replacing valve cover gasket

[Virginia]

I've taken the bolts out that hold it down but I can't get the cover off. Do I have to pry it or is there some hidden bolt I need to take out? I'm afraid to hit it too hard with my hammer. My haynes doesn't really show me how.

[Pete M]

If all the bolts are out (there's a tricky one at the back that has been known to throw Jeep owners for a loop), then it's likely just glued down from the silicone. Be careful when prying, don't pry too much in any one place or you might chip the aluminum. Go around it a little at a time. If you want to use a hammer, try putting a block of wood between the hammer and the cover to spread out the impact. You might be able to go around with a utility knife to help cut a little bit of the seal, but I'm not sure if I'm remembering the Jeep cover or another rig. :dunno:

[Virginia]

Tricky one in the back....does that mean it's on the very back next to the firewall?

[Pete M]

Yup, somewhere back there. It's been a few years, but I remember it being a pain to tighten back up because nothing lined up quite right..

[robfg67]

I had a total of 15 bolts holding down my I6 valve cover.

[Virginia]

I'll keep working

[Virginia]

OK, I found it. How in the bloody hell do you get to it??

[robfg67]

It's been a while since I changed mine. I have a very basic selection of wrenches, so it couldn't have been too difficult. Go small with a 1/4 drive or try going tall with extensions.

 

As far as separating the cover, Pete is right-go slow. I used a small pry bar and it came right off.

[Virginia]

Alright. That's done. I have one ....well two problems. The replacement bolt that autozone sold me is too short. Will it hurt anything to drive with on bolt on the rocker cover missing?

 

Second problem.

 

It

is

NASTY under that cover. Is there some way to clean the sludge out without doing a teardown? Some additive I can run through there? Several oil changes?

[Virginia]

Oh..and it runs with no obvious leaks.................yet.

[Randy in Maine]

Take the cover off and spray some Engine Degreaser in it. I like the Castrol Purple Stuff myself. Scrub it with a "parts cleaning brush" and dry it well with a hair dryer.

 

Use some Gum Out carb cleaner when you need something more. I can't remember if those are metric bolts or not, but Lowes has a pretty good assortment of both metric and SAE. Missing one bolt for now is not the engd of the world, but get one in there.

 

I used some Gum Out to clean the bolt holes and then dried them with compressed air. The gasket I used was cork and I set it in a thin bed of Hylomar to keep it in place. Use your "inch pound torque wrench" to tighten all of the bolts up to half torque and I used some locktite blue on the bolts. Then re-torque to the spec doing every other bolt to get it nice and even.

 

Be sure to clean out the vacuum line at the rear with Gum Out while you are doing it or the air filter will end up with oil in it.

[brdhntr]

for the cleaning job under the cover, i have used diesel fuel and a parts brush. then drain the oil and put a fresh filter and new oil in. if you want something that will work while you drive, i like seafoam straight in the crankcase. i think seafoam is the best thing since sliced bread. :clapping:

 

if you want to go cheap and really get it clean fast, pour 1 quart of diesel fuel in the crankcase and run it for a bit. drain it out and put fresh oil and filter in. you can do that a few times to get it clean.

 

you can go the other route and get a can of 5 minute motor flush. that's works ok to keep a clean engine clean. it's basically watered down diesel fuel.

 

if i get a new rig, i run a quart of the diesel fuel through it (let it run 10 minutes or so) when the motors hot. change the oil and add a bottle of seafoam. drive it like normal and change the oil at 2000 miles. i run a can in the crankcase every 3rd oil change. i change oil every 3 months or 2000 miles and that get's it run through about twice a year or so.

 

i also run a can in the gas every 3 months. i pour a can through the throttle body(or carb) once a year as well to keep all the carbon out of the top end.

 

try it it works. it also stabalizes the gas if you let the rig sit awhile. :thumbsup:

[Virginia]

Take the cover off and spray some Engine Degreaser in it. I like the Castrol Purple Stuff myself. Scrub it with a "parts cleaning brush" and dry it well with a hair dryer.

 

The top wasn't that dirty. The nasty was around the rocker arms. That's what needs to be cleaned.

 

Use some Gum Out carb cleaner when you need something more. I can't remember if those are metric bolts or not, but Lowes has a pretty good assortment of both metric and SAE. Missing one bolt for now is not the engd of the world, but get one in there.

 

The bolt is a SAE 1/4 30 that's about 1.5" long.

 

I used some Gum Out to clean the bolt holes and then dried them with compressed air. The gasket I used was cork and I set it in a thin bed of Hylomar to keep it in place.

 

I did that.

 

Use your "inch pound torque wrench" to tighten all of the bolts up to half torque and I used some locktite blue on the bolts. Then re-torque to the spec doing every other bolt to get it nice and even.

 

I used a torque wrench but I'm not sure it was working. The needle never moved and I got nervous so I hand tightened with a wrench holding it up around the socket end until i couldn't turn it with my left hand anymore.

 

Be sure to clean out the vacuum line at the rear with Gum Out while you are doing it or the air filter will end up with oil in it.

 

The air filter is saturated with oil. I had to change that and I did clean out the vacuum line along with the ccv tube.

[Randy in Maine]

Well just snug all of the bolts down evenly and try to sneak up on the torque spec (which is not really very much with a little bolt like that).

 

I would try to wipe or vacuum as much of that crud off the top of the head without crumbling it up a lot. The previous owner used cheap oil and filters or went to those lousy quickie lube places.

 

Consider using a better oil filter (I avoid Fram and use a NAPA Gold that is made by WIX) and a better oil. I use Mobil 1 10-30 or Brad Penn 10-30 myself and change it very 5K.

 

I have never used the Seafoam or put diesel fuel or auto transmission fluid in the oil prior to changing, but I know people do. Less viscosity or more detergent action to break up the crud. I would give that a try and see how much crud comes out.

 

I will bet the oil pan is alot worse.

[aemsee]

There is no "easy" way to effectively clean out a sludged up engine. All that crap you loosen up with seafoam, diesel fuel or tranny fluid will end up in the oil sump and oil filter. Once the filter is successfully plugged, it will go into bypass mode, and then all that crap will end up in the bearings. If it is running OK, leave it alone and just keep up on the oil changes, knowing that you should look for a different engine to swap in.