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aftermarket tach suggestions?


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can anyone suggest a nice simple aftermarket tach, I don't want one that will go all the way up to 10000 Rpm and blind me with a 2 inch led telling me to shift. my gauge cluster just lacks a tach so i would like a simple one to put in.

specifications:

cheap without dipping into the realm of "crappy"

no chrome

self illuminated (stock green would be nice, maybe a dim dark blue like a lot of the new cars are coming with)

maybe 8000 rpm or whatever the stock tach has

something tastefully sized (I don't want a wall clock sitting on my dash, or wherever I decide to mount it, maybe stock gauge size)

 

I have been checking my summit catalog every time it comes in and see ones around 40 bucks all the way up to ridiculous money.

 

Thanks,

Jonathan

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I haven't hooked it up yet, but I picked up an Autometer Ultra Lite 3 3/8" tach. It goes to 10k rpm, but its pretty plain looking.

 

http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetai ... 139&sid=11

 

I actually, bought the whole series, tach, speedo, water temp, oil pressure, trans temp, volts, fuel level. I'll be making a custom dash in the near future.

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I think you have to switch the oil pressure sender as well to get the full gauge cluster to work. :thumbsup:

 

Not if all he's missing is the tach.

 

There were three clusters;

Speedo, Tach, Volt, Oil Pressure, Temp and Gas Gauges.

Speedo, Volt, Oil Pressure, Temp and Big Gas Gauges.

Speedo, Big Gas Gauge, and idiot lights.

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If you can't find a cluster with a factory tach, I used a Sun Super Tach from Auto Zone in my '88 MJ. IIRC it on;y cost $35. I just strapped it to the steering column at about the 10:30 position, so it's easy to see and read and I can still see the big gas gauge behind it. All the ones I found came with a shiny chrome bezel, so before I even installed it I masked out the lens and housing and sprayed the bezel with satin black paint. Looks much better, and isn't blinding when the sub shines from certain angles.

 

Sun also makes a "mini" 2-inch version of the same tach.

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"Speedo, Volt, Oil Pressure, Temp and Big Gas Gauges."

that is the gauge cluster I have. and even though gas level is an important piece of information to have I have no idea why they needed to make it as big as they did.

so I should be able to unplug this cluster and place in a cluster with a tach and everything should work? no need to replace sensors because they are already there. just have to make sure to be careful with the spedo cable.

There have also been threads about changing the odometer to match the old one. has anyone done this and is it hard? I just want to match the 2 gauge clusters and not take miles off because that would be shady.

I for some reason I can't do the cluster swap I was thinking about cutting the top of the cluster bezel and fit it a little recessed into the top right in between he two large gauges in the cluster right in the center.

 

Thanks for the help

Jonathan

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Yup, you can just switch them just fine.

 

As for your odometer, simply switch the speedo itself. The plastic on the front is just screwed on, and the gauges are screwed to the back. Take both speedos out and put your current one in the new cluster.

 

Only disadvantage to that is you don't get the tripometer that came with the full clusters. Unless, you already have one. I've never owned one like you have.

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Yup, you can just switch them just fine.

 

As for your odometer, simply switch the speedo itself. The plastic on the front is just screwed on, and the gauges are screwed to the back. Take both speedos out and put your current one in the new cluster.

 

Only disadvantage to that is you don't get the tripometer that came with the full clusters. Unless, you already have one. I've never owned one like you have.

His cluster should have the trip odometer. It was the idiot light clusters that didn't.

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If you are worried about the odo reading correct, there is a way to do it with some ingenuity... I know pics would help here but stick with me. When i first did the swap i tried rolling them back by hand (not smart). Turns out that on the backside of the odo there is this little wafer thing. I could best describe it as a very thin computer board. It has little holes that key up to metal spacer rings between each number. roll forward, they roll fine. Try to go back, and you break the wafer board and the whole thing free spins. Take the cluster apart, and remove the wafer board. Since you can get to this wafer, you should now be able to roll the digits to whatever you want, and re-install the wafer. If you break it like i did :fs1: , i cut the same size piece out of a plastic q tip box, cut slits into it, and install it in place of the wafer. Works great. :thumbsup:

 

Rob L.

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