Pressing out DC u joints

[james750]

Working on replacing all of my u joints in the front DS. I can't figure out how to get the Double cardan (CV) side joints out. I haven't tried yet, I have only looked at it to try and figure it out since all 4 ends are pressed in on both joints (confused about the side that bolts up because it has the piece that bolts to the yoke on 2 of the 4 ends, I guess those two aren't pressed in but I am not sure how to remove that yoke piece since it locks the joint in). Any advice? hope this makes sense.

 

-James :cheers:

[wolfpackjeeper]

I thought you just bought it as one piece, if not then it should press out just like the axle shafts. They press in both sides as well. You just go one direction, then the other.

[Geonovast]

For the record Double Cardan is not CV.. :smart:

 

Unfortunatly I do not know how to change them... only done rear shaft joints and wheel joints.

[james750]

For the record Double Cardan is not CV.. :smart:

 

Unfortunatly I do not know how to change them... only done rear shaft joints and wheel joints.

Yeah, I know it has a little bit of play making it not a constant velocity joint, such as a Rzeppa and a tripod style CV joint :smart: . However, it is referred to as a CV joint when talking about "CV" driveshafts because it is closer to a CV than a standard single Universal joint would be.

[Geonovast]

Perhaps, but CV joints were used on 84-86 front shafts instead of the Double Cardan. They mounted to the T-case with a flange instead of a yoke.

[mvusse]

Both my 87 MJ and 94 XJ have the double cardan joint, and IIRC when I was last under there, they also both bolt up to the transfer case with a flange and not a yoke. The only yoke is on the rear output shaft. The front drive shaft has a slip joint in the middle to make up for length differences due to suspension travel.

[wolfpackjeeper]

Both my 87 MJ and 94 XJ have the double cardan joint, and IIRC when I was last under there, they also both bolt up to the transfer case with a flange and not a yoke. The only yoke is on the rear output shaft. The front drive shaft has a slip joint in the middle to make up for length differences due to suspension travel.

 

not sure on the 87, but the 94 should bolt that double cardan up to a yolk on the TC. They all have done that since at least 1991. Unless stuff has been swapped out. This is why you can use the front DS on the rear with a hack and tap kit. (at least on a cherokee)

[james750]

Both my 87 MJ and 94 XJ have the double cardan joint, and IIRC when I was last under there, they also both bolt up to the transfer case with a flange and not a yoke. The only yoke is on the rear output shaft. The front drive shaft has a slip joint in the middle to make up for length differences due to suspension travel.

 

not sure on the 87, but the 94 should bolt that double cardan up to a yolk on the TC. They all have done that since at least 1991. Unless stuff has been swapped out. This is why you can use the front DS on the rear with a hack and tap kit. (at least on a cherokee)

You can't use a front DS on an MJ with hack and tap because the rear driveshaft is significantly longer than the front. I guess I will just play it by ear when I go down and just hope that I do it right.

[64 Cheyenne]

Is this what you are talking about? http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/drivesh ... haft-5.htm

[wolfpackjeeper]

yes, I knew I had seen it before, I never did mine, I happened upon a freshly rebuilt DS on a cherokee in the Junkyard.

 

And I am aware that the driveshaft on the comanche is longer than the cherokee. I mentioned it because that was how I knew it was a yolk not a flange on later models, not because I intended to try.

[Rockyrider367]

Yeah haha belive me they are not fun. you can just do it as if you were doing an axle shaft and just do one at a time. Getting them out you don't have to worrie about your u joints so just go ahead and beat those out and press the new ones in. I just did mine and once you break it down and do them one by one its not to bad.