Leaf Spring Retainer Issue

[flint54]

I recently bought a pair of five leaf rear springs from a junkyard Comanche, but they

were missing the bolts at the U-shape retainers. I separated the packs, cleaned

then up, and reassembled them with new nylon chafe shims. The holes in the retainers

take a 3/8" bolt, but for the life of me I cannot install new bolts, even with clamping

the springs tightly together. Best I can get is half a hole off. These retainers merely

keep the springs parallel and don't carry load, but the bolts should fit without hard

interference. What am I doing wrong? I am certain the leafs are assembled in the

correct order and orientation. Here's an image:

 

Image Not Found

[Pete M]

I ran into a similar issue (one more leaf than stock) and I believe I just used a slightly thinner grade 8 bolt. Not perfect but it got the job done. :D

[mvusse]

Is it possible one of the leafs was added and is not original? That being why the bolt was missing in the first place?

 

I'm pretty sure in a stock spring pack, there's a sleeve around the bolt to make sure the bolt can be tightened without risking the ends of the clamp being bent inwards. if the bolt doesn't even fit without a sleeve, I'm guessing there's one more leaf than there's supposed to be.

[flint54]

I suppose anything is possible, but based on the the surface wear patterns amongst the leafs, and based on way the center bolt was rust-welded to all five leafs, I'm pretty confident thay are all original, or perhaps a "long, long, ago" addition. It was a real barrel of fun to drill out. Looking at the four leaf pack on my original (never molested) installation, I now notice the sleeve you're mentioning, although it's rusted to a state of virtual "gone-ness". I think Pete's idea of downsizing the bolt diameter, coupled with your sleeve observation, are going to be the way to go. I'm thinking a 5/16" OD sleeve to the outside faces of the retainer, with a 1/4" grade 8 bolt will do it. I'm also thinking I'll deal with this after the springs are installed so the vehicle weight is bearing and helping hold the pack tight. Thanks!

[JOMJ87]

One thing to add though.. It kinda looks like the one side of the u is bent away from the pack. If this is true then it will not line up. I had this issue on mine at one time. A BFHammer will help is this is the case but don't get crazy.

 

Cole

[Eagle]

What about filing/grinding the hole to be slightly oblong? Extent it up toward the top of the retainer arms just a small amount. That should allow you to get a bolt in and still have enough material to keep things together.

 

I agree with the guess that there's an added leaf. I've looked at the stock 4-leaf springs with the idea of doing an AAL, and the stock ones I have here have a sleeve on the bolt, AND a gap between the sleeve and the top surface of the main leaf.

[Pete M]

Do you have a side shot or an underside shot showing all the ends of the leafs?

[aemsee]

How thick are the replacement shims you put in?

[TNT]

You could do what a some spring makers do, get rid of the bolt and use a BFH to hammer the tabs over so they just bend over the top of them spring pack. Just use another c-clamp to to hold the sides of the retainer tight to the springs.

 

In the picture the spring wrap is bent outward and needs to be bent tight to the spring to keep the leafs from spreading out.

 

My fix would be to cut the retainer at the middle of the bolt hole then weld and flat stock on to extend them. Then I would use so a 3/8" bolt with 2.5" long sleeve and leave about 3/4" space between the main leaf and spacer. I have found this works out good for me. It improves my flex and wheel hop hasn't been an issue.

[flint54]

After a more thorough exam, I now also conclude that this pack has an added, non-standard leaf. Check out this image that shows the leaf next to the main leaf. Notice that the end is square and rough, not tapered like the original ends, and notice also the slight gouging of the main leaf. I'm going to take it out, grind an underside taper so it mates without further gouging, and hope the main leaf isn't adversely weakened already. I'm also going to learn to ask better questions before buying used parts long distance. I asked for "MJ five leaf springs" instead of asking for "MJ original five leaf springs". Lesson learned. The new shims are same thickness as the originals, about 0.090.

 

 

[Eagle]

Yep. Looks a lot like a home-brewed AAL. I wonder if the extra leaf is an MJ main leaf or an XJ main leaf. When you had the springs apart, did the leaves all seem to have pretty much the same arch?

 

I agree on taking it apart and smoothing out the upper edge where the AAL rubs the main leaf. You want that edge to be smooth and slightly beveled or rounded so it doesn't gouge the main leaf.

 

As to asking better questions: I don't fault you. I fault the seller, for not being up front that these were not factory 5-leaf springs. If I were selling them, I would be very open about exactly what they were and how they got the way they are. There's a difference (IMHO) between an "MJ 5-leaf spring" and a "5-leaf spring I took out of an MJ."

[mvusse]

And that's assuming the seller knew. If he was not the original owner, who knows?

[flint54]

Source was a JY in CA that has quite a few MJ's, but I won't speculate on whether or not they knew the difference. The price was right ($50 for the pair). The added leaf has a slightly steeper arch than the main leaf, without bolting them together, there's about 1/2" gap at the center - not much different. My original objective, a stiffer backside, will still be met. And, I'm trusting that none of you will ever tell.