SuperWade2 Posted April 30, 2009 Share Posted April 30, 2009 Any Secret? Haven't looked real hard, but I got a set of the rebuilt Precision ones a while back, have the MJ in the garage this evening for the first time in a while and have been kind of neglecting it because of the Axle swap in the TJ. Thought maybe I'd toss them in after I get my kids to bed I still have the interior gutted and don't really have the leaks worked out. I'm pretty certain that the only way I'm going to get to the bottom of them is to pull the dash and get to the bare firewall on both sides. Maybe when/if I ever do an engine swap, I'll try to do it then. It's getting to be the "dry" season, so I have 4 or 5 months with very little rain anyhow. So I might toss the interior back in... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted April 30, 2009 Share Posted April 30, 2009 It's a very easy swap to do. I think hte biggest PITA that I found was the little wire clips that hold the electrical plugs on. If you have one of those curved, pointed "pick" tools it is much easier to get them off. I did it with a tiny screw driver, but it took a couple tries on each one. I lost a couple of the retainers, but it's no big deal...the plugs stay on anyway. Other than that, it's just disconnecting the fuel lines and unbolting the rail. You will probably want to have the fuel line quick disconnect o-ring replacement kits ready as it will be a good idea to do them while you have it apart. You can do the swap without taking the lines off, or the rail out, but it's much easier if you remove the rail completely. I also found it helpful to smear just a VERY little bit of grease on the new injector o-rings to make them slide back in the rail and head easier. Be careful not to get any grease over the ends of the injectors. I tried pushing the new ones in the head without the grease and ripped an o-ring, forcing me to take the whole thing back apart again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted April 30, 2009 Author Share Posted April 30, 2009 It's a very easy swap to do. I think hte biggest PITA that I found was the little wire clips that hold the electrical plugs on. If you have one of those curved, pointed "pick" tools it is much easier to get them off. I did it with a tiny screw driver, but it took a couple tries on each one. I lost a couple of the retainers, but it's no big deal...the plugs stay on anyway. Other than that, it's just disconnecting the fuel lines and unbolting the rail. You will probably want to have the fuel line quick disconnect o-ring replacement kits ready as it will be a good idea to do them while you have it apart. You can do the swap without taking the lines off, or the rail out, but it's much easier if you remove the rail completely. I also found it helpful to smear just a VERY little bit of grease on the new injector o-rings to make them slide back in the rail and head easier. Be careful not to get any grease over the ends of the injectors. I tried pushing the new ones in the head without the grease and ripped an o-ring, forcing me to take the whole thing back apart again. Thanks Brent... is there a Part # for the "fuel line quick disconnect o-ring replacement kits", or is this something I can get locally? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted April 30, 2009 Share Posted April 30, 2009 You should be able to get them at most good auto parts stores. I know NAPA carries them, and I believe Autozone has them in the "help" stuff. If you need the OE number, it is 83502745. They are typicaly about $17 each at the dealership. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddzz1 Posted April 30, 2009 Share Posted April 30, 2009 You should be able to get them at most good auto parts stores. I know NAPA carries them, and I believe Autozone has them in the "help" stuff. If you need the OE number, it is 83502745. They are typicaly about $17 each at the dealership. :eek: :eek: Thats more than the injectors cost :nuts: :rant: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted April 30, 2009 Share Posted April 30, 2009 You should be able to get them at most good auto parts stores. I know NAPA carries them, and I believe Autozone has them in the "help" stuff. If you need the OE number, it is 83502745. They are typicaly about $17 each at the dealership. :eek: :eek: Thats more than the injectors cost :nuts: :rant: You only need two kits...so it would be $34...but, you are almost right. The injectors are about $20 each when you break the price down :shake: :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddzz1 Posted April 30, 2009 Share Posted April 30, 2009 You should be able to get them at most good auto parts stores. I know NAPA carries them, and I believe Autozone has them in the "help" stuff. If you need the OE number, it is 83502745. They are typicaly about $17 each at the dealership. :eek: :eek: Thats more than the injectors cost :nuts: :rant: You only need two kits...so it would be $34...but, you are almost right. The injectors are about $20 each when you break the price down :shake: :thumbsup: OK. I thought it was $17 each, one for each injector. I will pick them up before i do mine then too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted April 30, 2009 Share Posted April 30, 2009 That's what I was afraid you were thinking. The injectors have new o-rings on them...you just need the ones where the fuel lines connect to the rail. The incoming line at the rear, and the return at the front of the rail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddzz1 Posted May 1, 2009 Share Posted May 1, 2009 That's what I was afraid you were thinking. The injectors have new o-rings on them...you just need the ones where the fuel lines connect to the rail. The incoming line at the rear, and the return at the front of the rail. Is there a part# Brent? or will they be in the help section? what size? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted May 1, 2009 Author Share Posted May 1, 2009 That's what I was afraid you were thinking. The injectors have new o-rings on them...you just need the ones where the fuel lines connect to the rail. The incoming line at the rear, and the return at the front of the rail. Is there a part# Brent? or will they be in the help section? what size? Maybe whenever I get off my butt to do this, I'll take some pics of the process for a real write up. I havn't found many pics, but maybe it's like the easiest thing on earth and I'm just a tard (No comments Wahoo or JT).... Got a few more issues on the TJ (thought I was done), so the MJ, like usual, takes a back seat... Sw2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted May 1, 2009 Share Posted May 1, 2009 Is there a part# Brent? or will they be in the help section? what size? From my previous post... ;) You should be able to get them at most good auto parts stores. I know NAPA carries them, and I believe Autozone has them in the "help" stuff. If you need the OE number, it is 83502745. They are typicaly about $17 each at the dealership. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddzz1 Posted May 1, 2009 Share Posted May 1, 2009 my bad, i thought that was the # for the disconnect. i should probally pay attention when i read :fool: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88XJSport Posted May 2, 2009 Share Posted May 2, 2009 The dealership tried to charge me $17 for one single o-ring. Anyways, I did not disco the quick disco's, I left it all attached, and the rail had enough play to pop out the old injectors and put the new ones in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted May 2, 2009 Share Posted May 2, 2009 Yea...you can do it without taking the fuel lines off...it's just easier to take the rail out and do it on a bench, especially for folks like me with back trouble. If they were asking $17 for a single o-ring, it must have been one of the injector o-rings. You can't buy singles for the quick disconnects at the dealership. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88XJSport Posted May 2, 2009 Share Posted May 2, 2009 Ya it was for the injectors. Turns out the parts house had 13 rings for 8 bucks... And yes after I did it, it would be much easier to remove the rail and install the new rings on the bench. It was tough to get the new injectors on the rail when it was in the engine bay. It would have been easier on the bench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bpm4x4 Posted May 24, 2009 Share Posted May 24, 2009 Just to update this topic a little, I just replaced all the o-rings on my 88 yesterday, I used the o-ring rail kit from Car quest (8.99) and it had all brown o-rings, I had to go back inot town to get the o-rings for the fuel lines and ended getting the o-rings at advance auto parts (o'riley's did not have them). I stopped at a hardware store and bought some for a faucet and was going to use them but then I stopped at advance. I will post up the dorman part numbers of the o-rings for the fuel line. One question I have, on the rear (main) fuel line connection to the rail, I could not get it together with the 2 o-rings and the plastic spacer, so I left one out. It does not leak so should I be concerned?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted May 24, 2009 Author Share Posted May 24, 2009 Just to update this topic a little, I just replaced all the o-rings on my 88 yesterday, I used the o-ring rail kit from Car quest (8.99) and it had all brown o-rings, I had to go back inot town to get the o-rings for the fuel lines and ended getting the o-rings at advance auto parts (o'riley's did not have them). I stopped at a hardware store and bought some for a faucet and was going to use them but then I stopped at advance. I will post up the dorman part numbers of the o-rings for the fuel line. One question I have, on the rear (main) fuel line connection to the rail, I could not get it together with the 2 o-rings and the plastic spacer, so I left one out. It does not leak so should I be concerned?? You got further than I did... I looked at it a little bit and this was right about whent the "losing interest" in my MJ happened...so they are sitting on the workbench still.. I don't have any of those autoparts places, so there is about 0% chance of me getting any of the right o-ings, and this would end up being a 2 week project because I'd have to order something online and I'd just get pissed and hate the MJ more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87ComancheLB Posted May 24, 2009 Share Posted May 24, 2009 Why not just buy one of these O-rings kits. I believe I paid $10 bucks on Ebay. Image Not Found Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted May 24, 2009 Author Share Posted May 24, 2009 Why not just buy one of these O-rings kits. I believe I paid $10 bucks on Ebay. Image Not Found Showoff It looks like they sell Metric and SAE, which am I going to use the most of? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted May 25, 2009 Share Posted May 25, 2009 All o-rings that come in contact with fuel need to be Buna-N/Nitrile or fuel resistance. If not you might burn it down... When doing this I also recommend replacing the o-rings and quick clips on the fuel line and pressure regulator.. :smart: http://www.rigidsteel.com/y97pC3tIGk0.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87ComancheLB Posted May 25, 2009 Share Posted May 25, 2009 Not showing off trying to help. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/407-Universal-Nitrile-O-ring-Engine-Repair-Service-Kit_W0QQitemZ270395998819QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Automotive_Tools?hash=item3ef4db8263&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A1171%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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