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just a few questions

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hey all..I'm new here and new to jeeps...I'm picking up an '89 Comanche short bed 4.0L very soon and just had a few questions...i have been surfing around trying to gain as much knowledge as i can..i plan on doing a SOA in the rear and I'm trading my buddy some audio components for 6" xj springs...i also plan on getting a drop pitman arm and new trac bar with relocation bracket...also an sye...i was just wondering if you guys think theres anything else i need...i have 33s now that i am going to throw on there after i lift it...I'm on a tight budget as I'm a college student but any suggestions are great :yes:

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Although it would be a good upgrade, a SYE is not needed.


Do not get a drop pitman arm. The drag link needs to be parallel to the track bar. With the drop pitman arm they will not be resulting in bad bump steer. On top of that, with the uni-body frame, a drop pitman arm, especially with 33s, can easily put enough torque on the steering box bolts to rip/crack the frame. Ditto track bar relocation bracket. If this is a drop bracket on the frame side, you would need to beef up the frame first. Using both might eliminate the bump steer problem, though.


I advice not changing anything on the steering other than having an alignment done after the lift. This is absolutely not optional.


Adjustable track bar

YJ front brake lines

95 Dakota rear brake hose

sway bar quick disconnects

adjustable upper and lower control arms

longer shocks (front can be Gabriel #81440 from Autozone with 2" extensions. Think I paid $15 per shock and $3.99 for the extensions. Rear depends on how you do your shock mounts with the SOA conversion)


A long arm kit would be nice, but adds to the cost and can be problematic to install as most (all?) are designed for a Cherokee frame which is not quite the same as a Comanche frame.


Good luck!

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SOA in the rear should work with 35s, but you may want to lower the bump stops so you can't stuff the tire into the top of the fender flares and/or break a leaf.


The front will be the problem. I currently run 6.25" of lift up front with 33x12.50 tires. At ride height the tire clears the back of the wheel well by 3/8". When I flex the suspension the tire moving up also moves forward, and hits the front of the wheel well. I will solve that (hopefully) by cutting off the front of the fenders flush with the bottom of the parking light/top of bumper. With 35" tires you may have to do some more drastic surgery.


33x10.50s can fit inside the wheel well, so none of this is needed, but I don't think they make 35x10.50.

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longer (adjustable) CA's will move the front axle forward a bit which will help recenter the axle under the wheelwells, but you'll need to cut to get full articulation in the front. I'm around 6" on 35X12.5's and have already chopped the front and rears of the fenders but still rub. Next step is to pull off the flares and cut along the flare line to open the fenders up fully.....



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Tight budgets and big tires don't generally go together. What are you doing for gearing? Or for axle strength?


Tell me about it. I have a 29 spline 8.25 sitting in my driveway, but no money to buy perches or shock mounts for it. have a new (stronger) shaft in the driver side front axle to replace the broken one, but don't have the money to buy a u-joint for the passenger side. So both halves are still sitting on my work table in the basement waiting on a u-joint.


Meanwhile I'm driving around and wheeling with 33s and front locker, weak 260 passenger side joint, stupid vacuum disco, and a (c clip, thankfully) D35 out back.


Any bets on what's the next thing to break? This weekend?

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