confuzing to read. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comancheman Posted September 9, 2006 Author Share Posted September 9, 2006 also just found another disconnected connector its a two wire female square terminal connector its located right near the brake booster and runs toward where the wires go through the fire wall to the fuse block maybe this has something to do w/ the no fuel problem? i can't find it on my wiring diagram. i would apoligize for asking so many questions but its against the rules so instead ill just thank everyone for helping me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aemsee Posted September 10, 2006 Share Posted September 10, 2006 Yes, if you push the schrader valve while cranking fuel should come out. Do this with care and PLEASE wear eye protection. Better yet, disconnect the fuel line at the manifold and put it in a plastic bottle or something and have someone crank it. It should fill a 16 oz bottle in just a few seconds. Check to see if you may have pinched your fuel line closed somewhere underneath while jacking up your truck. That would explain fuel comingout of the filter but not making it to the engine. Good luck. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comancheman Posted September 11, 2006 Author Share Posted September 11, 2006 never mind the connector question its for the low washer fluid light if i had one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wanderin Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 never mind the connector question its for the low washer fluid light if i had one There was an option for one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted September 11, 2006 Share Posted September 11, 2006 in XJs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comancheman Posted September 12, 2006 Author Share Posted September 12, 2006 ok i think ive found the problem, kind of. On the three wire connector that connects to the fuel pump/sending unit there is a pink a black and an orange wire when i connect a test light to the orange wire while my brother cranks the light lights up, when i test the pink wire it lights up very but very dim, any ideas on what this means? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comancheman Posted September 12, 2006 Author Share Posted September 12, 2006 ok according to my chilton manual the wires are pink orange and black they are really white,orange and black w/ a red tracer the white one would be the dim one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comancheman Posted September 12, 2006 Author Share Posted September 12, 2006 white wire is fuel guage,low voltage. looks like a pump :headpop: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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