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Is it bad to invert leaves?


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I let mine invert themselves. Not much, but just a tad...

 

 

They WERE working great, until I bent a main. That had something to do with the pack fanning out because it had no clamps on it though...

 

I didn't want to thread jack.

 

The springs on my Yota are off some SUA truck, and when I flex, they become perfectly flat. I want to get more flex out, so I was gonna pull another leaf, but that'll invert em.

 

Is inverting springs bad?

 

If not, screw it, I'll trim the fenders up some more.

 

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I consider leaf springs to be an entirely rebuildable/disposable component. If they go flat, or get bent, it's just an oppertunity to try another combination of junkyard leaves.

 

 

 

That and my MJ does not see enough milage between 'being broken' for it to really matter.

 

 

 

And I'm itching to 4-link the rear. Or 1-link it. Or 3 link it. Or something involving links (or zero links... hmm).

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And I'm itching to 4-link the rear. Or 1-link it. Or 3 link it. Or something involving links (or zero links... hmm).

 

 

linking the rear is amazing. unless you wheel with a ton of stuff in the bed, it's impossible to get a leaf pack together that flexes well and controls axle wrap.

 

plus, you get a sweet departure angle!

bypassclawhammer89eg.md.jpg

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I let mine invert themselves. Not much, but just a tad...

 

 

They WERE working great, until I bent a main. That had something to do with the pack fanning out because it had no clamps on it though...

 

I didn't want to thread jack.

 

The springs on my Yota are off some SUA truck, and when I flex, they become perfectly flat. I want to get more flex out, so I was gonna pull another leaf, but that'll invert em.

 

Is inverting springs bad?

 

If not, screw it, I'll trim the fenders up some more.

 

 

Holy LONG shackles batman!!!! :eek: ;)

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That leaf pack is doomed. Look how flat it is before you wheel it. No arch at all :eek: Also I see a problem with axle wrap, especially with the longer shackles.

 

Like Brett all ready said contolling axle wrap with leaves, and having good flex is almost impossible

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To answer your question.. Link ends such as Johnny joints start at about 30 bucks a piece, and the price goes up from there. In order to make a stong link it needs to be at least 1/4" wall if not 3/8" DOM. I know ppl are going to say that you can use HREW or some othe kinds of tubing but DOM is the only way to go in my opinon. Then there are Coils/airshocks/ coil overs to think about. Air shocks are about 250 +/-, Coil overs are about the same, but then you have to figure out what coils you need, and that is where it can get pricey. Or lastly there is the captured coil setup, and that is just about finding a set of coils that work for you and building a good set-up, but thenb you need regular long travel shocks. So to answer your question... If your rig is all ready like mine.. it is going to cost me around 700-1000 to link my rear, depending on what kinda deals I find.

 

Keep in mind this is not including building the rear axle truss.

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When/if part of my suspension gives up the ghost, I'll let you know. :D Even my Rustys coils have held up great.:eek: I've thought about what I bring along (the 6th tire was just a fluke on that trip since I absentmindedly left the lock and chain for it back at camp) and there's really not much to be gained by leaving every single tool and spare part I have at camp (except I'd always have a spare tire). The vast majority of the weight comes from all the armor I've added on. As long as it fits inside one of the boxes, I find it hard to leave it behind. :shake: I am getting better though. Now I have 2 catagories:

-high probability it'd be needed on trail,

and:

-will most likely be needed back at camp because the repair is too involved and will likely take a back seat to just dragging the truck out.

Just to be proactive though, this summer I'll hopefully be swapping in that rust-free set of springs I picked up in Florida. jamminz.gif Michigan salt can kill a set of leafs on a stock rig with a blown engine.

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To me my essential trail items are...

 

Spare tire

Companion flange

drivesaft, and axle shaft u-joints.

Tools to change front axle shaft

Hi-lift jack

 

Since my rig is transported on a trailer.. all the other crap is kept in the tow rig, or the trailer. No need to weigh you rig down if it is more then a busted u-joint on the trail. Even then you still might need more support then you have on a off chamber situation.

 

Also most places I wheel my trailer is less then 20-30 minutes from where I am at, so if it is a catastrophic failure, or i need a tool or part, catch a ride out, get my tow rig, or part and be back within a Hour. Exceptions to this are Tellico, and other BLM places

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That's a key point. Most places I've gone, running back to camp wasn't really a desireable option or my MJ was what I drove there. Plus, I've had numerous things go wrong with my truck and not one has been the typical "wheeling breakage". Mostly just "old truck" problems. :cry:

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I'm with Pete...

 

 

Take EVERYTHING!

 

 

I wheel in some very remote areas (at times), sorta the places that it's an hour or two back to the FSR, and then an hour or two back to pavement, and then an hour or two back to a real town. If you've got to get dragged that whole way, or send somebody back for something, it sucks.

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I haven't had any real problems with the routine stuff (not on the trails at least). Failed relays, failed new water pumps, stuff like that can get really annoying cause there's not much you can do about it ahead of time. :headpop:

 

Plus, I carry some stuff that other Jeeps can use too. Ya never know the condition of strangers' Jeeps.

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Routine maintenance is key for any trail rig. I have yet to have a sensor/ routine maintenance item fail on anytrip. Everything that I have broken, has been axle shafts or worse

 

Since you said that, you'll probably have a sensor fail next trip, or that's just how my luck goes.

 

Last month, I wheeled the yj three weekends in a row. I was supposed to wheel the next two weekends, but on the third weekend, my radiator mounting strap broke on an uphill section and let the radiator fall into the fan. Sucked, but nothing I could really prepare for. Not bad for damage though in 7 days of hard wheeling.

 

Oh, and chances are those spring will be fine, you should see mine when it is flexed up :eek: but so far so good

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Remember on the renix style FI there are only 4 sensors that can make it run funky, and the on.y one you can't make it back w/o is a CPS. Places I wheel... Paragon.. even the most remote trail.. you are within radio/walking distance to the main road, and then only a short jump back to the staging area's. Crozet.. even though that place has some extremem obstacles.. at most you are a 20 minute walk to the patking area, and I have seen them drag rigs out w/o a front or rear axle in less then 2 hrs. Tellico.. well thats a place where you go prepared for anything. Oakridge.. wells thats another place where camp isnt to far away, but all the same best carry a few other things cause of others breaking

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I haven't had any real problems with the routine stuff (not on the trails at least). Failed relays, failed new water pumps, stuff like that can get really annoying cause there's not much you can do about it ahead of time. :headpop:

 

Plus, I carry some stuff that other Jeeps can use too. Ya never know the condition of strangers' Jeeps.

 

but your a sweetheart Pete, I would be the @$$ that would ask what was wrong and laugh and say "that sux", then continue about my business...that's just how ppl roll in my area though lol!

 

just kidding, i'd elp if i knew how, or could lend a hand

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I haven't had any real problems with the routine stuff (not on the trails at least). Failed relays, failed new water pumps, stuff like that can get really annoying cause there's not much you can do about it ahead of time. :headpop:

 

Plus, I carry some stuff that other Jeeps can use too. Ya never know the condition of strangers' Jeeps.

 

like a floor jack, jack stands, and CO2...hehe

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I used to carry a complete steering setup, Spider gears, enough u-joints to change every one on my rig, upper and lower rad hoses, sepertine belt, LCA's, front driveshaft, unit bearing, and a alternator. That was for local trips.. for the ones that were over 20 miles... We had enough parts on my rig and on my buddys trailer that we could replace t-cases on the trail. In other words if we had a spare it went with us

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Holy LONG shackles batman!!!! :eek: ;)

 

The shackles are in there temporary till I have time to tub the fenders. Even with em I rub.

 

That leaf pack is doomed. Look how flat it is before you wheel it. No arch at all :eek: Also I see a problem with axle wrap, especially with the longer shackles.

 

Like Brett all ready said contolling axle wrap with leaves, and having good flex is almost impossible

 

That's full flex on a hill, they have a bit of arch at rest.

Sorry for the oversized pic, and, yes, one lug nut is missing, and the other is there, but for one reason or another looks completely missing.

 

Axle wrap's kinda bad on the pack, but they still don't flex well enough.

I'm hoping the added flex of removing another leaf will give me the traction to make up for the axle wrap. I'm also hoping that with the rear sitting lower, weight transfer will improve rear traction.

 

I consider leaf springs to be an entirely rebuildable/disposable component. If they go flat, or get bent, it's just an oppertunity to try another combination of junkyard leaves.

 

And I'm itching to 4-link the rear. Or 1-link it. Or 3 link it. Or something involving links (or zero links... hmm).

 

This pack I got from the trash pile at a suspension shop. I've got no idea what they came from. I know it's something that was SUA, with a centered center hole, and I think, judging by the width, they're off a 1/2 ton.

 

The plan is to link it when the MJ gets on the road. But also I need to get a less ticking motor in when the MJ gets on the road. Dunno which'll happen it first. Imagine the head being a sledge hammer, and the wall as my block. :wall:

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Making the front flex, while the rear is level is not maxing out your flex. You have to force the rear tire to stuff while forcing the front tire to raise. The type of flex I think you are talking about is RTI flex, which is pretty much useless on the trail

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