Spokes Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 does anyone know how to pull the wheel bearing race out of a 1990 comanche 4x4 4.0? pics and info would be great! thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpdocdave Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 front hub bearing is a sealed assembly. 36 mm axle nut, and remove the brakes. 12 point 13 mm socket needed for 3 bolts that hold the hub on from behind (axle shaft side) the hub assembly will be stuck in the knuckle pretty good. if its getting replaced don't worry about it, beat the piss out of it to remove it. if you're doing a ujoint or not replacing the hub, there's puller's you can purchase, or usually grab for free from the parts store loaner junk. or you can hit the mounting plate of the hub clockwise or counter clockwise to make it turn and it will eventually work its way out. do not hit the hub if you aren't replacing it. wait a minute...the question was the race? are we talking about the rear wheel bearing? if thats the case, there's a special adapter tool that works on a slide hammer. rear axle puller its called. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comancheman Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 most effective way for me to remove the unit bearing from the knuckle was to turn out the 3 13mm 12pt bolts a few turns put a socket on them and go to town with a monster hammer. i wasted a socket but the bearing wasnt moving any other way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpdocdave Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 most effective way for me to remove the unit bearing from the knuckle was to turn out the 3 13mm 12pt bolts a few turns put a socket on them and go to town with a monster hammer. i wasted a socket but the bearing wasnt moving any other way. lots of people do that and trash the bolts cuz they don't use a socket. then they're all pissed cuz those bolts are $13 ea from the dealer. i started keeping them after i heard people doing that. but i think i screwed up at first, i think he's talking rear wheel bearing races that are pressed into the rear axle. and you need the axle puller and slide hammer, or some real creative rigging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigd44889 Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 air chisle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeep_freek88 Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 front hub bearing is a sealed assembly. 36 mm axle nut, and remove the brakes. 12 point 13 mm socket needed for 3 bolts that hold the hub on from behind (axle shaft side) the hub assembly will be stuck in the knuckle pretty good. if its getting replaced don't worry about it, beat the piss out of it to remove it. if you're doing a ujoint or not replacing the hub, there's puller's you can purchase, or usually grab for free from the parts store loaner junk. or you can hit the mounting plate of the hub clockwise or counter clockwise to make it turn and it will eventually work its way out. do not hit the hub if you aren't replacing it. wait a minute...the question was the race? are we talking about the rear wheel bearing? if thats the case, there's a special adapter tool that works on a slide hammer. rear axle puller its called. ok the hub assembly.... yeah you could beat it untill your blue in the face, or when you take the three bolts out before you beat the crap out of it... just do this back the bolts out like 1/2 inch or less at a time and put an extension or block of wood or something inbetween the truck and the bolt; have a helper start the truck and SLOWLY CAREFULLY turn the wheel into the bolt the power of the pump will drive out the hub...... It works really slick, but be carefull the pump is powerful and can cause damage if your helper turns the wheele to far.... I know this because my helper was a very special person who couldn't follow instructions.... good luck. :popcorn: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 front hub bearing is a sealed assembly. 36 mm axle nut, and remove the brakes. 12 point 13 mm socket needed for 3 bolts that hold the hub on from behind (axle shaft side) the hub assembly will be stuck in the knuckle pretty good. if its getting replaced don't worry about it, beat the piss out of it to remove it. if you're doing a ujoint or not replacing the hub, there's puller's you can purchase, or usually grab for free from the parts store loaner junk. or you can hit the mounting plate of the hub clockwise or counter clockwise to make it turn and it will eventually work its way out. do not hit the hub if you aren't replacing it. wait a minute...the question was the race? are we talking about the rear wheel bearing? if thats the case, there's a special adapter tool that works on a slide hammer. rear axle puller its called. ok the hub assembly.... yeah you could beat it untill your blue in the face, or when you take the three bolts out before you beat the crap out of it... just do this back the bolts out like 1/2 inch or less at a time and put an extension or block of wood or something inbetween the truck and the bolt; have a helper start the truck and SLOWLY CAREFULLY turn the wheel into the bolt the power of the pump will drive out the hub...... It works really slick, but be carefull the pump is powerful and can cause damage if your helper turns the wheele to far.... I know this because my helper was a very special person who couldn't follow instructions.... good luck. :popcorn: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 DO NOT use a slide hammer. My dad bought one and thought it was a miracle, he got lucky the first few times he used it. First time I used it on an allegedly "good" bearing, the center pulled right out, effectively ruining the hub. Was not happy being out $105 for a new hub, especially since I was already replacing the other side hub. I would definitely go with the socket & turning wheel trick. I'd make sure the other wheel is off the ground, however. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpdocdave Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 DO NOT use a slide hammer. My dad bought one and thought it was a miracle, he got lucky the first few times he used it. First time I used it on an allegedly "good" bearing, the center pulled right out, effectively ruining the hub. Was not happy being out $105 for a new hub, especially since I was already replacing the other side hub. I would definitely go with the socket & turning wheel trick. I'd make sure the other wheel is off the ground, however. ya, slide hammer puller is for the rear bearing races. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted April 14, 2009 Share Posted April 14, 2009 FYI, the old style hub-bearing units use tapered bearings and are rebuildable. Quadratec sells (or used to sell) the parts. But ... by the time you've bought both the inner and outer bearings and the seals, you've nearly equaled the cost of a complete new unit bearing. It's just not worth the time and effort involved to save $5 or $10. And it requires a 12-ton hydraulic press to do the job. The newer style hubs are not rebuildable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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