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Unless someone modified the firewall and swapped in a straight 6 4.0, you either have a 4 cylinder 2.5 (Throttle body injected) or a General Motors V6 2.8, which would be carburated.

 

The V6 is not considered a very desirable engine, as it makes no more power than the 2.5, while using a bunch more gas. A pretty popular swap for those is a 3.4 out of a Camaro.

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first off, welcome to the forum!!!!! :cheers:

 

well, to start, you need to find out everything you can about any mods that have been made to it. if it does have a 4.0, it's a swap. you'll want to go over things like the electrical to make sure the wiring isn't a hack job that's gona leave you stranded, or on fire, if a wire comes loose. then you want to check out the rest of the drivetrain to see what axels and ratios you have. you need to know the tranny and transfercase as well.

 

once you know everything about it, you can problem shoot things better. you can see how they adapted and hooked everything up. check the mounts and the linkage.

 

as far as the floor, let us know how bad it is (pic's). how well equipped are you as far as tools (welder, etc)? what kind of experience do you have? then we can tell you the best way to do it.

 

just let us know a little more and we'll be happy to help you out. :thumbsup:

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hmmmm and the plot thickens.... ya i already found that link its pretty helpful i was just wondering if there was a more detailed answer, but thanx. so now i'm gunna run outside and figure out which motor i really have.....thanx for the help so far.

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hmmmm and the plot thickens.... ya i already found that link its pretty helpful i was just wondering if there was a more detailed answer, but thanx. so now i'm gunna run outside and figure out which motor i really have.....thanx for the help so far.

Just look for the air cleaner,, the 2.8 V6 is on top of the engine.. The 4.0 I6 is on the left front behind the headlight. You'll see a longggg valve cover on top with the 4.0 the 2.8 will have two valve covers on each side of the carb.

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ok i just got the title and found out its actually a 1987 with the 4.0 and 5 speed, does this make more sense now? i've readon this site there were two versions of the 5 speed trans one being better than the other could somebody go into a little detail as to why and not just an answer like...." its not worth the price of trans fluid you put in it" thanx again guys

 

 

as far as the floor problem goes, no pictures right now but the drivers side will need to be completely replaced. as far as replacing it it should not be a problem i got my ase cert in autobody when i was away at school. and as far as the welding goes, i'm a welder by trade with most my own equipment in the garage. i just need to know where i can find a replacement floorpan for less then 100 bones. thanx guys

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Yes, the 4.0 was available in 87 and is a very good engine, nearly indestructible. I remember a few posts on here a long time ago on floor boards. I believe they were meant for an XJ, but fit MJs with minor modifications. I'll see if I can find it.

 

As far as transmission options, the 4.0 came with either the Aisin Warner AW4 automatic, Aisin AX15 5 speed stick (good) or Peugeot BA10/5 (bad).

 

Since the AX15 did not appear until mid 1989, you most likely have the Peugeot. Then again, after 21 years, some parts may not be stock any more.

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haha. i'm on the northside of the chicago.

 

ya i found all the threads on xj floor pans but i was wondering if anybody has found a pace to get mj pans from that way it would be less of a pain in my @$$.

 

i'm gunna crawl back under it once i warm up and see what trans is actaully in it, what should i be looking for when i'm under there? i.e. trans id tag and t- case id tags? thanx again guys

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yep i hav the NP231 t-case. i couldnt find a tag on the trans anywhere. is there anywhere else on the truck that would say? could i look it up according to the vin?

 

since i plan on going with a 4.5" lift, has anybody used a certain brand they liked? I have a RE 4.5 on my xj and i like it just was kinda pricey.

 

also i have read that i won't need a sye kit for the 4.5" on the mj, like i did on my xj, could somebody elaborate as to why this might be?

 

i'll try and get some pictures up tom since i'm sure everybody would much rather answer questions when theres a picture attached of the truck. thanx again guys

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welcome to the club...stay away from the tan couch in the corner, and you have to buy us all the first round :cheers:

 

Difference on the trannies is pretty straightforward looking at them. If yours has a clamshell casing and has an obvious center rib running the length of the body with a bunch of bolts on it, it's a BA10/5 (bad). If you don't see the center rib but rather three seperate sections bolted together lengthwise, it's an AX15 (good). I'm sure someone will post up good pics of what I'm describing....I just don't have any readily available.

 

SYE's aren't really needed for driveshaft vibes on MJ's due to the longer wheelbase and subsequently longer rear driveshaft length. You can more than certainly install an SYE to gain the advantage of a sealed output on the TC, but it's not necessary like it is on a XJ/YJ/TJ. You could run a later model 231 TC and get the same benefit of the sealed output, but you'll still have the slipyoke versus the fixed yoke. All depends on what you want to spend your $$$ on.

 

Jeff

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For lifts I like Motion Offroad. Superb customer service, good quality products (both their own brand and others they carry) and one of very few companies that produce MJ specific rear lift springs. They are not cheap, but you get what you pay for. I have heard that RE is also quite good.

 

No personal experience, but have heard from quite a few people on here to stay far far away from Rusty's.

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