driverdave Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 Any tips for some one who hasn't sprayed a car yet? I bought a good compressor moisture trap, cup gun, I am a hose painter by trade and do spray but a car is different, no need to worry about taping most panels will be off and stripped so I can get inside outside all same color I will be paint factory style pin stripes in probably a flat black, the finish color is most likely going to be a 1969 Hemi-Orange so keeping with a Hemi paint scheme, down to 4 different orange colors to choose from. Should I paint the pin stripe first, it's the one the factory put on so its a wide pin stripe I guess. Should I use tape or vinyl ( like sign makes use) and I am adding the "pioneer" back on the lower rear fender. How many coats should I put on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbert001 Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 I am a professional automotive painter, so I know what I'm talking about. On your stripes, I would lay out a few coats of your stripe color, let it dry, then lay out your stripes with fine line tape, in whatever size you are shooting for, then spray your main color over top of it. Peel off your stripe tape carefully, then clearcoat the entire thing. When it comes to how many coats to lay out, I would spray enough coats till it looks covered, then give it one more nice wet coat, for good measure. I just painted mine last weekend. you can check it out under "small block ford MJ". Good luck, and take your time. you don't have to get coverage in one coat! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driverdave Posted June 19, 2009 Author Share Posted June 19, 2009 I am a professional automotive painter, so I know what I'm talking about. On your stripes, I would lay out a few coats of your stripe color, let it dry, then lay out your stripes with fine line tape, in whatever size you are shooting for, then spray your main color over top of it. Peel off your stripe tape carefully, then clearcoat the entire thing. When it comes to how many coats to lay out, I would spray enough coats till it looks covered, then give it one more nice wet coat, for good measure. I just painted mine last weekend. you can check it out under "small block ford MJ". Good luck, and take your time. you don't have to get coverage in one coat! Thanks I do have a junk fender to practice on I will take my time I want it to look good hopefully it comes out good or Macco it goes. I did look at your topic that came out real nice, can't wait to see it with the 302 in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbert001 Posted June 19, 2009 Share Posted June 19, 2009 I am a professional automotive painter, so I know what I'm talking about. On your stripes, I would lay out a few coats of your stripe color, let it dry, then lay out your stripes with fine line tape, in whatever size you are shooting for, then spray your main color over top of it. Peel off your stripe tape carefully, then clearcoat the entire thing. When it comes to how many coats to lay out, I would spray enough coats till it looks covered, then give it one more nice wet coat, for good measure. I just painted mine last weekend. you can check it out under "small block ford MJ". Good luck, and take your time. you don't have to get coverage in one coat! Thanks I do have a junk fender to practice on I will take my time I want it to look good hopefully it comes out good or Macco it goes. I did look at your topic that came out real nice, can't wait to see it with the 302 in it. Thanks bud! Just take your time, and there's no reason it shouldn't come out better than a maaco job! PM me if you have any questions when you get started! I'm happy to help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driverdave Posted June 19, 2009 Author Share Posted June 19, 2009 is it worth under coating the insides of the doors and fenders? I am priming them but after tossing and turning last night I don't know if it's worth it I could also rhino line it. What I mean by inside doors is not the interior but inside the window track area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
codybutz Posted June 20, 2009 Share Posted June 20, 2009 with the tape you lay for your stripes and masking windows etc. make sure when you peel it off make sure to pull it over itself and to take your time, if you just rip it off and the paint is still tacky it will come off with the tape. prep. is key, get yourself a good surface cleaner and a tack clothe to wipe all the dust off right before you spray. always spray to a wet edge, when you practice spraying on an extra fender, make sure to take note of how your gun and air pressure is set up, ever gun and compressor combo will spray different. i know i'm forgettin other helpful tips but, those are the ones that came to me right away Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driverdave Posted June 20, 2009 Author Share Posted June 20, 2009 with the tape you lay for your stripes and masking windows etc. make sure when you peel it off make sure to pull it over itself and to take your time, if you just rip it off and the paint is still tacky it will come off with the tape. prep. is key, get yourself a good surface cleaner and a tack clothe to wipe all the dust off right before you spray. always spray to a wet edge, when you practice spraying on an extra fender, make sure to take note of how your gun and air pressure is set up, ever gun and compressor combo will spray different. i know i'm forgettin other helpful tips but, those are the ones that came to me right away The taping part isnt a problem being a house painter I do use tape a lot , (I bought some nice 3m tape to work with) when I use oil based paints I know to take time to peel it. I just bought a new hvlp gun and new compressor so I will definitely practice and make note on pressure , my old compressor can't handle the hvlp the new one should be good, As soon as the rain stops around here I'm going to try it if I do a crappy job a friend that paints cars will help me next weekend, unfortunately he isnt much help explaining lol. I decided on using a gray primer and most likely a 1969 Hemi Orange, going to paint the junk fender and put it on the MJ to see how it looks. Once I do I will post pics, I'm using a 1 stage Dupont paint, since I'm not experienced with auto paint I don't want to mess with laying on a clear coat, probally going to let a pro clear the mj after I finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driverdave Posted June 20, 2009 Author Share Posted June 20, 2009 sprayed my test fender came out nice, some more work to do on the other fenders and they are ready for primer weatherr looking bad for the week so not painting until next weekend. sorry no pics forgot batteries again :wall: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driverdave Posted June 23, 2009 Author Share Posted June 23, 2009 I am now thinking about taking the bed off so I can paint the whole thing. Should I bother stripping the doors and hood to bare metal? All I have are electric power tools my air compressor isnt strong enough to run air tools continually. Should I just sand the clear coat or just scuff the parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 You can just scuff the doors to trim them out. I wouldnt take it all the way down to the metal. That adds alot of more work. You should remove the clear though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbert001 Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 You should remove the clear though. :no: :no: :no: :no: :no: The only reason to remove the clear is if it's peeling. if it's in decent shape, you can sand it lightly with 600, and paint over it. Any where you sand through the clear, should be primed. Any where you do body work, needs to be primed. If you are priming the whole truck, then just buzz over the whole thing with 240, and prime it. You don't need to remove the clear. The factory finish, unless it is letting go, has a stronger bond to the panel than whatever primer you are using. Only remove the finish where you are feathering out imperfections, or doing bodywork. Find the post called, New Paint? I did a pretty thorough write up on advice for painting in less than perfect situations/for your first time. Hopefully it'll help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driverdave Posted June 23, 2009 Author Share Posted June 23, 2009 You should remove the clear though. :no: :no: :no: :no: :no: The only reason to remove the clear is if it's peeling. if it's in decent shape, you can sand it lightly with 600, and paint over it. Any where you sand through the clear, should be primed. Any where you do body work, needs to be primed. If you are priming the whole truck, then just buzz over the whole thing with 240, and prime it. You don't need to remove the clear. The factory finish, unless it is letting go, has a stronger bond to the panel than whatever primer you are using. Only remove the finish where you are feathering out imperfections, or doing bodywork. Find the post called, New Paint? I did a pretty thorough write up on advice for painting in less than perfect situations/for your first time. Hopefully it'll help! Thanks that will save me a lot of work, I have to sand the roof clear is pealing bad but rest seems tight. Tomorrow weather permitting I'm making a temporary tarp garage hoping this dang rain stays away then I might get some thing done lol. Planning on priming/painting Sat morning ride my atv for a few hrs then install my 2 painted test color fenders and see how it looks. Since I am changing the color would you recommend removing the bed to paint the back of the cab and end of the bed? Time is on my side I havent been rushing any thing and if it gets on the road this year great if not next year is fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbert001 Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Depends on the color change. If you are going from red to black, then I would pull the bed. I was going to go with the white with black eliminator graphics, but didn't want to pull the bed, so she went red again. If you are going from one red to another red, then you should be fine not pulling the bed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbert001 Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Planning on priming/painting Sat morning I may be reading this wrong, but You don't want to paint right over top of your wet primer. You want to prime it, let it dry for at least 24 hours, then sand out all imperfections, and sand the entire surface smooth with 400-600, then paint it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87ComancheLB Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Hey Phil I'm also doing my own minor bodywork and also getting it ready for paint I saw this in my local area craiglist sounds like a good deal what do you think? Pretty cheap cost wise. http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/pts/1235141088.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbert001 Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Hey Phil I'm also doing my own minor bodywork and also getting it ready for paint I saw this in my local area craiglist sounds like a good deal what do you think? Pretty cheap cost wise.http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/pts/1235141088.html I'd be interested to see what kind of paintjob that'll get ya'. It may be a Maaco type deal, wherre they charge you extra for masking, extra for pulling mouldings, door handles, etc. I would say it's worth looking into though. With the automotive market as bad as it is right now, we may be surprised. they may do great work, and are just trying to get some work in the door. Who knows. Let us know what you come up with! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driverdave Posted June 24, 2009 Author Share Posted June 24, 2009 I was thinking about having Maco do the paint but lack of funds and truck not 100% ready for paint decided to do it my self. That craigs list add sounds like a decent deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philbert001 Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 I was thinking about having Maco do the paint but lack of funds and truck not 100% ready for paint decided to do it my self. That craigs list add sounds like a decent deal. Maaco is guaranteed to charge you way more than you are expecting to pay, and will still do a crappy job that won't last but a few years. You may do a $#!&ty job that won't last, but you will learn, and save money at the same time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 I was thinking about having Maco do the paint but lack of funds and truck not 100% ready for paint decided to do it my self. That craigs list add sounds like a decent deal. Maaco is guaranteed to charge you way more than you are expecting to pay, and will still do a crappy job that won't last but a few years. You may do a poo job that won't last, but you will learn, and save money at the same time! X 2 Better doing it yourself, and learning, and if it really a problem, you can do it over, and still come out ahead of what Maaco will nail you for a "paint" job :roll: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driverdave Posted June 25, 2009 Author Share Posted June 25, 2009 Planning on priming/painting Sat morning I may be reading this wrong, but You don't want to paint right over top of your wet primer. You want to prime it, let it dry for at least 24 hours, then sand out all imperfections, and sand the entire surface smooth with 400-600, then paint it. if you look a couple posts up on Monday I primed a test fender so one is ready for final paint, I know I need to let the primer dry about 24 hrs. I finally bought batteries :clapping: so pics later today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driverdave Posted June 25, 2009 Author Share Posted June 25, 2009 I was thinking about having Maco do the paint but lack of funds and truck not 100% ready for paint decided to do it my self. That craigs list add sounds like a decent deal. Maaco is guaranteed to charge you way more than you are expecting to pay, and will still do a crappy job that won't last but a few years. You may do a poo job that won't last, but you will learn, and save money at the same time! the bed I'm expecting to fall apart in a year or 2, its sides aree almost all bondo/glass, the cab should last a while not much bondo at all. Still a lot of work to do prep wise but today I'm spending the day on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driverdave Posted June 25, 2009 Author Share Posted June 25, 2009 pics and updates primer 1/2 done. http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=17152 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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